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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2009, 05:42 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Bogie is an example of an "old fart" whose experience has led to some good knowledge.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2009, 07:42 PM
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go fast, turn left!
 
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Since we're talking about fasteners a bit, do any of you guys wirelock your fasteners? I have spent many hours wirelocking on aircraft and it works great. Do the heat cycles make this not such a great option? The only downside is you have to redo it if they loosen, but they shouldnt move.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2009, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speede5
Since we're talking about fasteners a bit, do any of you guys wirelock your fasteners? I have spent many hours wirelocking on aircraft and it works great. Do the heat cycles make this not such a great option? The only downside is you have to redo it if they loosen, but they shouldnt move.
OMG another airplane guy.

Yes it works well, after-all it's the heating and cooling cycles that push them backwards till they loosen. So if they can't turn, that stops 'em coming loose. NASCAR and other racing venues require header bolts be safety wired, ARP sells a NASCAR approved bolt already drilled for safety wire, see http://www.arp-bolts.com/catalog/Catalog.html

There's also a gadget out there that uses a cam shaped piece of metal that engages a custom headed bolt on one end and rests against the header tube at the other, all retained with an E-clip. These work well, but are pricey at around 50 bucks U.S.

For my street engines I just use the combo's I mentioned and tighten 'em up when-ever they need it. I guess mostly because street headers are often in tight places where just getting to the bolt head can be a real challenge. The long term lesson has been that a set of headers when put on the engine before it's installed can prove to be impossible to get at once the heater box, A/C compressor, power steering pump, steering shaft, and other interesting pieces get mounted. The variation in bolt types that allow you to get at them also makes it a lot easier to remove and replace the headers as the exhaust system needs work. I did a lot of that on my S10/15 conversions before it came to me to put a piece of flex in there to decouple the engine and chassis movements. My personal truck was pretty brutal in that regard since the body is fastened to the frame thru solid aluminum pucks instead of rubber and the engine/transmission is rubber mounted. So it went thru a period where it really pulled the Sandersons apart every few months.

Bogie
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2009, 07:29 AM
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The hp difference between manifolds and headers depends greatly on the engine setup. On stock engine, then there isn't that much difference in max power. However, big cams, more compression, bigger intakes, et, then the difference can be 80+hp.
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Old 03-27-2009, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 454C10
The hp difference between manifolds and headers depends greatly on the engine setup. On stock engine, then there isn't that much difference in max power. However, big cams, more compression, bigger intakes, et, then the difference can be 80+hp.
80+ hp? Wow, that's seems like alot. BTW, my heads are 3986336's (1971 350 76 cc chambers according to Mortec), the cam specs are 288 degrees adv duration, .480" lift. Sorry, that is all I have for info on the cam. The intake is a Weiand team G.

Bogie, you are right about the mismatched parts (carb, intake, compression too high), but it's what I had left in the shed and decided to slap it all together anyways and hope for the best. Having said that, maybe I just answered my initial question! However, I'd still hate to give up hp by using exhaust manifolds.

I really like the ones posted by slate84, does anyone know who makes those?
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2009, 09:06 AM
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http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ase/index.html

check this out.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2009, 11:25 AM
mrl mrl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 454C10
Great article, thanks. I guess I'll get headers.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2009, 01:08 PM
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Attachment Gadgets

Bogie -- The gadget you mention in your post is a "Stage 8" fastener. FWIW, I have used them on a couple of engines (I'm not a pro, just a hobbiest) and been absolutly satisfied. As you say, they are expensive, but if you need a longer screw for a particular location (A/C bracket, maybe) they'll happily exchange with you through the mail. Seems like a pretty-much user-friendly company. I think they are located in San Rafael, which is in Marin county, just a little north of the Golden Gate. BTW, Bogie, I always enjoy your posts. You bring a lot of wisdom and patience to this forum. Thank you for that.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2009, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PatM
Bogie ..... I think they are located in San Rafael, which is in Marin county, just a little north of the Golden Gate. BTW, Bogie, I always enjoy your posts. You bring a lot of wisdom and patience to this forum. Thank you for that.
Thanks for the kind words.

Marin county a little north of the Golden Gate. Ahhh, wine tasting, beautiful mountain to seashore vistas, redwoods, clean ocean air, next bed and breakfast better than the one you just passed. What a way to buy bolts!


Bogie
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2009, 08:01 PM
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The trick to eliminating header gasket leakage is the tightening routine. I run huggers on my small block and have never had a leak after following this tightening procedure. After installing any headers the trick is to re tighten (check) them once a week for the first month. They will eventually snug up and should seal perfectly without further leakage. This has always worked in my experience with sbc's regardless of build. As the heat shrinks the gasket from a new installation, checking the bolt tightening weekly for the first month should prevent gasket burnout. Of course use quality materials at all times for best results!
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2013, 09:24 AM
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oh hell, worth a bump.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2013, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slate84 View Post
maybe look at these
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small-...ders,3818.html
i'm doing a small block into an 84 rx7, talk about tight, these quasi long tubes fit tight to the block and clear the stearing box on the drivers side. about the tightest fitting ive seen and affordable at <$180 shipped.


not my car but the guy who suggested them. (big deal in the fbv8 community)
Has this been confirmed that these headers will fit the RX7 chassis?
Interesting
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2013, 09:55 PM
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headers into a turbo Vs ram horns?
we all know which works better,,,

v-8 RX-7? why? a"P" port turbo makes a lot of power
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2013, 10:01 PM
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I would be more concerned with a single plane and a 5500rpm shift point then the bh vs RH choice....
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2013, 10:22 PM
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single plane/dual plane

Quote:
Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
I would be more concerned with a single plane and a 5500rpm shift point then the bh vs RH choice....
I shift at 6k with a single plane,,,

I personally prefer single planes for myself,though I recommend dual planes for most everyone else
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