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Old 12-28-2011, 07:38 PM
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Rambler rides again!

howdy folks,i could use some input for a project i have in mind.I have a 1969 Rambler that has a unitized body,i want to put a full frame under it and wondering how to attach the two together,thank you

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Old 12-28-2011, 08:12 PM
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Check out what American LT1 did.. diffrent year, same idea. In short, the floor structure needs to be removed, and build an entirely new frame for the car..

This isn't some kind of, " cut here, insert S10 chassis " kind of deal
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Old 12-31-2011, 10:36 AM
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Why attach a full frame under it? You might be better off to make or buy "sub frame connectors" and add those. That will greatly strengthen the car to just about the same as having a full frame. Otherwise you would need to find or build a frame that would sit inside the existing sills, or under them (that would raise the body a good bit though). The only other solution is to cut the floor and existing sills out and strengthen the body/floor to sit on the frame as American LT1 did. LOTS of work!! You can buy "subframe" connectors from AMC vendors -- try www.americanpartsdepot.com or www.kennedyamerican.com.

Note that I put "subframe connectors" in quotes. Technically, a subframe is a section of frame that can be removed from a car, like 70s Camaros -- the front frame with the suspension unbolted and dropped out, but the rear part of the "frame" was unitized with the body. All unitized cars have SILLS in the front and back to carry the suspension with no connections between them. The center section of the car is supported mainly by the inner rockers. The front and rear sills are connected to the rockers by crossmembers and of course the floor, which is a stressed part of the body. It's just become common to call the front and rear sills "subframes" even though technically that's the wrong term.

Oh well, there's many examples of an incorrect term gaining common use for something else. Take "restoring" for example. A RESTORATION is something put back to it's original condition. I can't tell you how many times I've seen ads for "restored" cars that now have a 350 Chevy engine and trans in it (something like your Rambler). That's NOT restored... it's "fixed up", "modified", even "semi-restored" (say everything was near stock excpet the engine and trans), "resto-modded", etc., but it's NOT "restored"!!
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Old 01-02-2012, 06:05 PM
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Rambler rides again!

thank you for your responses,i've got my work cut out for me,still wish to procead with full frame project,was advised to read what Americans Lt1's rambler did,but couldn't find post,also to attach a 6 point roll cage and a straight axle in front,plus a 401, i figured a full frame is the way to go.this is my first unibody project,thank again and happy new year!
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Old 01-03-2012, 04:04 AM
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The unitized body is plenty strong, but do what you want. You would be further strengthening the body with the roll cage. With connectors and a roll cage there's no way you would twist the body even with a built 401. Without the cage there would be some body twist on hard launches just like any other, but with a cage tied in just right...

You needed to check the project journals, not posts!
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...63&action=view
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Old 01-04-2012, 12:26 AM
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Rambler rides again!

thank you Mr. Farna for your reply,oh i don't know what sills are under this car,this all came about when i went to jack up the car with a hydraulic jack under what looked like part of the frame and it squashed,i had to use a 2x4 to spread the load on the other side,next question,on my roll cage,where is the best points to attach it,also I'm putting a straight axle under it.Not only for the nostalgic look,but because to drop the pan you have to darn near pull the motor,all vehicles i've had in the past i could drop the pan with no problem. thank you again
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Old 01-04-2012, 09:20 AM
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If the pan dropped easily they must have been older cars... I don't know of many that have enough room to drop the oil pan without jacking the motor up at least. Can't in Falcons and early mustangs anyway. In the Rambler you have support the engine from the top (with a 4x4 or something across the fenders, padded of course), disconnect the motor mounts, and pull the four bolts holding the crossmemebr in. Don't have to disconnect the suspension or steering, the CM will drop a couple inches (might take some prying).

The sills are the "frame" members you speak of. Sounds like the bottoms (I bet on the front!) have rusted out. Car came from up north, maybe? If it's just the bottoms you can trim them back a bit and weld new bottoms in -- 18 gauge or thicker sheet metal (the whole body is 18 gauge). I've seen that on numerous early Mustangs.

Tie the roll cage in near the ends of the existing "frame" rails, and tie the rails together. The fronts don't align directly with the rear. Either angle the connectors or offset near the rear.

With rusted sill I do now see why you are considering a full frame. An easy way to build a frame, or rather strengthen the unitbody, would be to simply cut the bottom from all of the existing "frame" rails and weld rectangular or square tubing inside them If tubing can't be found that will fit, cut the bottom and one side out so that the existing "frame" is like a piece of angle iron. Run the tubing the entire length of the body under the floor, cut and angled or offset as a connector would be.
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Old 01-07-2012, 04:36 PM
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Rambler Rides Again!

Thank you mr. Farna for your post and reply .
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:54 AM
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Any time Rex! Keep us posted on your progress. I might have differing opinions about what you should do, but I'm interested in seeing what approach you decide to take and how it works. No matter what you do I'll try to post helpful advice/ideas. I'm pretty familiar with the structure of these cars, and if I can help your project succeed all the better!
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