Rapid Air system
I was at Menards last night looking at air compressors. I came across a brochure about Rapid Air system. Has anyone used this and what were your thoughts on it? I thought about using this when I get my sandblaster hooked up. Either its this or black iron pipes.
Black iron. It may take a little longer to hook up, but the iron pipe will help cool the air in the way to the outlet, which causes water to condense out. Be sure to run your air drops with condensate drains and you'll be fine.
I use it in our shop. Easy to run, nice to be able to use larger lines for volume. I would do it again. Several years, Zero problems.
One thing though, map out what you want. The more mistakes in mapping you have, the more you buy parts you don't need which add up
Was the price fairly decent?
It's been a while since I checked. It was a little pricy but when you start buying pipe fittings they add up more then you expect some times too. We used the 3/4" flexible line. We have several pices of equipment and we are running a water table which elevates with air. The 3/4 was nice for large volumes. Most peple don't need anywhere near that but the whole process was....easy. But...if you buy the wrong parts, then it can add up pretty quickly.
Just about everyone handles them anymore.
Prices on Menard website:
Rapidair 3/4 line $1.50 ft
type L copper 3/4 pipe $2.51 ft.
Rapidair 3/4" 90 elbow 18.99 each
Copper 3/4" elbow .89 each
Rapidair 3/4" male adapter $15.99 ea.
copper 3/4" male adapter $1.69 ea
50 ft run 4 - elbows, 4 male adapters
Rapidair = $177.06
type L copper = $135.82
No brainer for me, type L copper. Better heat transfer and nice straight runs. Parts for future modifications are available most anywhere, no need for another special fitting.
Sweat soldering is a very simple procedure, so don't let that stop you from using type L.
DO NOT consider type M copper.
Line size is determined by air requirement at each outlet, length of run, and number of fittings. The size of the tubing for volume in the system is so minimal as to not be perceivably different. If you want additional volume find a used air compressor that doesn't run on Craigslist and use the tank and relief valve from it for more capacity.
Thanks for the info everyone. Ill definitely do a little bit more research on the copper.
No matter which type material you decide to go with the design of the piping is a very important part of the outcome.
There are a number of diagrams on the web from Paint gun manufacturers that will help.
I have attached a link to the Sharpe website that shows a couple ways to go about it.
Yours won't be the same, but the basics will.
Budget a few more dollars now and you will be far happier with the finished product later on.
I prefer electric auto drains on compressors,as I am forgetful and it is all to easy to neglect that task.
Also an electric auto drain can be set to drain every few minutes if you wish.
At the end of the drip legs I have ball valves and when the wallet got thick enough I added on float type auto drains there also.
Leave extra room in your runs so that at a later date you can cut in filters,regulators, or whatever.
Never hurts to have the option.
Good luck, have fun, and sweat it! Sweat solder it that is :cool:
Air Piping Layout
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