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Old 04-12-2004, 11:23 AM
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Question RB's IFS anybody ever installed one??

I'm trying to find a reputable source for a mustang II ifs to install on my 54 chevy truck with a 350/350 drive train. I'm new to a project this old and ease of installation is a plus. I do have access to people who can weld and even a few friend who could help me line this thing up. I've read through alot of the threads here and most people are using Heidts or TCI or Fatman(sp). with mixed results. I am leaning towards TCI if I cant find somebody to recommend RB's Serious Hardware "bolt in" line of IFS. Any input would be great!!

M Jensen

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Old 04-13-2004, 05:00 PM
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I installed a Heidt's Mustang II Stage 2 IFS using tubular upper and lower (strutless) control arms. I was happy with that setup until I decided half way through my project to do a tilt front clip. Unfortunately Darwin's Theory came into play, the minute I changed one thing it affect something else. My frame flexed at the firewall because the fenders were no longer bolted to the firewall. And because I smoothed my firewall I didn't want to clutter it up with bracing the frame with a strut arm from the front of the frame to the firewall. I therefore decided to build an entirely new 2x4 frame with all new front end with Stage 3 components and Air Bags.
To make a long story short I have a Heidt's Stage 2 front crossmember with tubular upper & lower control arms, Mustang springs & BYG shocks for sale. NO SPINDLES, POWER RACK or BRAKE ROTORS in the sale. $500 USD plus shipping from Canada.
Attached is links to the frontend when it was a still a rolling chassis.
http://www.angelfire.com/super/1950b.../stude1011.jpg
http://www.angelfire.com/super/1950b...e/forsale.html
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Old 04-16-2004, 02:45 PM
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Thank for your input 1950Bulletnose sound like you have your hands full. The reason I'm leaning towards the RB's Obsolete ifs is that they offer a "bolt in" application and the power rack is not extra. The reason I asked my question is that I'm leery because of it's inexpensive price. do you get what you pay for in this instance? Or are they just trying to get thier product out there?? Right now the truck is undriveable, the motor mount is broken and it pulls the throttle when you apply brake. Imagine your tuck running up to 4000 rpm when you try to stop, I don't know which skid mark was bigger if you know what I mean.
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Old 04-16-2004, 07:56 PM
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Just my opinion

I wish that I could be more help to you about the Front suspension but I can only relate to your situation this way....
I ordered a bolt-in power brake assembly from RB's for two reasons. 1) it was less expensive that most and 2) I knew that I had to modify it to fit in a customer truck that nobody built a brake unit for. I was very dissapointed in what I recieved but considering that I needed to cut it up anyway I'll make it work. All I'm trying to say is, if their front end is made at the same place that makes their brake pedal assemblies, I wouldn't want one.

Another thing that I feel that i need to say is that I've installed IFS units from Fatman, Scotts, And Heidts and the only front end that I'll use in the future will be Heidts. I've never been dissapointed in anything that they have sent me and I can not say that about the others. In fact I will NEVER by another thing from Scotts nor will I waist my money on anything from Fatman.

So I think you see what my recomendation would be. Heidts all the way.
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Old 04-17-2004, 07:41 PM
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Thumbs up

I have been working on my first hot rod a 54 chev 350 700r4 and have had the same decisions.I tried to install a stock pinto cross member which is a mustang 2 That didnt work as the cross member was layers of sheet metal and a curse to work with.Option 2 was order a weld in front cross member from heidts and use my upper and lower control arms off the pinto also used pinto coils and pinto rack and pinion.The cross member was basically idiot proof to install.Basic welding no big deal and all my pinto stuff bolted right on.The only think you have to build properly are the strut rod brackets just add a couple of extra gussets.For me this way was cheaper than bying the whole front suspension.Hope this helps any more questions just post
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Old 04-18-2004, 10:10 AM
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I have a Heidts Must II in my car. They make quality products. I have installed about 10 Must II IFS, but I have no experience w/RB's.
Don
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Old 05-02-2004, 04:47 PM
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I have used a RB bolt in must II crossmember in my 50 chevy pick-up with no problems whatsoever. A good friend who builds street rods professionally looked at the set-up and was quite impressed. The only draw back that I found with the system is that is a little bulky compared to the weld in units. I am not sorry I used the componets from RB's, but on my next truck (and there WILL be a next one) I plan on using the Heidts weld-in unit. I also used the rear end mounting kit which corrects the factory flaw of the rear end being not centered in the wheel wheels.
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Old 05-05-2004, 05:06 AM
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headers??

I guess the next question is would the bolt in IFS interfere with headers?? I would like to use long tube headers and avoid going to the block huggers.
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Old 05-05-2004, 08:26 AM
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Do a search on this board. This topic has been covered in DEPTH!! Heidt's unit has quite a bit of bad press which appears to me to be deserved. I have said many times, I would never install anything but a stock Ford X-member (Pinto, MII, etc.). There is little problem with header interference as far as the front end goes, the only potential interference is the steering shaft but that can be handled pretty well with Borgeson U-joints & stub shafts. OF course, if you use fender-well headers, there is no problem at all. Here is a photo of fender-well headers with a stock MII X-member on a '42 Willys pickup and engine compartments don't get tighter than that!
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Old 05-05-2004, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Phat50chev
I have used a RB bolt in must II crossmember in my 50 chevy pick-up with no problems whatsoever. A good friend who builds street rods professionally looked at the set-up and was quite impressed. The only draw back that I found with the system is that is a little bulky compared to the weld in units. I am not sorry I used the componets from RB's, but on my next truck (and there WILL be a next one) I plan on using the Heidts weld-in unit. I also used the rear end mounting kit which corrects the factory flaw of the rear end being not centered in the wheel wheels.
It would really suprise me if there was a problem with clearance problems with the headers. I'm assuming that you are running a Chevy motor and the crossmember sits just below the front of the pan and damper pully.

Quote:
Originally posted by willys36@aol.com
Do a search on this board. This topic has been covered in DEPTH!! Heidt's unit has quite a bit of bad press which appears to me to be deserved. I have said many times, I would never install anything but a stock Ford X-member (Pinto, MII, etc.). There is little problem with header interference as far as the front end goes, the only potential interference is the steering shaft but that can be handled pretty well with Borgeson U-joints & stub shafts. OF course, if you use fender-well headers, there is no problem at all. Here is a photo of fender-well headers with a stock MII X-member on a '42 Willys pickup and engine compartments don't get tighter than that!
Willys,
I've read quite a few of your posts and you really seem to have your fact straight in most cases but I'm afraid that I am not aware of any problems with the Heidts Must. II kits if they are installed correctly. I have a great deal of respect for you and the rest of your opinions but I'm afraid that on this issue we will have to disagree. I know what you keep saying but I've installed many of these front ends including a few that I've designed from scratch and these cars have Thousands of trouble free miles on them. So I guess that we will have to agree to disagree
Walt

Last edited by walt; 05-05-2004 at 08:46 AM.
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Old 05-05-2004, 09:18 AM
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Well, I am admittedly just going off of second hand info since I have never installed a Heidt's but the evidence is pretty convincing. If you use strut rods with Heidt's it is probably OK but their economy X-member w/ strut rod eliminators is definitely deficient and needs some beefing up if it will definitely fail due to fatigue cracking. Just a bad mechanical design. See these references,

http://hotrodders.com/showthread.php...ghlight=heidts
http://hotrodders.com/showthread.php...ghlight=heidts

Here is a shot of the failure that has been reported several times on the Heidt's economy X-member using strut rod eliminators. The flexing of the unsupported wings of the member, in conjunction with the stress riser @ the bottom plate/side plate intersection and bolt hole guarantees that this fatigue fracture will happen eventually.



Recommended minimum upgrades to Heidt's X-member are shown in the last few photos here.

In the final analysis, I must defer to Ford's engineers over the back-yard engineers on this one. Too important a safety issue.

Last edited by willys36@aol.com; 05-05-2004 at 09:51 AM.
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Old 05-05-2004, 09:43 AM
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Willys
I am in total agreement about the strut rod eliminators. Even if the additional reinforcement is done, I'd still only use that setup on very light cars. Thank you for your honesty, Walt
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Old 05-05-2004, 11:03 AM
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I have used the Stock MII crossmembers a couple of times once in the 36 Pontiac and once in the 50 chef truck that I am doing. the 36 has around 40,000 trouble free miles. If someone wants a bolt in kit, I would go with the one from Chassis Engineering in Iowa. for the strut rod bracket, they have a brace going from the bracket on the frame to the crossmember very similar in design to the bracket that willys had on here a while back.

Off the subject, Walt saw the article on your car in Street Scene this month, a very good article.

Earl
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Old 05-05-2004, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by EBlack36
I have used the Stock MII crossmembers a couple of times once in the 36 Pontiac and once in the 50 chef truck that I am doing. the 36 has around 40,000 trouble free miles. If someone wants a bolt in kit, I would go with the one from Chassis Engineering in Iowa. for the strut rod bracket, they have a brace going from the bracket on the frame to the crossmember very similar in design to the bracket that willys had on here a while back.

Off the subject, Walt saw the article on your car in Street Scene this month, a very good article.

Earl
Cool!!! I haven't seen the magazine yet. Thanks for the heads up.
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