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Old 08-23-2008, 10:26 PM
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Re-assembly order?

Hello. Once I have my car all taken apart, Im planning on epoxying everything, and doing the body work and yada yada. But, Im not too sure about which order would be most efficient.

For example, should I primer the entire fender, then wet on wet paint the insiders of them? Door's, should again, should I paint the insides and jambs before I block out the primer surfacer?

I would think I would want to avoid sanding and possibly priming once I have painted surfaced on the car, wheather they be jambs or whatnot. But at the same time, something tells me I shouldn't be trying to get final fit on my doors, hood, fenders and trunk with the thing ready for paint incase I scratch/gouge something?

Iuno, those of you with experience Im sure could help me out alot. Thankyou.
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Old 08-23-2008, 10:55 PM
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All the fitting of the panels should be completed before disassembly. All blocking of the primer should be done before painting the jambs, since some re-priming is nearly a certainly. You can put a couple last coats of primer on the panels once you know they are straight, jamb the parts, and final block the exteriors once they are re-installed.

I usually just paint my completes all apart and then re-assemble them after painting. It's a tougher procedure in many ways, but the quality achieved can be exceptional. Probably not the best way to go if it's your first try, though.
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Old 08-23-2008, 11:05 PM
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How would you ensure panel fitment once removing them? I had all my gaps set up nicely, making sure I wasn't going to need to cut down or add any material to edges, and then I took the car apart. All my gaps are going to need to aligmnet again, no?

I was also wondering about just painting it in pieces. This is certanely not my first time painting, and Im fairly confident in my abilities (confident I'll have a couple f*ups, mind you ). As long as I keep my spraying and coats consistenet, I could probably paint everything off the car eh?
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Old 08-24-2008, 07:59 AM
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First strip all of the old paint off and get everything in a quality epoxy primer, then I do the mockup and testfitting and all of the blocking while assembled, then disassemble noting shim pack thicknesses at each location on paper and sometimes drill indexing holes. Then do any detail work in the jambs and prime one last time. Then sand the edges and jambs and paint those areas. Reassemble the car using the noted shim pack thicknesses and align everything well. Block it out one last time and shoot the exterior. What level of perfection are you trying to attain?-this will determine what proceedure you should use.

Here's a Camaro body during testfitting and doorskin installation:
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Old 08-24-2008, 08:38 AM
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95% chance the new door and trunk seals will change the alignments so some adjusting is needed....

to be in the ballpark immediately when re-assembling drill the hinges for a small locating screw before disassembly and/or "hidden" reference score/notch marks....

3+ layers of masking tape on the "cured" panels edges to prevent chipping if it does bump something....

a layer of (small) bubble wrap or towels or whatever to protect a flat area to sharp area meeting point

use way to long bolts just to get it in place quicker and easier, then swap in the correct bolts.....

depends on the door but a crudely shaped piece of rigid foam on your floor jack can help balance the door better.....
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Old 08-24-2008, 11:07 AM
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I've drilled one 1/8" index hole per hinge with the customer's permission, then use stainless rivets to fill the hole upon re-install. It doesn't look too bad, though not original of course. It's a fairly clean way to ensure good alignment with minimal fuss.
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Old 08-24-2008, 06:40 PM
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This index hole...is there two of them per hinge? If not, how do you ensure there is no tiliting of the piece while side-to-side movement is proper?


As for quality, Im going for the best I can do. Im not going for a perfect factory resto, I wan't it to be better than that. But as for things that are never going to be seen, I don't need smooth as glass clear and perfect 1/8th gaps all over. It is going to be my DD in the summer months (and when I can afford gas, lol).

Thanks alot for your guys help.
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Old 08-24-2008, 09:09 PM
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For the door hinges I rebuild them using pins that are retained with E clips, this way I can just pull the pins and reinstall them with perfect door alignment every time. The pin/bushing fit needs to be snug to limit wear and retain good alignment, any movement from sloppy bushings will just make it wear faster. For the factory correct restoration jobs I modify the pins so the E-clip slot is located just below the upper bushing-this way they are almost unoticeable. If you drill the indexing holes use two holes per hinge half-then you won't have any tilting of the hinge.
if you're doing doorskins take the time to fit the door shell frame to the car before installing the skin, then after the skin is installed fit the door assembly again before welding. Take your time and tune everything well and it will be miles ahead qualitywise.
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Old 08-25-2008, 01:09 AM
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Sorry, what do you mean by E-clip? Just something that goes through the pin to prevent it from sliding down?

I don't need to re-skin the doors, just have a fair bit of rust on the bottom inside edge I need to take care off.

Do you figure I should paint all the engine bay inners (fender supports, rad support etc.) black, paint the firewall body colour, than re-assemble the front end minus fenders and outer cosmetics? Than paint the front end pieces and bolt em on? I've seen other people spray the engine bay with it all together and the fenders on, but I don't want the inners to be outside colour. From the factory, the inners were black, so.

Aye, sorry for the lame questions, Im getting to the point where I will be ready to spray the inners pretty quick.

Thanks for all your help.
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Old 08-25-2008, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMM
Sorry, what do you mean by E-clip? Just something that goes through the pin to prevent it from sliding down?

I don't need to re-skin the doors, just have a fair bit of rust on the bottom inside edge I need to take care off.

Do you figure I should paint all the engine bay inners (fender supports, rad support etc.) black, paint the firewall body colour, than re-assemble the front end minus fenders and outer cosmetics? Than paint the front end pieces and bolt em on? I've seen other people spray the engine bay with it all together and the fenders on, but I don't want the inners to be outside colour. From the factory, the inners were black, so.

Aye, sorry for the lame questions, Im getting to the point where I will be ready to spray the inners pretty quick.

Thanks for all your help.
This is an interesting thread. I'm in the middle of a project myself and am reading to see what others do. Here is what I've done to-date (right or wrong!); after repairing the sheetmetal with new patches, I undercoated the bare truck cab, and painted the firewall while it was off the chassis. Re-installed the cab onto the chassis, installed the freshly painted inner fenders, rad support, and miscellaneous structure. I undercoated and finish-painted the hidden edges of the front fenders and other nose sheetmetal, then installed it all. I then adjusted (with a bfh, of course!) all the tin to get the proper gaps and alignment. I'll be starting the "bondo'ing" stage next onto the bare outer sheetmetal, then follow with prime and finish coats while it's all assembled. I plan to mask off anything that is not scheduled to receive primer/paint. I'll paint the inside of the doors while they are off the cab, and pray that I don't scratch em up upon assembly!

Painting all the parts while apart is probably ideal, after all the bondo work is done (to ensure good fit/finish). But I'm a clutz and know that I'd scratch the paint if I tried to assemble everything after it's been painted.

I look forward to more posts on this topic!

Antny
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Old 08-25-2008, 01:21 PM
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to paint the engine compartment black, you need to cover the rest of the car body (painted or in primer) with polyethlyene and/or paper and tape....aka:"bagging a car"

once the black is cured cover all of that black with poly so you can spray body color if you do want to do it in that order with the back painted fenders on the car ....

the "mechanic's" of the steps are pretty much just common sense....
................................................
door bottems rust from the inside out (to much crap and wet trapped for too long=perfect for rust to grow)...

to have a decent new paint life span on the doors that are showing rust on the outside ya gotta do everything you can to remove the rust (sandblast) and seal (epoxy and/or bedliner rattle can spray) the inside of the doors so O2 and H2O can not contact the steel .....

suggestion:
buy some how to books....
goooogle how to paint a car.....
read some in the Knowledge Base link under Exterior at the top of this page....
before you go further....
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Old 08-25-2008, 10:35 PM
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I've been learning as much as I can. I have a pretty good idea of how to do body work and paint, I do that for a living (apprentice level, however).

I've just never taken on a car by myself. Thanks for your tips.
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