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Old 09-18-2006, 09:27 AM
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re-coat time for B/C

I am painting a door for a '68 Mustang and I shot the base yesterday evening but I am going to have to re-coat it today due to coverage problems (Nason ). I know it is ok to shoot the clear in 24 hrs or less, even longer from what I have been told, but what about more base? Can it be sprayed without scuffing if it is within the same time window as the clear application? The tech sheet does not say it just says to allow at least 15 mins before clear and that is all it says about drying times.
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Old 09-18-2006, 09:56 AM
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Red, take a white or grey scuff pad, and quickly run over the door.. shouldnt take more than a few minutes at best.. tac rag it off, then spray one coat of your base, let that flash and add your clear today or tomorrow..

I use ppg or pro spray base.. If it were mine, I would tac it off and spray my clear... but then again I dont use any Dupont products and have absolutely no experience with them..

For what it is worth.. as long as the base has set inside a garage and not been in the elements.. it should not be affected and you should be able to spray your clear.. it should be able to set inside for months and be fine... I have my reasons for this logic, but there is already a thread about Dupont products and re coat times, and i honestly dont want to get into a spat with anyone regarding simple opinions..

Sorry Red, it seems my post is vague, but worst case, just scuff lightly and do as i told you in the first paragraph
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Old 09-18-2006, 11:35 AM
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Since this is just a door and not a large area it is not much of an issue but last year I had a problem that required sanding most of the car to re-coat and while working on this door I started to wonder if all that sanding last year was really necessary because it was only about 24 hrs old also. I had planed to wet sand with 600 like I did the other one but I had not thought about using a Grey pad, that's what I will do. Thanks
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Old 09-18-2006, 11:40 AM
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You'll be fine as is. Nason's good for 24 on the recoat. I've shot gallons of it.
Besides, I't's S-L-O-W to dry anyway and I've gone days in some cases.
Only time I'm concerned on the "window" is if I use catylist to lock it up better,that is when I scuff and rebase if out of my 24.
"If" you got some coverage problems that does not surprise me. Hehehe.
You can go either 1:1 or 2:1 and depending on color I adjust accordingly.
I actually end up splitting the difference generally and go 1.5:1 for most of their line.
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Old 09-18-2006, 12:35 PM
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Bee, You have me wondering about something else here, I aways use the activator (when I use Nason) because the spec sheet says that it is important that it be used and the base MUST be activated however the guy at the paint store says I am about the only one he knows that does this and most just skip the activator so just how important is this stuff? Seems most of these guys are spraying without it with no problems
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Old 09-18-2006, 03:31 PM
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It helps the paint crosslink better. In my case, I'm stacking graphics and what not on top and it provides a more solid foundation.Actually, I use the clear catylist as I'm shooting Nason clear as well instead. Most everyone I know who uses Nason does not use the "activator" either.I've discussed this with my paint supplier,who is VERY good,and he states it's not a requirement.
If I'm doing just a straight paint job,I won't use it.
Kinda your call red. If you feel you need it,then go with it,but IMO,it's not a requirement.
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