Should we Re-torque small block heads? Yes or NO
poncho62 said:They say with todays gasket materials, that it isn't necessary.......
Thanks for the PM- it also was a reminder about the poll. You know my position already, but I will add it to the poll just the same.Duntov said:A----------Some of the time
B -------------All of the time
C---Depends on who "They" are
curtis73 said:The first 20 or so engines that I built I retorqued only to find they were all in spec.
However... I have never built one with head gaskets that said to re-torque. I've always used Cometic, Fel-Pro and ROL - all of which were a one-torque type gasket.
Jake_Dragon said:Do you torque them to the full amount or do you stage it?
I torqued mine in 3 stages 30 - 45 - 65 and let them rest between stages.
I have had no problems at all.
Sounds silly, but I use teflon tape on my head bolts. An old engine builder told me this was the best method.Duntov said:We stage in a similar way as you do. Do you ever go back and check a couple hundred miles down the line?
I should have ask in the poll what thread dope people are using also. Thanks for the comment..........Duntov
I re-torque, because, I suppose repetition builds a false sense of security if for no other reason.Duntov said:Should we Re-torque small block heads? Yes or NO
It depends on the engine and what I have in my toolbox I almost always use teflon paste since it lubes well and seals pretty well. Its also pretty easy to clean up if you have to get back in there for repairs. I have used black RTV for more permanent applications, but it makes a rubbery mess in the threads.Duntov said:I've never heard anyone say that before.. So it brings up the question; "What kind of sealant did you use on the head bolts?"
Exactly Silverback!Silverback said:that seems like that is the real question, if you retorque what do you seal the headbolts that go into the coolant passages with that isn't going to leak when you retorque.
The problem with this question is that when you tighten a bolt and let it sit it "sticks" so you need a break away torque to overcome that before it will turn. If you just walk up to the engine with your clicker torque wrench set to the proper torque even if the gaskets did compress some, the break away torque will be high enough that you won't overcome the sticking and the wrench will click without tightening the bolts. The only way that you're going to tighten the bolts to the same torque setting is if you back them off first, then retorque.
:thumbup: :thumbup: DITTO ALL DAY LONG :thumbup: :thumbup:curtis73 said:It depends on the engine and what I have in my toolbox I almost always use teflon paste since it lubes well and seals pretty well. Its also pretty easy to clean up if you have to get back in there for repairs. I have used black RTV for more permanent applications, but it makes a rubbery mess in the threads.
I always torque in three steps: first by hand to about 20, then with a torque wrench to 2/3 of the final torque spec, then final torque.
Another little myth about TTY bolts (since someone asked earlier)... it has nothing to do with the bolt, its simply the method used to torque them. The point is to get the proper bolt stretch for maximum clamping. Bolts are like springs - not enough stretch and they don't clamp enough. Too much and they fail. Using a torque setting to determine that stretch is marginal. A burr on the threads, friction under the head, and a few thousand other factors mean that you can reach your torque value long before the proper stretch has been achieved. The other huge factor is that friction increases exponentially as you increase torque value. Using a TTY method is much more accurate since you go to a smaller torque value and then use degrees to set stretch. Since thread pitch is known, a specific degree of rotation provides a more accurate amount of stretch.
oldbogie said:Studs are set with a hardening sealer such as epoxy or some cyano-acrylic
(superglue) compound so the stud will not move to break it's seal when the
nuts are adjusted.
I doubt there are many who will use a hardening sealer for sealing the threads of a head bolt they intend to retorque- I know I don't. So there is zero issues w/"breaking" any seal- the sealer never hardens- certainly not within the time frame involved for retorquing the heads.automotive breath said:would work a lot better that trying to re-torquing a bolt that has been sealed.
Yes, to retorque heads more work is involved. I do not let that stand in my way, however.I never seem to find time to go through the work it takes to get to all the nuts with headers and rocker arms in the way.