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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2010, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowandloud91
Ok, I'll look into a Haynes. Can I go to a GM dealer to get a factory manual?
There's a publisher that I don't have contact info for at the moment that handles all the manuals for Chevy. Prolly someone here will have it...

There are a couple guys on fleabay that deal in old car and truck factory manuals- you might look there, too.

THIS is what you need- about to the bottom of the page but itís almost $125.00!

1991 CHEVROLET C/K TRUCK Body, Chassis & Electrical Shop Manual

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Last edited by cobalt327; 01-12-2010 at 04:30 PM.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2010, 09:31 PM
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The blinkers sound like there is an intermittent short or the load is too great/fuse too small. Does the case of the fuse look like it's been hot or is the center of the fuse simply popped?

You're fuel system problem sounds like nothing more than a bad relay. The jumper simply jumps 12 volts from the battery (at the relay connector) to the positive side of the fuel pump instead of that connection happening internally. I'm sure if you replace the relay the pump will work as designed.

OR!!!

If the ECM is gone, there is nothing to tell the relay to turn on, and that might be why there is a jumper. The fuel pump relay was one of the few things that needed to be wired differently to work. If I remember correctly, both of the relay coil wires needed to be cut, one side grounded, and the other to a switched 12 volt source (so it would only turn on when the ignition was on). The way it is from the factory is the 12 volt side always had 12 volts and the ECM switched the ground to control the pump.

I believe the only things that I had to "wire" was the fuel pump relay wiring (which we just covered), the torque converter lockup (which I still haven't got around to actually installing), the choke, and the A/C clutch.

I've read that you need to lockup if you have a lockup converter or you can burn up the transmission. I really haven't driven mine much since the swap, and right now I'm building another engine for it (406).

The choke is wired to a switched 12 volt source. I used a relay, and it definitely needs to be fused. DO NOT run the choke to the ignition coil lead (pink wire). Both are high current and pulls away from the other resulting in problems, or so I've been told.

I can't remember right now what I had to do for the A/C for sure. I think I had to ground one of the wires at the pressure cycling switch, but don't take that as gospel.

As for wire diagrams, the absolute best thing you could do is to go to www.alldatadiy.com and purchase a subscription for your truck. It's only like $15 a year and it's worth every penny. It is the same information that independant shops use and it all comes from factory service manuals. It's very handy, and is where I found all of my diagrams. The most helpful diagrams were the pin out diagrams that labeled every wire at the ECM so you know exactly what wire does what. I have had subscriptions for all of my vehicles for years.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2010, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pre-Tuner
The blinkers sound like there is an intermittent short or the load is too great/fuse too small. Does the case of the fuse look like it's been hot or is the center of the fuse simply popped?

You're fuel system problem sounds like nothing more than a bad relay. The jumper simply jumps 12 volts from the battery (at the relay connector) to the positive side of the fuel pump instead of that connection happening internally. I'm sure if you replace the relay the pump will work as designed.

OR!!!

If the ECM is gone, there is nothing to tell the relay to turn on, and that might be why there is a jumper. The fuel pump relay was one of the few things that needed to be wired differently to work. If I remember correctly, both of the relay coil wires needed to be cut, one side grounded, and the other to a switched 12 volt source (so it would only turn on when the ignition was on). The way it is from the factory is the 12 volt side always had 12 volts and the ECM switched the ground to control the pump.

I believe the only things that I had to "wire" was the fuel pump relay wiring (which we just covered), the torque converter lockup (which I still haven't got around to actually installing), the choke, and the A/C clutch.

I've read that you need to lockup if you have a lockup converter or you can burn up the transmission. I really haven't driven mine much since the swap, and right now I'm building another engine for it (406).

The choke is wired to a switched 12 volt source. I used a relay, and it definitely needs to be fused. DO NOT run the choke to the ignition coil lead (pink wire). Both are high current and pulls away from the other resulting in problems, or so I've been told.

I can't remember right now what I had to do for the A/C for sure. I think I had to ground one of the wires at the pressure cycling switch, but don't take that as gospel.

As for wire diagrams, the absolute best thing you could do is to go to www.alldatadiy.com and purchase a subscription for your truck. It's only like $15 a year and it's worth every penny. It is the same information that independant shops use and it all comes from factory service manuals. It's very handy, and is where I found all of my diagrams. The most helpful diagrams were the pin out diagrams that labeled every wire at the ECM so you know exactly what wire does what. I have had subscriptions for all of my vehicles for years.
The blinker fuse is popped. And cool the fuel problem sounds like an easy fix.
The ECM is still in the truck. I do have the correct fuse for the blinkers too, it just constantly blows. I'm not sure how to go about fixing that.

I'll for sure check into that site, sounds like a good deal, and i think I remember hearing about from someone before
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