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-   -   Ready to be set straight! (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/ready-set-straight-226902.html)

guzzidude 12-06-2012 08:00 PM

Ready to be set straight!
 
2 Attachment(s)
Happy to finally join after reading the threads on here for so long.

Ok,

After reading many threads on here and other forums, I decided to post my options for my build and hope to gain some answers or atleast opinions. I am ready to get bashed for atleast one option. I'm sure it will be eviddent. This is not my first build, but my first with these options/dilemmas.

I am back from messing with British cars and picked up a 47 Aerosedan. It is in the same build stage as I received it 2 mos ago. The body is in solid shape with minimal body work and the frame is really clean/solid. It is missing pretty much all of the trim, door handles, bumpers, , front splash pan, hood baffle/latch, and the entire interior except the dash/steering, which is in tact. The grill is there but was stripped/glazed. The window mech. parts are there as well as a few others. Basically all of the meat is there. It is equipped with a 54 belair 235(Y)originally powerglide motor) and the original 3speed/torquetube setup. It would probably run with a little attention, it's very clean in and out. Not sure if the PO used the orig 219 flywheel/starter.

I have decided that yes it does have a good solid body, but most of the original shiny parts are gone, so why not make it a nice rod/mod driver. I have 7mos. old son now, so I would like to it to be functional and safe as well.

My initial thoughts suspension wise were for a Mustang II front end, new column, and posey rear susp. with a 10 bolt rear. Engine wise I would like to build another 350 with th350 or t5. But being a frugal father now, it is tougher for me to afford this type of package in the quick fashion I like to work on things. Slow down?

The next thought was to rebuild and lower the stock suspension. The rebuild lits for these front ends is a little money as well as the rear susp. Steering and brakes not sure. Engine wise, I would still like to do a 350 build, so there's the cost of setting that up as well. Or I could keep the 235, get an adapter for a th350/700 and throw in a rear.

The third option, which will be frowned upon for sure, but gives me a lot of parts is a frame swap with a 73-77 Monte or Grand Prix. I thought with this I get an updated suspension/steering/brakes, ease of parts at local retailers, a whole drivetrain, interior seats, and electrical. All this stuff for a pretty reasonable price considering the other options. I know there is a lot of work involved with a swap and it doesn't discourage me at all.

I am know most of you have answered this question to many others. I wrote this because most of the other guys asking these questions had different cars or different circumstances. With the car missing all the chrome I cannot afford, I would like a good looking cruiser. I would just like to find which would be considered best for my situation and where to aquire said parts reasonably.

Thanks in advance,

Matt

38Sedan 12-06-2012 08:10 PM

Only you know your budget. Can you get it going now cheaply and save/work on things when your budget allows? That's one way to help keep motivated. Any way you decide to go keep at it and enjoy the journey.

69 widetrack 12-06-2012 08:19 PM

Welcome aboard!

It's your build, if you've done your homework and a 73 to 77 Monte Carlo frame will fit and that's what you want, then do it, it's yours. As far as having a modern suspension with the Monte frame, well I guess that's another point of opinion, they make many improvements now for the Monte suspension.

If you buy a donar Monte Carlo, it might have a 350 engine and tans in it already and that would be a plus, they can be picked up relatively cheap too. Some Monte Carlos had a pretty plush interior for it's day as well, I had a 76 with white swivel buckets, console, tilt steering and a full gauge package. The more I write the more I like the Monte Carlo swap, just with the suspension upgrades.

Ray

timothale 12-07-2012 07:56 AM

take some time.
 
Back in the 50's, I bought a 46 bustle back 2 door, Put in a new timing gear and drove it. There was rust around all the chrome from salted roads so we pulled all the chrome off including door handles. Then used a 1/4 drill with a sand disc, took off the rust and paint around the holes, We took a punch and hammer to all the holes and made them look like bullet holes , then mixed up some new to the market at that time, plastic aluminum, filled and spot primed it. The paint we bought did not match the paint chip, I think the shop gave us some left over wrong color but he argued that was the number we ordered mixed. Every since I go in with 2 copies of what I order to any shop. For a budget suspension swap look into, google Jaguar suspension swap. I bought Jag fronts and rears last year, we pull for $ 100 to $ 125. I don't know how the width will be but guys have swapped them into 54's easily. There is a lot more to a frame swap than just dropping the body on another frame. Just read the frame swaps here on hotrodders.

timothale 12-07-2012 09:07 AM

Hamb info
 
If you go to the Hamb forums they have info and picts of a jag suspension going into a 47 sedan

guzzidude 12-07-2012 05:23 PM

I have heard about the Jag swaps and actually started reading all of the posts on the HAMB, looks very cool and those cars are a dime a dozen. I can ask my old Brit club guys if they know of any prospects. I have searched around and they are there atleast on CL.

51 styline 12-17-2012 06:36 PM

I have a 51 Chev with a 78 Mustang 2 /Pinto front suspension. I paid 75.00 for the front suspension complete and 100.00 to trim the welds and weld in the complete unit including removing the stock suspension. I used the Mustang calipers and brakes and brake hoses and speed shop rotors with chev bolt pattern 90.00. I have the car on the road and it handles better than with the stock frt. end and it stops much better. Handles good in the city and on the highway at speeds up to 70-75 MPH. There was no cutting or butchering the frame and only a slight rework for the power rack and pinion.

Mark2268 12-20-2012 09:03 AM

Here is my two cents worth. You cant go wrong with a mustang 2 front suspension. you can pick one up at a junk yard fairly cheap and then as money permits upgrade with atermarket parts and as for horse power you also cant forget cubic inches = cheap horse power. meanig go with a big block chevy and upgrade as you go. The car would be awesome with a built inline six, I am envious. have you thought about going with a cadilac drivetrain. I am not familar with the years but to say you have a 500 ci caddy motor as well as interior pieces would make a real kool ride...Just my opinion, again sweet car

timothale 12-20-2012 10:23 AM

front end fit/
 
If you go with a stock M II front suspension you can't just c clamp it and weld. There was quite a bit of discussion a couple weeks a go here on HR about problems someone was having trying to get alignment

51 styline 12-20-2012 11:18 AM

Front end Fit
 
I can,t understand why there would be a problem with alignment. My Mustang 2 install went very easy. It just took careful measurements and some minor trimming for fit. After the drivetrain was installed( 350 Chev V8 and 350 Tranny) i sent it to a competent alignment shop and they set the alignment with no problems. No pull on the road and no drift at highway speeds. Maybe i just got lucky.

timothale 12-20-2012 03:53 PM

Measure twice weld once
 
With any swap not using a pre engineeered crosmember-brackets or directions murphey's law . If anything can go wrong it will. ride height, correct geometry, angles. bumb steer, interference , etc.


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