[Ratchet]

Ok The Battery in my 87 Camaro Project kept going Dead so I Did a search and found the information about hooking up the amp meter from the negative side of the battery to the negative battery cable. As soon as I hooked it up it read 9.8 Milli amps. I started pulling fuses and the only one that made any difference was the one for the hazard lights. When I pulled it the meter dropped to 9.1 Milli amps. Since this did not appear to be the problem I went around and tugged on wires etc. etc. still could not get the meter to fall below 9.8 Milli amps.

Finally I pulled the plug with the two wires in it out of the side of the alternator. I think one wire is for the gauge in the dash and the other goes to the positive terminal on the back of the alternator. When I pulled this wire the meter immediately fell to 0.8 Milli amps. I then went and pulled the fuse for the hazard lights and mete read 0.0

So the question is two fold first of all does this mean the alternator was the culprit that was draining the battery and simply replacing it will fix the problem.

Secondly is the 0.8 draw from the hazard lights normal or should I try and find the problem with that circuit. If I need to find that problem also any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks
Ric

[sicksixseven]

To be honest, I have had to put alternators in all of my cars, and every time that my battery goes dead, the alternator has been the problem. If you dont remember the last time that you put one in, thats how you know you need one. I might just be old fashioned, but it has never steered me wrong. I just suck it up, spend the $50 and the problem gets fixed. I'd say that it was only a Chevy thing, but I just did the same in my Toyota mud truck, and that fixed the problem. Check for warning lights on the dash board, as when a certain number of them come on at once, then it is similar to a code as to what is wrong. The codes are found in the manual, and that might help. best of luck. Sam

[docvette]

Doc here,

You have a bad Diode pack in the alternator..One or more are reverse biasing and imposing a load on the battery just sitting...

This also effects the altenator output..because one of the diodes is bad, It's not fully rectifying the AC generated from the alternator to fully useful DC..thus lowering the output slightly in DC and 3 to 4 volts useless AC...so in addition to the load...it's not charging at 14.4..volts DC.

You can either replace the alternator or the diodes..whichever you feel most comfortable with..up to you and only about a $20 difference.

The reaming 0.8 is in the ballpark, If not a bit high..0.3 is good...and you might have your CD memory fuse and The Computer keep alive on that line too Also any mechanical clock...

I think you should be able to get by with 0.8 after you correct the alternator.

Doc

[Ratchet]

Thanks Doc

I will probably just get the new alternator.

Ric

[Ratchet]

Got the new alternator it draws .68 milli amps.

Ric

[docvette]

Doc here,

0.6 is still a bit high..but livable...

Try pulling the Clock fuse, (if you have one) and locate the computer memory and power fuse, and pull that..If you have a CD with memory presets..unplug the harness at the radio..

Check your draw again..It should be at ZERO...If it is , It's all good!

Either way, you should be over the "Dead Battery" syndrome now..

If you have a Mechanical clock, and a CD with time display, just pull the mechanical clock fuse and run without it..that should bring it back to about 0.3 MA...and your clock will still function years from now when you go to sell the car..

Keep us posted!

Doc

[Diane312RED]

Hi I hope everything has worked out for you but keep in mind that not all cars are the same obiviously......depending on what accessories you have hooked up on your car .68 should be fine. Apparently it was the alternator which in most cases the simpliest thing was to replace it(which you did LoL) unless you know what you are doing lol and most of us just know the basics plus some.......right?!?