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Old 09-08-2009, 09:33 PM
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The 4-link mounts are already welded to the frame at 20" . The axle mounts will also need to be at 20" . What do you think about 20" ? I guess if I had done my homework a little better the frame could have been 4" wider but that is really a mute point now. I really appreciate the great advise and it seems I will be OK at 20" with a upper shock mount relocation to 24" . That will be an easy change.

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Old 09-08-2009, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredbaker
The 4-link mounts are already welded to the frame at 20" . The axle mounts will also need to be at 20" . What do you think about 20" ? I guess if I had done my homework a little better the frame could have been 4" wider but that is really a mute point now. I really appreciate the great advise and it seems I will be OK at 20" with a upper shock mount relocation to 24" . That will be an easy change.

Without me seeing it,, I think you should be ok.. Good luck.. If you need anymore help,, Just let me know...
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Old 09-08-2009, 09:42 PM
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Great, you guys are really making me feel better. I was getting a little depressed.. LOL
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Old 09-08-2009, 09:44 PM
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Great, you guys are really making me feel better. I was getting a little depressed.. LOL

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Old 09-09-2009, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredbaker
The 4-link mounts are already welded to the frame at 20" . The axle mounts will also need to be at 20" . What do you think about 20" ? I guess if I had done my homework a little better the frame could have been 4" wider but that is really a mute point now. I really appreciate the great advise and it seems I will be OK at 20" with a upper shock mount relocation to 24" . That will be an easy change.
Are your lower coil-over mounts integrated with your four link axle brackets or are they a separate part?
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Old 09-09-2009, 09:15 AM
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What you are going to need is a stiff anti roll bar on the rear. The reason is that with the narrowed rear end the shocks/springs have little leverage to prevent the the right rear tire from unloading when you step on it. If you use a locking diff of some sort it will mask this however only the left tire will really grab. It can cause you to make nice C shaped burn out tracks. You will clearly see this with an open diff. I speak from solid experience with this. My Willys has almost the same width as you have and with the open diff it will burn the tire right off but with a locker both tires spin but the car drives to the left (left turn or drives the rear to the right.). With the stiff rear anti roll bar it drive straight providing there is the proper pre load on the spring/shocks. Running an open rear end for testing is a good eye opener and you can learn how to wedge the chassis for drag racing. If you can get the car to go straight and hook both tires you will be doing great.

BTW this will cause some 'push' turning into over steer if you drive hard around the clover leafs so be carefull. It can be a little spooky driving with a very stiff rear roll bar and a locker. It's all a compromise.
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Old 09-09-2009, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aosborn
Are your lower coil-over mounts integrated with your four link axle brackets or are they a separate part?
They are not integrated with the lower 4-link brackets. I still need to decide where they will be placed and what type to buy.
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Old 09-09-2009, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS
I have these set at 15'' apart.. And my wheel width is wider then your's... You might be OK... You want them as close to the tire as you can put them.. good luck..
How wide are your rear frame rails ?
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Old 09-09-2009, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS
They are 17'' center to center,, 9'' Ford..
When welding the rear brackets on the axle housing, are the brackets set 90 degrees vertical to the plane of the pinion ? I need to set these brackets before I send the rearaxle to Moser to be narrowed because they are 1 piece with the 3" hole. Or should I have Moser put the brackets on the axle housings un-welded and position them and weld them with the axle setup in the car ?
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Old 09-09-2009, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredbaker
When welding the rear brackets on the axle housing, are the brackets set 90 degrees vertical to the plane of the pinion ? I need to set these brackets before I send the rearaxle to Moser to be narrowed because they are 1 piece with the 3" hole. Or should I have Moser put the brackets on the axle housings un-welded and position them and weld them with the axle setup in the car ?

When I set one up. I set the axle housing at what ever pinion angle you will be running.. Then I put the brackets striate up and down.. That's how I do a four bar set up.. It will be close enough to dial it in..

I want you to know,,, I'm not a chassis engineer... But I do know enough to get by.... And know what has worked for me in the pass..

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Old 09-09-2009, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredbaker
How wide are your rear frame rails ?

25'' outside to outside...
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 09-09-2009, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS
When I set one up. I set the axle housing at what ever pinion angle you will be running.. Then I put the brackets striate up and down.. That's how I do a four bar set up.. It will be close enough to dial it in..

I want you to know,,, I'm not a chassis engineer... But I do know enough to get by.... And know what has worked for me in the pass..
OK, that makes sense and is what I was thinking but had to ask. I have reviewed all the suggestions and have decided to widen the rear frame to 24". I can do this quite easily by just cutting the front drop bar in the middle and welding in a 4" piece of 2" X 3" and adding 2" to the upper shock and rear crossmembers. I can get the 24" frame in there with plenty of clearance for the inner tire walls. That way I can set my coil-overs at 16" to 18" instead of 12". I am very happy I asked these questions and got great advise. It really opens my eyes and mind to solutions. Like thinking outside the box. Thank you all ....
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Old 09-09-2009, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredbaker
OK, that makes sense and is what I was thinking but had to ask. I have reviewed all the suggestions and have decided to widen the rear frame to 24". I can do this quite easily by just cutting the front drop bar in the middle and welding in a 4" piece of 2" X 3" and adding 2" to the upper shock and rear crossmembers. I can get the 24" frame in there with plenty of clearance for the inner tire walls. That way I can set my coil-overs at 16" to 18" instead of 12". I am very happy I asked these questions and got great advise. It really opens my eyes and mind to solutions. Like thinking outside the box. Thank you all ....

I think you will be much happier you did...Good luck..
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2009, 10:13 AM
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Let me get some measurments on mine.I'm building a Morris Minor,tube frame,4-link etc.My frame measures 20" inside to inside.I'll check and see what my coilovers are set at,I just don't remember off the top of my head.
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Old 09-15-2009, 10:28 AM
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Before you lock everything in stone plan where your exhaust system is going to go.
Prostreet narrowed rear end, coil overs, panhard bar, brake lines, E-brake cable and rear anti roll bar will eat up all the room very quickly.

I got it all in but just barely. The 3 inch exhaust pipes about finished me but I managed to squeeze them in by using offset arms on the anti-roll bar.
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