[1badcamero]

how hard is it to change out the bearings and seals in 83 camero. And what is all involved.

[ December 08, 2002: Message edited by: 1badcamero ]

[ December 09, 2002: Message edited by: 1badcamero ]

[ December 10, 2002: Message edited by: 1badcamero ]</p>

[KULTULZ]

Well...it is not all that difficult.

You have to drop the rear cover to remove the c-clips that hold the shafts in. The seal can be removed with a seal puller or large srewdiver/pry bar. The bearings are pressed fit into the housing and require a special puller and slide hammer.

The axle shaft acts as a bearing race and has to be inspected closely. The new bearing is pressed (driver and hammer) into the housing end, followed by the seal and the axles reinstalled.

If you decide to attempt (and there is no reason not to) you need a repair manual to guide you along.

[dmorris1200]

As stated, yes it's not that difficult and a simple chilton or haynes manual will guide you along. When you remove the rear cover there is a small bolt that holds the shaft that runs through the center of the differential. You must rotate the driveshaft to spin the diff. so you can remove the bolt and slide out the shaft. This allows you to push in on the axle shafts to pop out the c-clips. Just be careful, that center shaft keeps the spider gears lined up and if you rotate the axles while that shaft is out your spider gears will come apart. Once you remove the c-clips and slide out the axles the seals pop out of the housing tubes first. Either a seal puller or a screwdriver and hammer can pop them out. They make a slide-hammer fitting that slips behind the bearing and removes it fairly easy with a couple of slaps of the slide-hammer. You may be able to rent one of these tools from a local auto parts store. You can then use either a bearing installer/driver to install the new bearing or something similar like a socket the size of the bearing and a hammer and just hit the socket till it drives the bearing in all the way. Then just install the seals and put her back together again. Make sure you don't forget to put the new gear oil in and add friction modifier if it's a posi.

[sst4530]

As prevoiusly stated this not that difficult. One potential problem that is frequently encountered with a unit of this age, is the axle retaning pin bolt somtimes snaps do to excessive wear in the carrier assembly. If this is encountered there can be substancial amount of work envolved trying to remove the pin as well as cost to replace the carrier, pinion, side gears, and retaining pin.

[novajohnb]

You can make your own bearing puller adapter for the slide hammer. Take a large fender washer, about the same OD as axle bearing. Grind/ cut off two sides until washer fits inside bearing ID (washer will look like an oval shape.) Worked for me...

[slider]

When you get your axles out, look closely where the bearing rides. Lots of times the axle is grooved and will destroy a new bearing in a few miles. There are two (at least) cures for this. If this is a high power car where the possibility of breaking an axle exists, buy a new axle. If you have a mild motor/trans combo there is a bearing available that has a larger internal surface that will effectively repair the axle. I have sold hundreds of these over the years and they are a reliable fix. Any real parts store will stock the part.

[Seon]

Again this forum rocks. I just changed rear bearings on my '70 Chevelle wagon but first did a search on this forum and bam, step by step procedure. I also have a manual, but got more info from this thread than the manual.

[dmorris1200]

Thanks for posting Seon, it's nice to here when a job goes well.