[sedanbob]

Ray, I did some more research because of my conversation with the second guy from Energy Suspension - he brought up "adjustable bumpstops". They don't really apply to my situation, more for off-road and racing setups, but very interesting. Different densities and heights allow them to tune when the suspension starts engaging the bumpstops and how much the stop functions as a spring. You can change the timing at each wheel to compensate for torque at launch, or cornering. You can even pre-load with them. Like a lot of things, the deeper I go, the deeper it gets. There's a lot more to it than I'll ever understand.

[69 widetrack]

I can see how that would be effective in an off road situation...Isn't it amazing how today there is a part made for every application we can think of. I can remember when shackles where the hit of the day for raising your car and not bottoming out...nobody wanted it lowered. I talked to my guy again tonight (after I visited him) and told him about your hopeful solution. He said that this is a common solution and his question was exactly where and how are you planning on mounting the bump stops. I know this guy well and if he can help or offer a suggestion that might make your situation easier on you he will be there and give you explanations as to why (very thorough that way).

Best to You
Ray

[sedanbob]

I got the bumpstops from Pete and Jakes in the mail today. They are about 1 1/4" tall and 2 1/2" in diameter. They are softer than the ones from Energy Suspension, but get stiffer as they are compressed. I will drill and tap the frame rail above the rear axle to install them. I think they are just what I was looking for.

[69 widetrack]

Hey Bob, glad to hear you got the shorter stops you wanted. I just finished calling my local suspension buddy out here and explained what your doing. He agrees that your going to have a marked improvement with the increase of 3/4 inch in travel and the softer progressive stop. The only concern he had was about the actual amount of suspension travel...I am so interested in this and would much appreciate if you could keep me informed on your final results after the install of the new stops.

Thanks for all the information and relentless posting
Ray

[sedanbob]

Will do. Thanks for your feedback (and your suspension buddy's too).

[69 widetrack]

I'm going for another visit with him in the morning I'm looking at a 34 Coupe that he just pulled into the shop for coil overs, the main topic of discussion is your car....I'll be happy to report back.

[BIGMIKE@RIDETECH]

Who's Coilovers are you currently running? Do you know what your current rear spring rate is? When you ordered them did they ask for exact corner weights of the car?

[sedanbob]

The coilovers are Aldan American adjustable. I didn't specify the spring rate, but the guys at Pete and Jakes knew it was for a Redneck sedan, and they had worked with Redneck on several others. I think the spring rate might be 250# - but don't know for sure.

[BIGMIKE@RIDETECH]

I wouldn't mind running the numbers on the coils for you if you have the actual rear weight of your car. Just need to know the weight for the rear, distance from shock mount to shock mount at drive height, And whether the shocks are mounted straight up and down or at a certain angle.

[sedanbob]

Big Mike, Thanks for the offer. I can't get to the scales right now. When I can, I'll get the corner weights and measure the height, and angle of the coilover mounts. The vast majority of the time the ride is great and I'm not bottoming out. The only time that I might have, I was doing 70 on the interstate and hit a spot where the Illinois highway department dug out an expansion joint, left a 3-4" deep ditch the width of the lane (about 2 foot long), and didn't bother to mark it! I hit it hard. That's what got me thinking about the bump stops.

[clywrig]

I installed the same stops on my frame (SRPM prostreet for a 1937 Plymouth) and like you, am not reassured by their presence. Another thread mentioned a progressive stop would be good. Maybe an answer to all our concerns would be stops I saw on an off-road vehicle which consisted of a rubber tipped shaft that disappeared into a nitrogen charged cylinder. I haven't investigated this yet, but if it was feasible, it seemed also to be something that could be home built.

[1971BB427]

If the new bumpstops don't work as you hope, then you can get rubber snubbers as used on the old slapper style traction bars from Lakewood. There are many places to buy them, and here's one I found:
Lakewood Rubber Snubber | Product Details | Pep Boys

[sedanbob]

Thanks for the input. I haven't installed the new bumpstops yet - getting ready for my upholsterer, so I don't want to pull everything apart so I can get in there to drill and tap the frame rails. I'll have plenty of time after I get it back. The rubber snubbers are about the same consistency as the bump stops I got from Pete and Jakes - I think they'll work fine. I have seen stackable bumpstops of varying hardness that go on the shock inside the coilover - they require taking the coilover apart to adjust. They are used in some road racing applications.

[pprather]

This is what I used in my Model A and was very happy with the result.

Produced less body lean when cornering and softened the axle to frame contact considerably - I only have about 1.75" clearance.

Single Convolution Springs - Timbren Aeon Hollow Rubber Springs

I mounted them using the body bolt that is right above the axle.

Hope this helps,
Phil

[sedanbob]

Thanks Pprather - those rubber springs are very interesting. I think I am OK with the bump stops I have now, but if they don't work out I'll definitely be looking into these.