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Old 09-14-2006, 01:54 PM
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Rear body mount shot... what to do?

I know some of these questions seem stupid to a lot of you veterans but I need answers to things I just don't know. I've taken a step to a new level in my car interests and I'm learning so bare with me. Just got up under the 64 Impala I bought last month. Finished building the front end. No I didn't do it all myself. Had to have help but now I have another problem. Noticed that one of the rear body mounts is rusted plum through. I've never dealt with anything like this and don't know if I can fix this without taking the body off the frame. I know it sounds stupid but I'm a pup. The body bolt is completely rusted out and there is no plate left. I'm really not into the car to the point I would want to take it off the frame, but.... looks like all the mounting rubber is bad, but solid except for this one. Input without snickers would be appreciated. Ok, maybe a few snickers if I can get some good advice out of it.
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Dave
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Old 09-14-2006, 02:30 PM
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It can be done, but you need fabricating and welding skills. Probably more than you can hancle right now, as you said.

Another thing, check the frame real well in the rear areas also. These "X" frame cars are known for soft frames in this area.
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Old 09-14-2006, 02:31 PM
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Is that in the floor pan???..if it is then you will need to weld in a replacement section and of course you will need a new bolt..and probably one of the rubber isolators..

Pictures of the damage would be nice and I would look at the other body mounts as well..where there is rust like that there is likely to be more..

Sam
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Old 09-14-2006, 03:11 PM
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It is the drivers side rear and it is rusted completely away. Suprisingly the rest of the mounts look ok. I mean they could use new rubber and might be, ok, will be a dog to get them off because they are old, but the pan is solid. It is just the one rear that is so bad. I think I'm gonna have to get the tire off and get it up in the air to see to what extent I'll have to replace this part of the pan.
I'll get pics when I get it up in the air.
Dave
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Old 09-14-2006, 04:17 PM
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There are mounts right behind the gas tank also. Usually those are the ones that give out.
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Old 09-14-2006, 05:34 PM
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I think you have mounts---next to rhe rear spring pocket---just aft of the kickup (next to the fuel tank)---and in the rear corners.

Buy a body mount kit, I think you can also get the correct hardware as well.
Be prepared for broken bolts. Might want to heat up the body a bit where the bolt goes thru, but I doubt you can get to it with the bushings in place.
If the bolts break, you will have to drill thru them and retap the cagenuts.

Bryan
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Old 09-14-2006, 07:11 PM
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Where there's a will....

Many times I have found it easier to just cut out a larger section around the damaged area, and make up a patch piece of flooring and any bracing that is needed. A lot of times when I am buying my steel I look thru the cutoff bins and behind the large shear for the tailings and smaller bits to use for this. I make my cuts with the Sawzall or cutoff wheels into good steel... in this case at least 6" around the bad mount. I then assemble and torque the mount to my new patch, do any minor fitting/blacksmithing so the edges line up, and stitch weld the patch in place. I make tacks every 4 inches or so about a half-inch long to fasten the patch all around, then go back in between those tacks with another round, letting things cool about 5 minutes or so between rounds. On floors I like to keep tacking patches in until they are fully welded, but on body panels sometimes I dont if there is a low crown, to keep excess heat out.

In the case of a cagenut with a bolt broken off in it, I just knock the spotwelds holding the cage in place with the air chisel and remove it and the nut piece with the broken bolt, and it's quicker just to fab up new parts than to get the broken pieces out. Certainly a lot easier to drill and tap on the bench than underneath, drilling upwards, with crap from drilling going all over... The cage is easy to duplicate from 11 Ga sheet scraps too. I generally put more welds on the cage also so it does'nt come loose inside the panel, before welding the floor patch back in to cover it.


I also liberally anti-seize EVERYTHING when I am assembling parts. Most excess can be wiped off afterwards, leaving some on bolt threads and the like, or a quick blast of brake cleaner and then rattlecan it to keep the rust off...

Granted, some of the resto types would think that how I fix stuff sometimes is a little butch, but unless you have the means to do a body-off resto, you'd have a VERY hard time putting in a new subfloor support or the like to factory specs and finish. Been there, and done that also.

Chances are you can get some box tubing sections and some flat sheet and make up a patch relatively easily, and get that mount area fixed up strong. Besides it is underneath, where nobody'll see it anyways. When you have the means later on to do it up like factory you can weigh whether it's worth it to chop it back out and redo, but most likely its not worth the effort or you'll be having fun driving it and not wanna park it...


Doc
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Old 09-22-2006, 08:32 PM
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Thanks for the input. I'll let you know how it turns out when I get it done.
Dave
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