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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2003, 04:06 AM
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PrimaDude, there are 2 other possibilities to your dilemma.
1st, your park brake cables could be sticking. You didnt say if u used park brakes. They get rusty,dirty, whatever, and will pull out but not return. Then, brakes drag.
2nd, if brake pedal isnt adjusted right, master cylinder will hold pressure in the lines & cause brakes to "pump up". When they start dragging on you, loosen 1 bleeder screw & see if they have any pressure on them. This will tell u if the problem is in hydraulics.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2003, 02:20 PM
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you can also make sure you have not over filled the master cylinder. if the master is overfilled the fluid will expand when it gets hot and will engage the brakes
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Old 02-05-2003, 02:35 PM
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Since there's been no post as to correction of the problem , I'll add my 2 cents. A problem I've encountered more than once is a restricted return hole in the master cylinder. When the brakes are applied the fluid is prevented from returning through this port and as the brakes drag the fluid builds up pressure and then locks up the brakes. Many things can cause it, sometimes though, it's from debris in the lines that gets free and floats "upstream" until it settles in the port and obstructs or restricts it.
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Old 02-05-2003, 05:34 PM
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When I pulled the drums off the first time a week ago, the left drum (the one I am having problems with) shoes were on backwards. Since I replaced the shoes and springs I did put everything on properly.

I will be doing my test drive as soon as the roads clear up (it's snowing again tonight) to see how the turned drums worked out. If the right drum still drags then I will back off the emergency brake. Currently, it won't hold the car on a hill until the parking brake is pushed in to the last two notches. I will also check to make sure the brake cables are returning properly as this may definantenly be a problem. I will have the wife set and release the P-brake a few times and see if they are letting go.

Concerning the possible right bent axle. I don't have a dial indicator and would probably have to take it in to check this. However, the only thing in my car that is not "correct" is the 10-bolt rear. It should be a 12-bolt for my 396. I have a 99' Honda Civic for sale and when it sells soon I intend to purchase a rebuilt 12-bolt (the wife is already convinced so I am home free on this). This would definately help determine if the axle is bent although an expensive way to find out.

That was a good suggestion to loosen the bleeder to see if the lines have pressure when the brakes are dragging. I will plan on checking this.

Do you think that if the master cylinder had a restricted return hole that both the brakes would end up dragging? Currently only the left side has the problem. If I loosen the bleeder when the brakes are dragging and I have pressure then this could be it.

Thank you all for your suggestions. I will soon be test driving again, most likely Friday, and I will post what has happened.

I don't know what I would do without this board!

Joe

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Old 02-06-2003, 04:27 AM
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Hey PrimaDude nice ride.Did you do the work yourself?Was the rotisserie difficult?Ohhh those first generation F bodies.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2003, 09:57 AM
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Project69ss,

No, I bought it 6 months ago in show condition. I can handle general maintenance but I don't have the skill yet to tackle something as large as a rotisserie restoration. It is a real x22 big block car. Numbers don't match but the car is "correct" (except for the rear). I am just working out the few things that weren't up to par. I drive it regularly to work on nice days. The only thing not original is the rear end. I am going to purchase a rebuilt 12-bolt within the next month to replace the 10-bolt.
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Old 02-11-2003, 04:46 PM
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Well here is an update on my overheating rear drums. I drove around for two days and today both drums are overheating. My next step is to replace the e-brake cables and cable springs that go through the backing plate. I am pretty sure they are hanging up. When I release the e-brake they don't snap back. They just kind of slide slowly half way in. If this doesn't do it then maybe there is blockage preventing fluid returning to the master cylinder and causing pressure in the lines. I will let you know what happens....Thanks all for the great input.

Joe
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2003, 08:32 PM
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check parking brake cables where you live at if the parking brake is not used all the time they rust in one position with new shoes the linings are too thick. pull cable at "y" connection for each side cable should work freely if not spray down with rust removing product like liquid wrench work back and forth with drum off pulling and pry carefully also check and make sure that rear rubber brake hose was replaced
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2003, 12:18 PM
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OK, I have new information on my rear drum overheating problem. This morning I replaced the e-brake cables that go through the backing plate. I drove it for 15 minutes and they are still overheating and too hot to touch. I am sure that the e-brake is not the cause.

I pulled into my garage and while they were still hot and dragging, I pulled one of the wheels off. Then I put a clear tube on the bleeder screw and loosened the screw. About three inches of brake fluid shot into the tube. This proves to me that when the brakes overheat the problem is caused by hydraulic pressure.

So far to date this is what I have done to the rear brakes:

Drums Turned
New Spring Kit
New Pads
New e-brake cable

I have attached a picture of my master cylinder and the valves. I need help to determine which one of these to replace. Should I replace the larger proportioning valve or both of them shown in the picture? Could the problem be anything else? I need advice from you brake gurus…

Also, what is the best way to bleed the whole system once I get the new hardware installed? Are there any tricks of the trade I should do? I have a Mity Vac.

Thanks,

Joe

http://hotrodders.com/photos/0000498...erCylinder.JPG
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2003, 12:21 PM
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I didn't do the photo right. Here is that photo.
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Old 02-14-2003, 02:22 PM
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Have you replaced the rear brake hose? This may be your problem? Check Valveing or the rod is adjusted to long on the brake booster?
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2003, 03:14 PM
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Roy,

I will check out the hose next. Maybe it is disintegrating inside. Can you explain in more detail about the check valve and rod adjustment? Where??
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2003, 03:26 PM
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I dont know if you have figured out the problen yet but I ahd this to happen to me and it was the rod that runs from the brake pedal was a tad too long, take the bolts off of the master cyl. and if you push the master cyl. to it normal position and you feel any pressure at all you need to shorten the brake rod, you can test this with a couple of washers between the master cyl. and booster, hope this helps
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2003, 12:10 AM
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If I adjust the screw that changes the pedal height this would seem to me to change the rod length. If I give it more play which in effect shortens the length of the rod, do you think this is an effective test or could this be a permanent change to resolve the problem?
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2003, 02:09 AM
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The hose it self will check valve the fluid,and hold press on the rear brakes, replace the hose first if it looks old, The mastercyl rod adjustment can be tuff but it can be done, check that hose first! This happens alot on front brakes where the hoses get a workout more then the rear.
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