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rear end help?????
I have purchased a 8.5 10 bolt open axle rear end. My question is whats the trick to getting a rusted on brake drum off? I got one off which was just stuck to the shoes no big deal. The other side is rusted to the center of the hub. I tried the obvious beat it with a hammer, then i tried sanding the rust off around the two mating surfaces then i tried a spray lube and finally a propane torch to heat it up and followed that up with more beating. All im doing is chipping chunks of the drum off but it wont budge. Is there a type of puller for this? Would it work if i maybe made some sort of puller? Any and all ideas are appreciated as i need to get this thing torn down to rebuild it. Thanks to all who help me out in advance.
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brake drum
hi,i had a brake drum that was rusted solid.i tried every trick i ever heard of,to no avail. finally,i took a 1/8 in cobalt drill bit and drilled a series of holes ,at the junction of the drum and axle ,very close together,just a little over half way around the drum.then took a hammer and chisel to remove the pieces between the holes that i drilled. then the drum popped right off. had to buy another drum, but so what. it beats standing there and wondering what to do next.
Last edited by boatbob2; 05-04-2007 at 02:58 PM. Reason: more info |
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if its not rust welded on & your not in a hurry P B Blaster & let it soak up & in there if you beat up the Axel too much it will mushroom & then it will get hung up on the end {provided it came loose in the 1st place}
The best way would be like Billvill said Make sure you back the brakes off as much as possible. Sometimes you have to take a skinny screwdriver to push in the lock lever for the auto adjust to "Back spin" the adjustment screw. R
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"SlowRide66" "Illegitimis non carborundum" Don't let the bastards grind you down! Crankshaft Coalition Master List of Hotrodding Forums |
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Use oxy/acetylene to heat the center of the drum red hot. It will expand around the axle and should come off. The "hot" wrench is a beautiful thing. Propane alone will not get it hot enough.
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getting drum off
Take a chissel and drive it between the axle and drum, in one of the holes between the lug bolts.After you get it sprung out a little, hit the drum on the other side with a mall, one good smack and it should pop off.
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Thanks guys im sure i'll need to try all of these things. I think it was sitting for a long time and its really on there.
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Thanks for all your help guys. I got it off, I used a chisel arounf the center of the hub and broke it free then i beat it like a red headed step child and it came free. I didnt want to pull the axle because im having the rear regeared and built so i wanted to leave it in one piece. I wasnt worried about the drums as i have another set on my original rear end assuming they will fit from a 7.5 to an 8.5. either way i would rather have new ones anyways. Thanks again guys you were very helpful
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Well now that your done I remembered another way , a bit more intense i must add.
you can knock all the lug studs into the Axel & you can also cut off the shoe pins that hold on the shoes on the backing plate to give you more wiggle room. Sorry some more of that CRS stuff R
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"SlowRide66" "Illegitimis non carborundum" Don't let the bastards grind you down! Crankshaft Coalition Master List of Hotrodding Forums |
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I know you got it but for others with this problem: All but the most stubborn ones will respont to penetrant and pounding. The vibration of peening it helps the penetrant work. Also chevys seem to be the worst for having a lip on the drum that can't get over the shoes. You need to get the shoes backed down to clear that lip, which can require knocking out the adjuster holes and holding the self adjusters off the star wheel in order to back it up.
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