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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2011, 08:26 PM
471A
 
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Any recommendations on a convertor manufacturer who does custom work. Coan ? Fairbanks ? Race season is now starting in Oregon so I would appreciate a converter builder who could provide the 4,000 stall that several have recommended. I also am thinking of 4.10 gears in my Dana 60. Any higher than that is likely to become annoying in the "street" past of this 29 Tudor's life, particularly on 100 mile freeway runs. Finally, any thoughts about converting the current B & M TH 350 to a manual valve body ?

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2011, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
...first posts lists a 30" tire
So like I said- excessive slippage- to the tune of ~ 15%.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt
A looser TC is a given in your case. A decent compromise would be a "tight" 10".
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Originally Posted by cobalt
If your tires are larger diameter than 26", this indicates excessive slippage of the TC.
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Old 03-21-2011, 10:32 PM
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My shift light - set at 5,500 rpm - lights up as I near the stripe at the big end. The current rear tires are 30.0 x 9.0 x 15 Goodyear drag radials. So based on the input - superb as usual from those who post on HRB - my current plan is as follows: install a 3,500 stall convertor custom built for my combination, bump the shift points to 6,000-6,200 (try both; choose which one is lower e.t.), install 3.73 gears in the Dana 60, switch the rear radial slicks to not more than 28 inch diameter, and then ..........see what happens. To all who contributed, "Thank You". And "Yes", as race season dries out and opens here in Oregon, I will post results as the experiment continues. Whether or not the A runs 10.99 or quicker, the info learned in this exchange has been valuable and enjoyable. And a final word: I understand that this combination would run at least as quick, and maybe quicker, by adjusting the automatic shift points and racing only in Drive. But the bottom line for me is fun, not winning races, and shifting off the light while accelerating down the track is second only to the launch as pure fun !
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Old 03-21-2011, 10:44 PM
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As a footnote, the last three quarter-mile time slips from 2010 - with the current combination of 3.54 gears-30 X 9 X 15 tires - 2,800 stall convertor-and shifting at 5,500 were as follows:

(1) 11.23 e.t./ 117.78 mph/1.614 60 ft. 1/8th: 7.115 e.t./mph 96.96

(2) 11.295 e.t./116.61mph/1.625 60 ft. 1/8th: 7.148 e.t./mph 96.77

(3) 11.379 e.t./116.18mph/1.649 60 ft. 1/8th: 7.194 e.t./95.27

Runs (1) and (2) were made shifting at 5,500 off the light. Run (3) was made in Drive.
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Old 03-22-2011, 04:55 AM
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I believe your sub-11 second run is in the bag using the changes you've outlined.

I'd be curious to know if just changing shift points would get you into the tens w/the set up the way it now is.

Good luck and thanks for supplying good info for the board to work with and for keeping us posted on what happens.
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Old 03-22-2011, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 471A
My shift light - set at 5,500 rpm - lights up as I near the stripe at the big end.
DOES THIS MEAN YOU'RE CROSSING THE LINE IN SECOND GEAR ?
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 03-22-2011, 11:36 PM
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With the TH 350 and 3.54 rear gears, the A crosses the quarter-mile stripe in 3rd gear, whether in drive or with me shifting 1-2 and 2-3 off of the current 5,500 shift light. While I cannot say for certain exactly where on any individual pass I am making the 2-3 shift, my recollection is that the 2-3 shift comes past the 1/8th and before the 1,000 foot. Based upon the HRB input, I now plan to shift at 6,000-6,2000 as race season begins in soggy Spring western Oregon.
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Old 03-23-2011, 12:55 AM
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If you are in 3rd gear then that is showing 1000+ rpm slip in the converter with the current combination. That's excessive.
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Old 06-26-2011, 11:41 PM
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My 29 A was short one part (a locking dip transmission dipstick) to permissibly run 10.99 or quicker at this weekend's 35th annual Oldies but Goodies drags at the Woodburn, Oregon strip. Running 15 pounds on the Goodyear Eagle radial slicks, which I bolted on after driving to the track, I set the shift light to flash at 5,200, well below the HP peak of 6k. The result: back to back e.t.s of 11.029 and 11.007, each with 1.58 60 foots, and 119 mph. Once I bolt in the required dip stick, and adjust the shift points upwards closer to 6k, this 29 will run 10.99 and under. "Thank You", very much to Cobalt, FBird, EricNova, and others who offered in March advice that I put to use in getting this street/strip steel Tudor on the verge of running 10s. When it does, I will post again. Again, "Thanks".
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2011, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 471A
My 29 A was short one part (a locking dip transmission dipstick) to permissibly run 10.99 or quicker at this weekend's 35th annual Oldies but Goodies drags at the Woodburn, Oregon strip. Running 15 pounds on the Goodyear Eagle radial slicks, which I bolted on after driving to the track, I set the shift light to flash at 5,200, well below the HP peak of 6k. The result: back to back e.t.s of 11.029 and 11.007, each with 1.58 60 foots, and 119 mph. Once I bolt in the required dip stick, and adjust the shift points upwards closer to 6k, this 29 will run 10.99 and under. "Thank You", very much to Cobalt, FBird, EricNova, and others who offered in March advice that I put to use in getting this street/strip steel Tudor on the verge of running 10s. When it does, I will post again. Again, "Thanks".
Cool Beans!!!

What were the exact changes you made, if you don't mind my asking??
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2011, 09:23 PM
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While I still plan to go to a 10 inch, 3,500 stall convertor, the weekend's 11.007 and 11.029 e.t.s, and 1.58 60 ft, were run with the same B & M 2,800-3,000 off-the-shelf convertor noted in my earlier March 2011 posting. First thing I changed, advised by FBird, was to stop trying to load the convertor at the tree by taking the rpms as high as I could before the car would begin to creep into the lights. Instead, as FBird advised, I left at idle, going to WOT off the last amber. Second, after rolling through the water box, and been given the burnout signal, I would spin the Goodyear Eagles, set at 15 pounds, until the A would pitch left, which typically took 4-5 seconds. This helped create the 1.58 60 ft times. (A week earlier, I tried BFG street-strip radial T/As, and had a pathetic cumulative 60 foot times of 1.96, 2.02, 2.03, and 2.05.)) Third, I ran 114 race gas, allowing me to run WOT locked at 36 degrees advance. On the street, again advised by FBird, I back out one degree of timing for every pound of boost, using an MSD boost timing master. Referring back to my earlier postings, the parts and tuning described in those early postings remain unchanged, including the boost referenced Holley 600s, the 31 inch Goodyear Eagles, the B & M convertor, and the rear gears of 3.54.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2011, 07:25 PM
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Today, at Woodburn, Oregon dragstrip, my 29 A Tudor ran 10.93 @ 120.83 mph with a 1.55 60 ft. "Thank you hugely" to FBird88, Cobalt327, Deuce, AutoGear, ericnova72, and sqzbox, each of whom posted on my June 2011 request for advice on running a "10" in my SBC blown SBC street rod. Back in June, based on the advice of those just listed, I changed shift points to 5,600 and, instead of powerbraking against the convertor, simply staged at idle, then flashed the convertor with WOT on the last amber. Result: these two simple driving changes moved the best e.t. down from 11.23 to back-to-back 11.023 and 11.007. Away from the track for spine reasons until this weekend, I used the away-time to install a 4,000 stall ten inch A-1 convertor, custom built by this well-respected Vancouver, Washington convertor builder. The switch, also advised by FBird et al. was the final step in running today's 10.93. Congratulations to the collected HBB crew chiefs !!
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:12 AM
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