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Old 02-04-2009, 12:24 PM
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Rear Lower Control Arms, best choice?

My car is 72 Monte, about 400 RWHP

I'm trying to decide on new Rear Lower Control Arms?

Usage: Spirited Street & a little Strip.


I already have the Edelbrock adjustable rear upper arms with front spherical ball ends.


These 3 look good so far: Global West, Currectrac, & BMR

Global West

"Part # TBC-4 --- Best for overall applications and performance.
TBC-4 has overall the best performance characteristics for combining drag, street, and road racing without developing undesirable side affects. The arm design uses Del-a-lum bushings on the rear end side and a spherical bearing on the frame side The Del-a-lum bushing controls lateral movement of the differential while the bearing allows for the rear suspension to travel through it's intended arc without bind. The result contributes to a smooth street ride and amazing rear end stability through corners. As for drag racing, the
TBC-4 controls lateral movement stopping the rear end from shifting sideways during a hard launch. The bearing also eliminates twisting loads on the frame at the lower control arm mounting point."

My comment: Del-a-lum bushings are suppose to be great, but what type & quality are these front end spherical bearings? Exposed to dirt & weather? Not greasable?



Currectrac Rear Lower Control Arms

"The converging 4 link rear suspension on many GM cars and all Fox body Mustangs have a problem. Their geometry requires the arms to flex to avoid binding up the suspension but this same flex can also lead to wheel hop and poor handling. Until now you had two choices,
Use the flexible stock arms or use beefy steel arms with hard bushings that helped the wheel hop but caused the suspension to bind in torsion causing erratic handling. Some attempts have been made to fix this problem with heim ends or steel bearings but they can transmit a lot of road noise to the body and are open to water and road grit so they wear much faster than stock components.

Now there's no more need to compromise! New Currectrac arms feature modular Johnny joints on the frame side to eliminate non linear binding issues. These joints allow a full 30 degrees of flex with no binding and are enclosed against dirt and weather for long life. They have polymer races for noise/vibration isolation, grease fittings and are so durable they are a favorite of the hardcore off-road crowd! All arms are direct fit, feature mounts for a factory type sway bar if required and are protected by a glossy black powder coat finish.

NEW! Currectrac Billet Aluminum lower arms for `64-`72 A body. The same great features as the steel Currectrac arms but much lighter. Finished in black anodizing with CNC machined highlights they also look really trick."

My comment: I don't need pretty Aluminum but, front Jimmy joint sounds great & keeps dirt & weather out. I think that the rear bushings are Poly?? both ends are greasable.




BMR

"Stock control arms are marginal at best. Bushing deflection combined with control arm flex can create erratic handling and inconsistent rear end stability when subjected to the additional loads of performance driving. BMR lower control arms are built with heavy duty 1.5" x 3" rectangular tubing.

For hardcore enthusiasts with cars NOT INTENDED FOR THE STREET we also offer our control arms with Heavy Duty Spherical bearings in place of bushings. We use only the best QA1 Teflon lined spherical bearings with CNC machined cups and bearing spacers."

BCA006 1964-1972 Boxed tube w/HD spherical bearings

BCA007 1964-1972 Boxed tube with poly bushing/HD spherical bearing combo

My comment: NOT for Street? Do they mean that?

Cheapest but is the quality great? Joint exposed to dirt & weather.
Not greasable? + I have read threads about recent QA1 joint quality issues.


All 3 of these have the sway bar holes & I believe my stock sway bars will bolt on to any of these (+- washers?)

I'm not sure that they are worth the extra money over Edelbrock lowers with greasable poly bushings.

The guys selling them want us to think so. I have read a lot of threads on several sites about how a Johny-joint front is beneficial for Spirited driving on curves etc.

It seems to make sense that they will bind with just poly on both ends.

How much more will the rear move left & right, with a joint, is unknown to me?

BMR offers some with a joint on both ends. Street-able ? They say NO to both types.



It looks like the only brand that is designed to keep dirt & weather out of the joint & are greasable, is the Currectrac.

What would be my best choice???

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Last edited by BUFFALOBILLPATRICK; 02-04-2009 at 12:30 PM.
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Old 02-04-2009, 01:30 PM
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I think you posted over at the ProTouring forum as well, no?

I can only tell you about the Currie items from SC&C. My project is not complete yet, but my suspension is done. I installed the Currie Currectrac adjustable billet uppers and the billet lowers - along with the Edelbrock brace for my '66 Pontiac A-body.

They were obviously worth it for me, and they are top quality. There is no deflection side to side that I can see, and the joints move freely. However, since the car has yet to be driven, I honestly can't provide much more than that.
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Old 02-04-2009, 02:40 PM
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Yes, I posted this on 4 boards.

I like the Currie Johnny Joints best, strong, greasable, & keep dirt & weather out.

I have a new plan. I just ordered 2 x Part #: CE-9112

Currie 2" JOHNNY JOINTŪ ROD END W/ GREASABLE BOLT

I'm going to remove the front Poly bushings from a new set of Edelbrock rear LCA's that I have & weld in the JJ outer 2" x 2" sleeves.

All the features of the Currectrac Rear LCA's in steel & less cost to me, as I already have the Edelbrocks.
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Old 02-04-2009, 02:48 PM
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Sounds like a plan. I do really like the billet Currie units, but I also didn't have any Edelbrock ones to start with - only old worn out stock ones. So for me the price difference wasn't enough to deter me from paying for the shiny stuff.
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Old 02-06-2009, 12:43 PM
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Used a little WD-40 & bushings pressed out with no damage.

BUT, the holes are 1.85" NOT 2" as I thought, drat!

bought a $10.00 reamer for my drill press, .075" removal all around should not be that tough (I hope).
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