rear quarter - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2012, 02:25 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: mountain home id
Posts: 65
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 37
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
rear quarter

I am replacing a rear quarter on my 78 elk. I need to cut the sail panel and would like to know the best way to remove the drip rail? The new panel overlaps at the door. How close to the door do I need to cut to get a proper fit?
Any tricks that would make this go together would be helpful.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2012, 12:02 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: loves park il.
Posts: 106
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
on u tube theres a great set of videos called diy autobody with pete, he has a video up thats really close to what your wanting to do. might be a good thing to take a look at . peace
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to inkfreak1976 For This Useful Post:
redsag 78 (11-05-2012)
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2012, 10:01 AM
swvalcon's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: rust on lt body shell
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: mn
Age: 64
Posts: 1,016
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 11 Posts
If your sail panel is good most bodyshops will cut at the bottom below the drip rail and not go to the factory joint. The door I would cut right at the door and let the new panel overlap into the door jam. You may have to do some work there depening on how everything is build to keep your opening right.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to swvalcon For This Useful Post:
redsag 78 (11-05-2012)
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2012, 10:15 AM
boatbob2
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: north florida
Age: 76
Posts: 1,374
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 6
Thanked 24 Times in 21 Posts
Panel,,,,

ONLY use the smallest piece of the new panel you can get away with.stay away from the drip rail,that will only open up another can of worms,been there,done that...as stated before,overlap the new panel onto the door edge (where the original was welded) ONLY if you need to...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to boatbob2 For This Useful Post:
redsag 78 (11-05-2012)
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2012, 03:56 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: mountain home id
Posts: 65
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 37
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
If I cut below the drip rail I have to weld the length of the panel, which is more than spot welds on the top of the panel. Maybe I didn't ask the right question. How do you get the chrome trim off the drip rail?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2012, 06:47 PM
novafreek6872's Avatar
Nova Guru
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Central Va.
Age: 46
Posts: 395
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 76
Thanked 16 Times in 15 Posts
I dont know about an elky, but on a Nova you can tap it off from underneath using a piece of a paintstick and a small hammer. Start on one end and just work your way around
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to novafreek6872 For This Useful Post:
redsag 78 (11-06-2012)
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2012, 12:47 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: motorcity
Posts: 239
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 20 Times in 17 Posts
You can use a church key on some.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	church-key-can-and-bottle-opener.jpg
Views:	50
Size:	112.8 KB
ID:	68978  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to Chevymon For This Useful Post:
redsag 78 (11-06-2012)
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2012, 10:48 AM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 2,075
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 577
Thanked 232 Times in 211 Posts
the other day I saw the guru of our shop using a tiny slide hammer carefully. It actually came of perfectly to my surprise. It also doesn't hurt to sand off all the primer on the edges of the drip rail before painting it so you don't have too much materials in the way of re-installation.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to tech69 For This Useful Post:
novafreek6872 (11-06-2012), redsag 78 (11-06-2012)
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2012, 11:23 AM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 55
Posts: 13,201
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,336
Thanked 1,167 Times in 1,029 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tech69 View Post
It also doesn't hurt to sand off all the primer on the edges of the drip rail before painting it so you don't have too much materials in the way of re-installation.
That is a HUGE tip Henry! Really, that is a monsterous tip! Keep that film build to a minimum!

Especially with todays high solids products. Film build is crazy on some of these products. If you remember I did a little test a while ago using clear as a primer to fill 80 grit scratches (as I remember they were 80) using a mil gauge to check it, that clear filled exactly the same as our primer!

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to MARTINSR For This Useful Post:
redsag 78 (11-06-2012)

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
rear quarter window felt TNnova Body - Exterior 4 09-30-2012 07:10 AM
rear quarter rust pontiac racer Body - Exterior 5 10-25-2008 09:17 AM
Rear quarter window removal? GEARHEADWV Body - Exterior 3 12-13-2006 07:35 PM
rear quarter molding 56-210 Body - Exterior 2 11-02-2003 10:15 PM
63 chevy rear quarter panels shesmy63 Body - Exterior 12 09-02-2003 03:04 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:18 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.