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Old 09-22-2006, 11:41 PM
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I might be better off doing a front clip. There are still a pile of unknowns right now. I suspect that Z-ing the rear will be necessary to bring it down and get the bottom of the differential up level with the frame at ride height.

If I've read everything correctly, going to 17" wheels will allow me to use up to 13" discs. A 245/45-17 tire is about 25.7" in diameter, or 12.85" radius. To get the bottom of the frame to 7" off the ground, I need the axle centerline to be 5.85" above the bottom of the frame. Right? Am I missing something, or trying for something unusable on the street?

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Old 09-23-2006, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneMoreTime
On the front if you stay just behind the crossmember,,kinda like doing a clip then it can save a bunch of work..

Of course on the front you will lose some height in there so you will need to remodle the radiator support and inner fender wells to accomodate the modification...You may need to do something different on the radiator as well...

Good luck..

Sam
How's this sound:

Z the rear to get about 4" of drop before even working on the springs and shocks. In the front, unrivet and remove the original crossmember and cut off the two short pieces of extra frame that act as braces to the crossmember. That leaves those outward bulges of the frame where the original coils seated.

Weld in two short sections of rectangular tubing straight through those bulges. At that point I would have simple, straight frame rails on the inside, but with the weird little bulges on the outside. Those bulges could then be cut off if needed in order to have mounts for coil-overs and have clearance for upper A-arms mounted where the original knee-action shocks were. The lower arms could mount on a new, lower crossmember. Simplifying the frame rails should open the way for kit or salvage front end.
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