rear suspension/Welding on Rear Axle - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Hotrodding Basics
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2006, 08:04 PM
1929 ford tudor
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2005
Location: seattle
Age: 35
Posts: 10
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
rear suspension/Welding on Rear Axle

I am building my First rod, a 29 ford tudor. I have started laying out my rear suspension and had a few questions. My frame is steped up in the rear 11" and im running coilovers and 32 radius rods with a panyard bar on a 9".

My first question is, I have everything measured out and tacked in place, ready to weld. Im shure that heat will warp the axle/housing when i weld the new brackets on. not to mention the cutting and grinding to get the old ones off. how can i check that? and can it be fixed? is it ok to weld brackets on while the axle is assembled or should i break it down to the housing?

-Ive have heard that you can have an axle checked and streightend but i am not shure where

any feedback for a new builder would be great!

    Advertisement

Last edited by redsin; 05-29-2006 at 08:54 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2006, 08:44 PM
BOBCRMAN@aol.com's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Holly, michigan
Posts: 8,129
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 25
Thanked 267 Times in 250 Posts
It helps if you are experienced with welders/torches. I have seen people warp the crap out of an axle housing, just cutting the brackets off.. If you cut brackets off quickly, with properly adjusted torch and do one, then allow to cool before doing another, you should be OK.

As for welding. Use a good MIG welder or properly adjusted stick welder. . Weld in inch increments and skip from one end to the other. Allow to cool. The secret is not to overheat the tube..

I usually weld on empty housings. That way I can keep the tubes clean inside and out..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2006, 05:12 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Pennsylvania
Age: 54
Posts: 104
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
You should be able to find a chassis/fabrication shop in your area that can check your rear for straight.Go to the local drag races or hot rod show and ask around.
If it is bent too much it will eat up bearings.
The axles and pumpkin have to come out to have the housing checked so it's up to you when you take it apart. There is a jig that has solid bushings that go in place of the bearings and a 1 1/4" or so bar slides through them. If its bent the ends get cut off and welded back on while being lined up by the bar. Around here it costs about $120-150
Have fun,Yekoms
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2006, 05:46 AM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,837
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 86 Times in 73 Posts
If you have the resources make a jig out of heavy angle iron or channel that bolts to each axle flange. This will hold the housing in proper alignment. Follow Bob's recommendations also and you should be fine.

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2006, 08:25 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 183
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
warped rear

Your thinking is right on. I bought a 9"/transverse leafspring kit from Industrial Chassis. Bearing went out in less than 1000 miles. Took the housing to a local 4x4 shop, they fixed the problem- welded on new flanges and put it a whopping press- they checked it by passing a solid rod from one side to the other. Fixed the problem and quieted the rear to boot, Bill
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Hotrodding Basics posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Help Me Identify the Rear Axle in my project? Bud's 27 T Touring Suspension - Brakes - Steering 7 05-29-2006 10:01 AM
Ladder Bar Rear Axle Centering gilesletheren Suspension - Brakes - Steering 6 05-18-2004 11:05 AM
Width of S-10 rear axle? Dreamweaver Transmission - Rearend 1 02-28-2003 12:51 PM
Jag Rear Axle -- almost completed! farna Transmission - Rearend 5 02-28-2003 07:55 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:21 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.