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It helps if you are experienced with welders/torches. I have seen people warp the crap out of an axle housing, just cutting the brackets off.. If you cut brackets off quickly, with properly adjusted torch and do one, then allow to cool before doing another, you should be OK.
As for welding. Use a good MIG welder or properly adjusted stick welder. . Weld in inch increments and skip from one end to the other. Allow to cool. The secret is not to overheat the tube.. I usually weld on empty housings. That way I can keep the tubes clean inside and out.. |
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You should be able to find a chassis/fabrication shop in your area that can check your rear for straight.Go to the local drag races or hot rod show and ask around.
If it is bent too much it will eat up bearings. The axles and pumpkin have to come out to have the housing checked so it's up to you when you take it apart. There is a jig that has solid bushings that go in place of the bearings and a 1 1/4" or so bar slides through them. If its bent the ends get cut off and welded back on while being lined up by the bar. Around here it costs about $120-150 Have fun,Yekoms |
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If you have the resources make a jig out of heavy angle iron or channel that bolts to each axle flange. This will hold the housing in proper alignment. Follow Bob's recommendations also and you should be fine.
Vince |
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warped rear
Your thinking is right on. I bought a 9"/transverse leafspring kit from Industrial Chassis. Bearing went out in less than 1000 miles. Took the housing to a local 4x4 shop, they fixed the problem- welded on new flanges and put it a whopping press- they checked it by passing a solid rod from one side to the other. Fixed the problem and quieted the rear to boot, Bill
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