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Old 09-25-2011, 12:45 AM
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rebuild 327 or find a 350

I'm kinda at a crossroads, I have an all original '68 impala 4-door. I has a 327 in it, the car has been sitting for about 8 years, I have managed to get it running. It runs ok, but I hear lots of ticking and pinging. It really need rebuilt. The problem is budget and wanting a reliable motor.

Should I just rebuild it? or Just find a already built 350 and swap it. What's gonna be cheaper? I can't do the crate thing, nothing would please me more than to drop and LS1 in there, just can't do it.

I need this car to be a daily driver, I know I'm gonna have issues here and there with an old car but it's possible, to do.

I don't care about monster horsepower, just nice sounding maybe with a little lump and thump.

People that have recently rebuilt your 327s what kinda money did you spend and what did you get out of it?


Thanks for reading my rambling post, any advise is helpful.

-Earle

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Old 09-25-2011, 01:18 AM
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if you want it to be worth alot of $$ the 327 is nice to keep if its an original. I say, rebuild the engine. Then throw some bone yard vortecs on, should only run 100 bucks for the heads. Pick you up a good cam, and intake to match.
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Old 09-25-2011, 01:23 AM
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There are more options for the 350 with several different combs you can do for a fix budget. some guys like cubs and lots of torque, someguys dont mind the smaller CID.. the 327 is a nice engine and makes a good street engine or even a race engine with the right goods...unforunatly the 327s do not have as much market as once before so there is less to choose from.. I do like the 327s tho!! I got one myself, but clearly more options with a 350 and maybe a bit cheaper since there are more available parts
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Old 09-25-2011, 01:31 AM
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he is right, a selection of cams were made for the 350, but a mild 350 cam with the bone yard vortecs odd to give your 327 some umph, with a set of headers to match. The mild 350 cam is suggested cause clearly the vortecs have be machined to take over .468 lift if im correct, itl be raunchier than it was when it rolled off the show room floor. Keep the stock carb, pick you up a nice carberated intake to go with those vortecs.
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Old 09-25-2011, 02:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by es79
I'm kinda at a crossroads, I have an all original '68 impala 4-door. I has a 327 in it, the car has been sitting for about 8 years, I have managed to get it running. It runs ok, but I hear lots of ticking and pinging. It really need rebuilt. The problem is budget and wanting a reliable motor.

Should I just rebuild it? or Just find a already built 350 and swap it. What's gonna be cheaper? I can't do the crate thing, nothing would please me more than to drop and LS1 in there, just can't do it.

I need this car to be a daily driver, I know I'm gonna have issues here and there with an old car but it's possible, to do.

I don't care about monster horsepower, just nice sounding maybe with a little lump and thump.

People that have recently rebuilt your 327s what kinda money did you spend and what did you get out of it?


Thanks for reading my rambling post, any advise is helpful.

-Earle
Get the book by David Vizzard, "How to rebuild your small block Chevy". After reading it you will have a very good idea on the tools and skills needed to rebuild your 327.

There's something to be said for buying a good, used engine- but I'd insist on hearing it run before buying it, preferably in a car that can be driven.
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Old 09-25-2011, 07:02 AM
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I'd keep the 327. Since your not looking to build a race engine I'd even keep the heads and intake. If you have to grind the crank it will cost the same as grinding any other crank, but a new one will cost ~$600.00 from all the sources I've searched.
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Old 09-25-2011, 07:24 AM
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In my opinion, rebuilding a generation I SBC is going to cost you about the same $ regardless of the size you start with as long as you are doing the same with each. When you start performance additives is when the cash register starts spinning at differing rates. You have a known running 327. The ticking and pinging is most likely from sitting 8 years, an original high compression motor and sorry unleaded, low octane gasoline. For a daily driver, build this motor back stock (probably an over sized maxi kit will be the big ticket item along with the machine work) and you will have a very reliable motor. Hardened valve seats will be required. Forget the "little lump and thump" for that costs more money and gets old quick on a daily driver.

As an after thought, just pull the heads and check the cylinder wear. If there is life left in them, then really go low budget by taking your heads in for rework including the hardened valve seats. Buy a full gasket kit and remove and replace all the seals and gaskets you can get to and drive.

Trees
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Old 09-25-2011, 08:49 AM
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If your going to put the engine back in the 68 I would do the 327 and keep it all original. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 09-25-2011, 09:04 AM
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Wow, thanks for all the replies. I knew what the answer was before I even asked it. I think I will just rebuild the 327, keep it simple. Now saying that I don't really think there is anything bad wrong with it, just needs freshening. It doesn't even smoke. The only leaks are the rear main seal and the valve cover gaskets. Someone, probably my great grandpa, only changed one valve cover gasket because the other one is still in the package in the trunk.

Where are you guys buying your rebuild kits, back when I was a teenager the best, cheapest was Northern Auto Parts.

Trees, are you saying I may only need to do the heads and gaskets from there up? Because I'm thinking you might be right. As far as lump and thump I was mostly meaning a nice sounding exhaust, because if I don't need a new cam I'm not changing that either.

Would a video of how it sounds help? I have one on youtube if anyone would like to see/hear it but I know it's hard to hear stuff on a video though. It was taken last year, but it was the same this year too.

Also it has a 4bbl carb on it, I do have a 600 Holley with a Holley Contender aluminum intake, I think after I put electric choke on it, that would be a better option than what's on it now. It's currently on a 283 but should work, I think.

Again thanks for the comments, keep them coming. I'm getting pumped now, I just needed a little encouragement I guess.

-Earle


Quote:
Originally Posted by trees
In my opinion, rebuilding a generation I SBC is going to cost you about the same $ regardless of the size you start with as long as you are doing the same with each. When you start performance additives is when the cash register starts spinning at differing rates. You have a known running 327. The ticking and pinging is most likely from sitting 8 years, an original high compression motor and sorry unleaded, low octane gasoline. For a daily driver, build this motor back stock (probably an over sized maxi kit will be the big ticket item along with the machine work) and you will have a very reliable motor. Hardened valve seats will be required. Forget the "little lump and thump" for that costs more money and gets old quick on a daily driver.

As an after thought, just pull the heads and check the cylinder wear. If there is life left in them, then really go low budget by taking your heads in for rework including the hardened valve seats. Buy a full gasket kit and remove and replace all the seals and gaskets you can get to and drive.

Trees
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Old 09-25-2011, 09:12 AM
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Video starting/running

driving in the yard
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Old 09-25-2011, 09:52 AM
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68 327, so it's a large journal, like all 350's are. SO, stick a 350 rotating assembly in the block. It'll still have the 327 "numbers", but with a secret inside.
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Old 09-25-2011, 05:47 PM
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Rear main seal leak is almost a given and they never get better so I would pull the motor, pull the heads and send them for the machine work and pick up a full gasket kit. While the heads are being worked, I would clean the rest of the parts, motor and engine bay. When I know I can put the motor back in without getting dirty, I would replace all the gaskets and seals. By the time this is done, the heads will be ready to put back on, which I would do while the motor is on the stand. I'm betting you have the early Q-Jet with the heat coil choke pull off. The way that engine cranked up and ran in your link indicates I would just leave it alone unless it starts acting up, then I would rebuild it. Leave the Holly for the racers: Q-Jets are for drivers.

Trees
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Old 09-25-2011, 06:16 PM
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I look at it another way.

If the 327 is original, and has collector value, that's why you should pull it, store it, and rebuild it at your convenience for when and if you decide to restore the car.

Buying a solid used running 350 will probably be cheaper than a complete 327 rebuild (if it needs any machine work), so it's a win win.
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Old 09-25-2011, 06:29 PM
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Seems to run pretty good if you ask me...so why even mess with it?

Replace the valve cover gaskets...tighten up the pan bolts. Many rear main leaks were actually valve cover leaks with the oil dripping down the back of the engine... drive it as-is.

If it breaks fix it!
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Old 09-25-2011, 06:43 PM
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i was thinking I wouldn't have to pull it, but it's probabbly easier that way. I have to do something with the powerglide anyway, it leaks fluid just about as fast as you can put it there, mostly through the pan. But that's for another section in the forum.

As far as the q-jet vs the Holley, yes I do think your correct about the heat coil, my great-grandpa told me long time ago it never worked right in it's life, and he owned it since new. I know holley's are generally for racing but I drove my old '65 with it on there everyday back and for to work and high school. I can always rebuild both and see which one I like better, rebuild kits are cheap for those anyway.

I did want to ask one other thing, if it were you would you switch to some kind of electronic ignition? I found this, and thought was neat deal. www.pertronix.com

Thanks for all your help, I have to ask what your favorite place is to buy stuff from? Also thanks for checking the video hopefully you clicked on an ad, cause all proceeds made from that is going towards my build...lol

-Earle


Quote:
Originally Posted by trees
Rear main seal leak is almost a given and they never get better so I would pull the motor, pull the heads and send them for the machine work and pick up a full gasket kit. While the heads are being worked, I would clean the rest of the parts, motor and engine bay. When I know I can put the motor back in without getting dirty, I would replace all the gaskets and seals. By the time this is done, the heads will be ready to put back on, which I would do while the motor is on the stand. I'm betting you have the early Q-Jet with the heat coil choke pull off. The way that engine cranked up and ran in your link indicates I would just leave it alone unless it starts acting up, then I would rebuild it. Leave the Holly for the racers: Q-Jets are for drivers.

Trees
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