[HotRodMan]

I have a 232 6 cylinder engine in a 1973 Javelin, with a 110,000 miles on it. The compression is good, and the motor runs fine. I took the motor out of the car, because the oil light would come on after the motor ran for about 10 minutes. I have disassembled the entire motor and everything looks real good except the bearings and journals on the crankshaft and camshaft. That showed signs of galling and ware, and explains the lack of oil pressure. I am very tempted to replace the cam bearings, cam and lifters, regrind the crank, install new main and rod bearings, replace all gaskets and seals, and put that puppy back in the car.

What would you do - a complete engine rebuild while the engine is out, or just fix what is wrong?

[DoubleVision]

If your going to go that far you may as well go all the way. There`s no point in not replacing the rings while your in there. Think of it this way, you can do the things you pointed out, but how much longer until the rings go and your back at square one?

[sqzbox]

I'll second that! Don't forget the oil pump.

[cobalt327]

With a X-member swap, you could drop a 360 or 390/401 in there...

[345 desoto]

ALL good suggestions. I guess to answer your question, you MUST have the cylinders checked...for concentricity and wear. I-6's usually don't have a problem with egg shaped cylinders, however, there's no real economy in reassembling the engine with new bearings then having to tear it down for new rings, pistons, valve guides, elc. Save your bucks up and have it done right...then drive it for years to come with no worries. But on the other hand, if compression is good, and you put the pistons back in the right cylinders, you MAY be fine, just replacing the bearings...

[sqzbox]

Originally Posted by cobalt327

With a X-member swap, you could drop a 360 or 390/401 in there...

Great idea but their getting hard to find in re-buildable condition. The best choice would be 1970 or prior. You left out the 343 cu in. as most people do.
That was base engine for the AMX in 1968 but took a back seat to the 390 cu in. It was a strong motor in it's own right like the mopar 340 was to the 383/440.

I believe it would be more cost effective to rebuild the 6 banger and keep the car in original shape to retain the car's value.

Just my POV being an enthusiast and ex-racer of AMC's.

[matt167]

360 was used in Wagoneers until 1991, and it would bolt to the transmission being a '73.. going with an engine built prior to 1971?. the trans would also need swapped as the crank snout is diffrent.. assuming an auto even tho most Jav/AMX's were 4spd

[sqzbox]

Yeah, know what you mean about that. Both my 68 AMX and 71 Javelin had cast iron borg warners. I hated them! It really pissed me off when AMC finally put torqueflights in them. Even though my 71 was a 360, It was a first year model demo that came with a 70 engine. I found that out by chance after burning up two valves in 16,000 mi. on reg. gas.

The stirrup shifter in the 71 was cool sort of like GM's.

[imacarfan2]

I think it depends. If you have limited funds, fix what's wrong with it and run it. If you have the money for a rebuild and are happy with the 232, rebuild it. You could do the typical V8 swap, too. A cross-member and some mounts and you're ready to drop an AMC V8 right in, but you'll also need a different rear axle and mostly likely a transmission. And finding a 360 for cheap is still no problem.

In your case, since you have a 6 cylinder and a stick, what I'd do is a fuel injected 4.0L swap out of a Jeep with a T5 behind it and a Model 20 rear out of a V8 powered Javelin. You could run something like 3.54s for a good take off, have the OD for low RPM cruising and have some great power, too. Oh, not to mention some awesome MPG as well! Then, while running the stock 4.0L, you could build a 4.5-4.7L stroker motor for some real fun!

[a1supersport]

Originally Posted by HotRodMan

I have a 232 6 cylinder engine in a 1973 Javelin, with a 110,000 miles on it. The compression is good, and the motor runs fine. I took the motor out of the car, because the oil light would come on after the motor ran for about 10 minutes. I have disassembled the entire motor and everything looks real good except the bearings and journals on the crankshaft and camshaft. That showed signs of galling and ware, and explains the lack of oil pressure. I am very tempted to replace the cam bearings, cam and lifters, regrind the crank, install new main and rod bearings, replace all gaskets and seals, and put that puppy back in the car.

What would you do - a complete engine rebuild while the engine is out, or just fix what is wrong?

It depends on what you intend to do with it. Is this just a "driver", or something you plan on building up later? If it's cost efficient to rebuild it with the "6" as a driver, that sounds best. But if you're gonna "V8" it later, might as well invest in it now.