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Old 06-09-2010, 10:44 PM
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wow, I am doing almost the exact build of the exact engine,,,albeit for a customer. '64 327 outta an impala #'s matchine so everything will "look" factory original. it is the 250 h.p. version the customer wants close to if not 300 h.p. what I DID from the top down:
stock air cleaner, powder coated black with 327 decal
rebuilt original Rochester 4 bbl carb
original 4 bbl cast iron intake manifold, ported runners, Not gasket matched
original 64 cc heads, casting number is slipping by me at the moment fitted with 1.72 valves/
heads have been acid dipped and jet sprayed,new springs,locks retainers the whole nine with 5 angle valve job,we unshrouded the valves,did a 30 degree back cut on the valves opened them up for 1.94,1.5 valves and did a pocket porting, did not polish as I dont really believe in gasket matching or polishing,and resurfaced.
cast flat top pistons 4 v reliefs..03 over
cast rings
resized rods
reground, polished crank
cam is the 350 h.p. cam grind .223/.223/.447/.447 single pattern hydraulic
and then the usual gaskets and other stuff.
the secret here is the head work we couldn't go radical on the cam because remember this is the "250 h.p. stock 327" for his shows
stock volume oil pump as a h.v. or high pressure wont be beneficial
the only DEAD giveaway is the Hei distributor,and hot plugs I figure if he decides to let me Dyno it . we should be flirting with 300 h.p. and all for under $2000 ( I get a deal on the machine work )
so you can copy this build and I hopefully can update you with the dyno pull
HOWEVER to save $ yes go with a set of 062 or 906 heads if originality are NOT a concern they breathe the best and you can salvage yard a pair for $250 new for under $600 but I had to go with the originals for originals sake. but a set of "vortecs" would be SAWEET on a little 327 or even a home built 302
let me know.

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Old 06-10-2010, 09:07 AM
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rebui;ding a chevy 327 beyond basic

sounds nice. I scraped the 250HP heads and got my hands on a set of 462 double hump heads with the 1.94/1.50 valves with double springs that was all redone for $250.00. These heads were in a 67 Camaro with a 350 in it as the heads were cast in Canada which makes no difference at all.
My block is scheduled to go out to be cleaned and honed in 2 weeks as the shop is backed up until then. What I want to do is put a performance cam/lifter kit. I have an Edlebrock performer intake the carb is a work in progress. New oil pump all new bearings new rear main seals gaskets the usual for a rebuild.
What I need now is help in getting a real good cam/lifter kit so when I get the block back I can start the rebuild actual.
The piston rings will be replaced as the pistons I have are in great shape but I will be re-drilling the bolt holes to 3/8 inches to make them stronger.
If anyone can help me with the cam/lifter kit would help a lot.
Thanks for all the help!!!!
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Old 06-10-2010, 09:48 AM
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what is the car, what rear gears, what transmission, what kind of stall do you want to run, what are your HP, ET goals? sorry if you have already answered this but i didn't read ever post just skimed over them. we will need this information in order to help you select a cam, oh and do you want hyd roller, hyd flat tappet, i dont guess by your previous posts and the parts you have you want to solid
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Old 06-10-2010, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zgravity
I will be re-drilling the bolt holes to 3/8 inches to make them stronger.
You might want to consider what is said below, under "Connecting Rods". It's from "How to hotrod small-block Chevys " by Bill Fisher and Bob Waar. This book is old (ca. 1976), so there's a possibility the drawbacks have been overcome- but not to my knowledge.

Better to use ARP 11/32" bolts in your SJ rods (after mag inspection and whatever else work is to be done) then resize them, or just start w/an aftermarket SJ rod w/3/8" bolts from the start.


Last edited by cobalt327; 06-10-2010 at 10:47 AM. Reason: Add credits.
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Old 06-10-2010, 05:33 PM
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Just backing up what Cobalt has posted, DO NOT drill the early 11/32" bolt rods to take the bigger 3/8" bolt from large journal rods, it makes the small journal rod weaker when you drill it out despite the fact that you have added a stronger bolt.

Use the ARP bolts meant for the 11/32" bolt small journal rod .
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Old 06-10-2010, 05:39 PM
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these rod bolts checked out ok I do Concur though as with the bigger bolts have the machinist look at them they may be ok for re use ,,IF you dont beat stupid high rpm's
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Old 06-10-2010, 08:09 PM
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rebuilding a 327 engine beyond basic

Thanks for the advice on the rod bolts someone said to do this sounds like I got bad advice. The rod bolts look new and the rods themselves are in great shape but I'll have them checked out anyway. As far as what kind of car this engine will go in I haven't decided as of yet. If it has an auto it will be a TH400 with a 3000/3500 stall converter. If it has a stick in it nothing but a Muncie will do. I'm looking for a car with either a 10 or 12 bolt rear end posi or I'll get one for it. I'm looking to get 340HP out of the engine which is possible for the 327 but anywhere between 300 to 350 would be nice. The cam/lifter is a hydraulic flat tappet which is what I'm looking at. Any advice on anything different let me know.
Thanks for the advice and will be waiting for more!!!!!
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Old 06-10-2010, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zgravity
Thanks for the advice on the rod bolts someone said to do this sounds like I got bad advice. The rod bolts look new and the rods themselves are in great shape but I'll have them checked out anyway. As far as what kind of car this engine will go in I haven't decided as of yet. If it has an auto it will be a TH400 with a 3000/3500 stall converter. If it has a stick in it nothing but a Muncie will do. I'm looking for a car with either a 10 or 12 bolt rear end posi or I'll get one for it. I'm looking to get 340HP out of the engine which is possible for the 327 but anywhere between 300 to 350 would be nice. The cam/lifter is a hydraulic flat tappet which is what I'm looking at. Any advice on anything different let me know.
Thanks for the advice and will be waiting for more!!!!!
Definitely have the used parts checked out. You could be looking for trouble if you don't. as for the cam and lifter combo, it would be better to plan for what type of car it will be going in, light or heavy, autmatic or stick. Are you planning to do any porting work or not. I built up my 327 as a solid roller motor putting out about 500 HP. I built it around my 63 chevy impala a 4,100 Lb stick car. So my motor was designed around this. I know you are talking a tappet hydraulic lifter, have you thought about going with a hydraulic roller lifter motor. I have that in another build and i have to say I love it, never would go back to flat. In the solid roller motor I have a bullet cam with comp solid rollers and the same in the hydro roller. I like bullet because you speak to Dave Partridge and he will walk you through the various combos and he put's out a quality product.
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Old 06-10-2010, 08:33 PM
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400 h.p. is possible with that little revver , but heads are key to any engine (flow AND compression) especially if your runnin 3000+ stall remember chevy built a 365 h.p. version for the vette 40 + yrs ago so 400 today should be ice cream to hit. look at the lunati and comp's line up they have a muscle car grind or a roller retro fit couple that with some afr's , a good set of headers, forged slugs with at least 10.0-1 c.r. and yer set find a little chevy 2 or an early fifties c10 and HOLD ON
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Old 06-15-2010, 06:34 AM
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rebuilding a chevy 327 engine beyond basics

update:
I just finished putting the 462 (64cc chambers) heads together, new seals locks ect. The car will be a 1965 Chevelle SS with an auto in it and 12 inch rear end. It has a 350 out of a Vette in it right now but that engine will be taken out rebuilt and sold as I'm just doing all the gaskets. I have been looking at the Lunati line of cams and lifters since I got the 327 and have heard nothing bad about them. I have to go as my budget dictates and buying the SS put me back plenty time wise and money wise, so the engine rebuild will be slower than expected. If I go with the roller cam and lifters upon which your input is most desired, I need input as to what I should do with the pistons and rods. Should I stay with the flat top pistons and original rods or put in a set of domed pistons and new rods, this one I had in the back of my mind for a few weeks. This is the first engine I'm rebuilding and at my age should have been my 50th or more so any advice is welcome as long as it's in basic language that I can somewhat understand. I need to keep the compression up there and gain HP with this build which you all get. I know I can do it with all your help. so thank you in advance and I'll keep you all updated on my progress.
One problem that I'm having is taking the timing chain sprocket off the crank shaft as it feels like it's welded on there as the sprocket puller won't budge the sprocket at all. Can I heat the sprocket up and try to pull it off or should I let the machine shop do it for me? Please let me know what I should do.
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Old 06-15-2010, 09:19 AM
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forget the 327. you will spend more and make less power with less durability (flat tappet cam).

start with this engine. http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/pts/1792624301.html

it is in you area. he is asking 500 for the engine. offer 400 or 450 and sell your 327 for 100 to 150.

the engine already has vortec heads and has a roller cam set up.
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Old 06-15-2010, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zgravity
One problem that I'm having is taking the timing chain sprocket off the crank shaft as it feels like it's welded on there as the sprocket puller won't budge the sprocket at all. Can I heat the sprocket up and try to pull it off or should I let the machine shop do it for me? Please let me know what I should do.
Heating the gear is fine. I will (in stubborn cases) tension the gear w/the puller, then hit the gear w/a propane torch- avoiding letting the flame contact the crank snout as best as you can so you don't cause IT to expand, too.

When the critical point is reached, the gear will suddenly move. At that point- and being careful as heck to not burn yourself (leather gloves are recommended)- use the puller and the gear will all but fall off the end of the crank.
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Old 06-15-2010, 02:45 PM
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read this.

400hp for a grand.

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...ild/index.html
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Old 06-15-2010, 08:11 PM
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rebuilding a chevy 327 engine beyond basic

Thanks for the advice on the crank pulley. Will do that as soon as the heads are finished sometime tomorrow.
A 350 is not an option for what I want to do as the car I'm putting it in is a 65 Chevelle SS and the 327 was the engine that went in it from the factory. I'm going to be replacing a Vette 350 engine with the 327. Thanks anyway for the advice you provided maybe the next build I'll do the 350 as I may just keep the Vette 350 and just rebuild it completely.
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Old 06-15-2010, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zgravity
Thanks for the advice on the crank pulley. Will do that as soon as the heads are finished sometime tomorrow.
A 350 is not an option for what I want to do as the car I'm putting it in is a 65 Chevelle SS and the 327 was the engine that went in it from the factory. I'm going to be replacing a Vette 350 engine with the 327. Thanks anyway for the advice you provided maybe the next build I'll do the 350 as I may just keep the Vette 350 and just rebuild it completely.
Funny thing when I build a motor I agonize more about that then when i proposed to my wife. The motor like I tell her is just so permanent. Going back to the hydraulic roller cam, I feel you can't go wrong with Lunati. I believe the roller lifters are made by morel, so that is not a bad thing. For me flat top is the way to go, domed is so 1988. You will get good solid power with that. If you go with the hydraulic roller keeping the cam profile you were talking about would be 40-50 more horsepower. I think with that combo this motor would put out at least 410 HP versus 360-370 HP and be more streetable. As for cam profile I say to call their tech line and speak to them and they could suggest some combos for you. I would say call a few times speak to some different tech guys and see what they say. As for distributer I am using a MSD-8360 which does not require an ignition box. What is really nice about it is you can use a stock appearing distributer cap thus keeping it stealth looking. As for carb I would shoot for around the 750 CFM range. If you want to keep it semi original looking get an edelbrock AFB carb and bead blast it to antique it and to the casual person they would not know it. That is another trick I use. The next question is the type of rocker arms you are looking to use. Again I would suggest Harland sharps, I have one set that has over 50K miles and not a problem yet, and they are reasonably priced. As for timing chain something with a Torrington roller thrust bearing. For me I use comp cams 7100.
For your parts if you want to save money I use Summit Racing, since my local speed shop could be better service wise. What is great about them is a reputable company and they will match other parts place prices. Just call it in and they will looks it up on the internet and beat the price right there.
I look at in the end you get what you pay for. I see someone suggest procomp heads which are cheap over seas knock offs which have had it's issues. Just do a google search and you will see what I am talking about. I build for the long term. The first motor I built for my impala was in 82 which was driven 150K and hit the track on a regular basis. The only reason why I rebuilt the motor was I had a midlife crisis LOL and decided to go for more horsepower. In the end you have to be happy.
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