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Old 05-20-2010, 07:04 PM
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rebuilding a chevy 327 beyond basic

I'm rebuilding a Chevy 327 engine. It is a 250HP version and want to make it a higher horse power engine.
The engine is all apart and the block is a standard bore which will not change. Crank is good heads are in good shape cam will be replaced.
This is the first engine rebuild I am doing and will be looking for advice on what I should get to make this engine deliver more horse power without going broke.
The more parts I can keep the better even if I have to modify them.
Thanks
Zgravity

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Old 05-20-2010, 07:12 PM
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Then the answer is simple, how much is your budget?
Did you have a machine shop check the bores to be sure it don`t need bored? If not I surely would.
What are you looking for the engine to do?
What are the casting numbers to the heads?
There`s a cheap way to gain some ponies and there`s the expensive way, there really isn`t a inbetween. One good piece of advice I can give since this is your first build and this is often over looked. Before you build and you give it a wash job you must scrub the bores with a heavy duty cleaner and a toilet brush. Hone grit impregnates into the bores and it`s difficult to get out, but if it`s left in it`ll wear the rings very quickly as well as the bearings.
Once you scrubbed a bore spray wd40 on a paper towel, if you see gray on the towel the bores not clean.
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Old 05-20-2010, 08:38 PM
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rebuilding a 327 engine beyond basic

thanks for your reply. the budget is around 200.00/month since I'm retired. The bores were checked out by my friend with a cylinder bore gauge and they were within specs. it will be going to the machine shop in 2 weeks for a good cleaning. Thanks for the advice on cleaning the residue from the honing we gave it a week ago. Can you suggest a detergent or will any do?
The casting on the heads is 3795886 cast on 1-7-1964.
I'm looking for this engine to be fast as it will be going into a regular Monte Carlo non SS as a sleeper. So to get 300HP or better would be nice. I have some ideas that I'm tossing around now and will be posting in the future As to intake, carb, and looking to either rebuild my heads or buy used heads that are already rebuilt.
Thanks for your help so far am greatful for all the help I can get.
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Old 05-20-2010, 08:39 PM
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Marvel oil works well for cleanimg too. Porting heads intake swap headers cam and ignition and carb tune should get you an easy extra 100 hp and add 1000 dollars to a rebuild.
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Old 05-20-2010, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zgravity
The casting on the heads is 3795886 cast on 1-7-1964.
Double check the casting number- I believe you will find it to be 3795896. These heads have the small 1.72" intake valves and 60 cc chambers, according to the info HERE.

To get 300 plus HP, the heads won't cut it, as-is. By the time you got those heads (or any other heads for that matter) to flow decently, reconditioned them, valve job, etc., you could easily start out w/a L31 5.7L Vortec long block that has heads capable of 400 HP w/o much work or cash.

If the 327 is going to be used anyway, a set of worked 416 heads originally from a 305 might be a viable choice, or a set of fulie heads (w/accessory bolt holes if you want to use a long water pump set-up).
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Old 05-20-2010, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
To get 300 plus HP, the heads won't cut it, as-is. By the time you got those heads (or any other heads for that matter) to flow decently, reconditioned them, valve job, etc., you could easily start out w/a L31 5.7L Vortec long block that has heads capable of 400 HP w/o much work or cash.
This is probably the best advice you'll get on here.
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Old 05-21-2010, 06:36 AM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
If the 327 is going to be used anyway, a set of worked 416 heads originally from a 305 might be a viable choice, or a set of fulie heads (w/accessory bolt holes if you want to use a long water pump set-up).

I would go this route if cost is a concern.
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Old 05-21-2010, 06:50 AM
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Did a 1967 block 327, call it a mild build, vortex heads, performer cam, matching manifold, was balanced and blue printed, new pistons ..

Its dyno spec 333.7 hp and 358 ft lb ... just some information
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Old 05-21-2010, 10:13 AM
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I know the days are almost gone were you can find treasure in a junk yard but it's worth a try. In my day of junkin I found three different sets of camel back heads. One set being the big valve ones. You never know until you look...and it's fun. My first rebuild was the original 327 out of my caprice. Had a mild cam aimed for trq, dual plane performer RPM, 650 carb, headers, and ported camel backs. Never had it dynoed but I was very pleased. It made that big car a 5.0 killer in the early-mid 90's.
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Old 05-21-2010, 01:18 PM
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Just using the 1.94" Camel back heads a high rise dual plane manifold with a 600VS holley will give you 300HP. That is what chevy 327/ 300HP were made.
That is using a plane jane stock cam.
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Old 05-21-2010, 07:20 PM
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rebuilding a chevy 327 engine beyond basics

Thanks for the advice. I'm scrapping the heads as a friend has a set with 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves all done which has the acc bracket bolt holes.
I have an Edelbrock performer RPM aluminum intake manifold. The carb will come later. what I need advice on is the Cam/lifter kit. there are 2 that I'm looking at. One is the Lunati voodoo 60103LK and someone mentioned the Summit Racing K1105 which is close to the L-79 Cam that Chevy used in the High Performance 327 with 350 horse power. I'm thinking about changing the pistons as the rods are in excellent shape for their age. Any advice on that move? Once again Thanks for the advice/help cylinder wall cleaning starts Sunday and with lots of scrubbing hope to get them cleaned real good.
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Old 05-21-2010, 07:44 PM
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A definate smart move would be to replace the rod bolts with ARP bolts and have the bearing bore resized. The 327 rods have smaller 11/32" bolts rather than 3/8" like all later rods. There would be no way I would use stock rod bolts with unknown history and mileage on them, ... ever.
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Old 05-22-2010, 03:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zgravity
Thanks for the advice. I'm scrapping the heads as a friend has a set with 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves all done which has the acc bracket bolt holes.
I have an Edelbrock performer RPM aluminum intake manifold. The carb will come later. what I need advice on is the Cam/lifter kit. there are 2 that I'm looking at. One is the Lunati voodoo 60103LK and someone mentioned the Summit Racing K1105 which is close to the L-79 Cam that Chevy used in the High Performance 327 with 350 horse power. I'm thinking about changing the pistons as the rods are in excellent shape for their age. Any advice on that move? Once again Thanks for the advice/help cylinder wall cleaning starts Sunday and with lots of scrubbing hope to get them cleaned real good.
First, what is the casting number on the heads you're going to get?
Next, can you describe the piston crowns? Is there any flat area on the piston crown that could mate up with the flat part of the cylinder heads to form a squish generator?
Next, how far down in the bore is the present piston at TDC?
Next, what pistons are you considering buying?
If you will help me out here, we can determine the exact static compression ratio of the motor and help you make an intelligent cam decision based on that information.
Next, what kind of cam were you interested in? Hydraulic flat tappet, Solid flat tappet, Hydraulic roller, solid roller?
Next, do you have any problem with using a 3000/3500 stall converter and some stiff rear gear?
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Old 05-22-2010, 04:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zgravity
thanks for your reply. the budget is around 200.00/month since I'm retired. The bores were checked out by my friend with a cylinder bore gauge and they were within specs. it will be going to the machine shop in 2 weeks for a good cleaning. Thanks for the advice on cleaning the residue from the honing we gave it a week ago. Can you suggest a detergent or will any do?
The casting on the heads is 3795886 cast on 1-7-1964.
I'm looking for this engine to be fast as it will be going into a regular Monte Carlo non SS as a sleeper. So to get 300HP or better would be nice. I have some ideas that I'm tossing around now and will be posting in the future As to intake, carb, and looking to either rebuild my heads or buy used heads that are already rebuilt.
Thanks for your help so far am greatful for all the help I can get.
Are you sure the last three numbers are "886", and not "896"? Went through all my books and different websites...no 886. The 896's are essentially power-pack heads used on 283's and some 327's. Every 283 I had, had those, or the 520 heads on it from the factory. You'd be better off selling those and take whatever you get from the sale, and invest in a better set.

P.S. Locally, our machine shops do two types of cleaning. Either thermal-cleaning, or jet cleaning. Every time I had a block thermal-cleaned, all kinds of "pores" opened up in the bores....then I'd have to bore it out. From then on I stayed away from thermal, and just do jet.
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Old 05-22-2010, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zgravity
Thanks for the advice. I'm scrapping the heads as a friend has a set with 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves all done which has the acc bracket bolt holes.
I have an Edelbrock performer RPM aluminum intake manifold. The carb will come later. what I need advice on is the Cam/lifter kit. there are 2 that I'm looking at. One is the Lunati voodoo 60103LK and someone mentioned the Summit Racing K1105 which is close to the L-79 Cam that Chevy used in the High Performance 327 with 350 horse power. I'm thinking about changing the pistons as the rods are in excellent shape for their age. Any advice on that move? Once again Thanks for the advice/help cylinder wall cleaning starts Sunday and with lots of scrubbing hope to get them cleaned real good.
Better check the casting numbers, and find out what the CC is on the chambers. Just being big valve is'nt everything, and nothing if you lose compression. Your Power Pack heads were probably 60 cc chambers, "most" later model factory heads are 76 cc chambers; and that will kill compression. Butch/junior stocker.
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