[JesseShredd]

Rebuilt engine, has 7000 miles on it. Replaced an engine with oil leak in #1 chamber. When running hot it burns oil just like the first, could this be due to oil from the last Sbc remaining in the pipes? Also what comes to mind is that there is no clearance between my y pipe and oil pan...not sure if that could be related. Engine is also running at 230-240 degrees with fan on. Thermostat is fine, water pump is new, not sure what the issue could be. Any opinions are appreciated! Great to be part of this board! -Jesse

[JesseShredd]

Sorry, didn't make it clear what I have. 1992 camaro rs. 1978 Sbc, edlebrock performer intake manifold and 1406 carb, flowtech headers and y pipe.

[OneMoreTime]

Did you do the build??? Need some history here...
Sam

[JesseShredd]

I didn't do the rebuild. It was professionally done. I do know he installed umbrella seals. I'm assuming once the engine is up to normal running temperature, its just burning all the feud from the cat, back. Inside my tail pipes are thick of black crud.

[S10 Racer]

Are you having to add oil at any specific time? At 7000 miles, I would think all the crud would be burnt out of the exhaust by now.

[JesseShredd]

Didn't mention that I bought the engine with 7000 miles on it and just put it in. Have not ran the car on the road, just in the driveway. Does not smoke until 230 degrees.

[JesseShredd]

And I have not noticed the oil getting low.

[jmacs53Willys]

I had a similar situation with my 357 sbc using an aluminum intake on iron 041heads and felpro intake gasket set. When my engine got hot and then cooled the intake swelling from the heat would literaly tear the gasket allowing oil to leak into the combustion chamber. I know it sounds funky but after installing new intake gaskets that have metal in them the tearing stopped and thus the oil burning. The heat must also be dealt with asap. Mine smoked noticably and was freaking me out with all the dough I spent meticulously assembling my motor. I thought I knew everything but this was a learning lesson for me! I will find the part # of the gasket set that only cost $10 from my machine shop here in Portland and post it as soon as I can. Cortect I think is the MFG? Timing can effect the overheating also, you might want to confirm you are where it should be for your cam. I run at 11 degrees and added a cross flow aluminum radiator that cured my problems. 400hp, th400 (chirpomatic), 373 10 bolt open gear (crash prevention). Posi coming though! Hope this helps.

[JesseShredd]

That would be great, or if you can recommend something similar that would help. This sounds like a good investment to make regardless cause I am using felpro intake gaskets.

[JesseShredd]

Also, since the car had a v6 stock, I'm assuming the radiator and fan cant support enough cooling for my current 350 5.7? Gonna be driving in a week so I would like to have this all squared away.

[TexasDave]

Did they replace the PCV valve?

[JesseShredd]

The valve is the same since I already had the manifold and carb, just threw it on but it looks brand new and no oil is in it after running to normal temperature.

[FmrStrtracer]

YES, you need a V8 cooling system.

Are you just letting the car sit and idle until it gets Hot? You should at least have a house or shop fan blowing across the radiator.

Before you start swapping parts, check the timing, pull the plugs and inspect them. Also do a compression test to check the condition of the motor.

Report back and we'll help from there.

[JesseShredd]

I have the fan wires to a killswitch which I leave on all the time while running. Timig has been set, compression is good, spark plugs are in good shape also last time I checked.

[JesseShredd]

Will be replacing the intake manifold gaskets with edelbrocks. I will let everyone know how it turns out. In the meantime, Amy suggestions on what to do about the engine running hot would be appreciated. I let all the air out of the system yesterday, which didn't make a difference.