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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-12-2011, 06:02 PM
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just wondering...

is the carb "CHROMED"????? if so i think u may be buy'n a new one... a friend had similar problems and found out the chromer screwed up... $300 later it runs fine..

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Old 07-12-2011, 11:16 PM
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by chance are you running a ballast resistor?

Lets break this down. You need three things; Air, fuel, & fire.

You say it starts but quickly shuts off. Is it abrubt? or idle poorly and dies? What's your fuel pressure? Could be a chance that your carb is flooding and putting the fire out.

Another possibilty if running a Ballast resistor is; when the key is truned over to start it supplys the coil with 12V when its in run it runs it back through the resistor to "numb" the voltage to the coil. a very weak to no spark would explain why its dying. At least Mallorys are like that. MSD I think gets 12V at all times. Im betting money on the carb though. Next time you try to start it and it fires and dies and wont start again take a plug out and see if its wet and smells like fuel.

Last edited by 72Hondo; 07-12-2011 at 11:29 PM.
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Old 07-12-2011, 11:31 PM
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e boseze

another fella & I rebuilt '60s ford bus for a church in mexico with mex. parts would not run.... finaly tore it down and sure'enuf timing mark was 180 off. pulled it and had about the same air pressure fron carb as exhaust.... fun tho!
lol
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Old 07-13-2011, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72Hondo
by chance are you running a ballast resistor?

Lets break this down. You need three things; Air, fuel, & fire.

You say it starts but quickly shuts off. Is it abrubt? or idle poorly and dies? What's your fuel pressure? Could be a chance that your carb is flooding and putting the fire out.

Another possibilty if running a Ballast resistor is; when the key is truned over to start it supplys the coil with 12V when its in run it runs it back through the resistor to "numb" the voltage to the coil. a very weak to no spark would explain why its dying. At least Mallorys are like that. MSD I think gets 12V at all times. Im betting money on the carb though. Next time you try to start it and it fires and dies and wont start again take a plug out and see if its wet and smells like fuel.
When I had the 305 in it ran perfectly. Used the same HEI distributor, MSD 6 AL box, Carter Carb. I was thinking it was the carb too,but if I adjusted the pushrods too tight would it give me the sane symptoms, where it would start, idle rough and die. Also if I get it started, if I give it gas it doesn't rev up, just idles rough. Or do you think timing is still off?
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Old 07-14-2011, 06:27 AM
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All of the things you mentioned are possibilities. It is time to eliminate things one at a time. I would start with the valve adjustment. Valves that are too tight can cause all kinds of issues and eventually can cause permanent mechanical damage. If eliminate things one at a time you will find the issue. There are several threads here on adjusting valves properly. Search for one and follow the procedure and see how it runs after that.
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Old 07-18-2011, 12:53 AM
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Readjusted valves. Engine is getting a little better. Stays running a little longer but idle is still very rough. I noticed some smoke coming out where the intake mates to the head. I think the gasket might not be sealing. If so would this cause a rough idle? Will try and get to this tomorrow.
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Old 07-18-2011, 06:11 AM
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rough idle

a slipped gasket thats leaking will give u a idle problem.. very lean in a few cyl's. looks like u really need to pull it and replace it. try some rtv blue around the intake/head areas, just put some one a smear it around with your finger,don't need alot.
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Old 07-19-2011, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delawarebill
a slipped gasket thats leaking will give u a idle problem.. very lean in a few cyl's. looks like u really need to pull it and replace it. try some rtv blue around the intake/head areas, just put some one a smear it around with your finger,don't need alot.
Took off the intake and yes one of the gaskets slipped. Changed it out and now it sounds a lot better. Problem is I think my timing is still a little off. If I turn my distributor counter clockwise as far as it can go, it starts but still a little rough.
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Old 07-20-2011, 06:36 AM
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bad idle

for a quickie, u can move all your plug wire one slot in the direction u move the dizzy and that will give u more movement to play with.. u can leave them there or pull the dizzy and reinsert to alin again.
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Old 07-20-2011, 01:14 PM
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Wouldn’t / Couldn’t you pull the number 1 plug and use a piston stopper / feeler to get the piston to TDC and then check make sure the distributer rotor is also pointing at the number 1 position?
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Old 07-20-2011, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delawarebill
for a quickie, u can move all your plug wire one slot in the direction u move the dizzy and that will give u more movement to play with.. u can leave them there or pull the dizzy and reinsert to alin again.
This sounds like a good idea. If this works then I will redo the timing. I hope it works.
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Old 07-20-2011, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pukas84
This sounds like a good idea. If this works then I will redo the timing. I hope it works.
Oh, you will be retiming it, of that I can assure you. One terminal difference on the cap = 45º at the distributor, which is 90º at the crankshaft.
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Old 07-21-2011, 12:16 AM
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So I moved the plug wires one terminal counter clockwise and engine started up. I had to keep on giving it the gas to keep it running. if I let off the gas the engine dies. Is this now an idle problem with the carb? Can I leave the plug wires like this or do you recommend me to retime it?
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Old 07-21-2011, 01:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delawarebill
is the carb "CHROMED"????? if so i think u may be buy'n a new one... a friend had similar problems and found out the chromer screwed up... $300 later it runs fine..
I doubt a chrome carb is his problem but I guess it's possible (Not very!!!).
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Old 07-21-2011, 04:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pukas84
Got a used 350 2 bolt and rebuilt it, new pistons, vortec heads, cams,
There's only 1 cam in that motor. What lift/duration is this cam?

Other than improper assembly such as your intake gasket mis-alignment, I suspect you may have a cam timing or valve adjustment issue.
I suggest the following:

(For a stock/mild aftermarket duration/lift hydraulic cam profile engine only)

1- Remove valve covers, loosen all rocker arms past ".000" clearance, and remove #1 spark plug.

2- Insert a long thin object such as a drinking straw (or screwdriver if you be carefull) into the #1 spark plug hole in order to monitor #1 piston physical position within the cylinder.

3- While keeping the straw/screwdriver from binding within the motor, manually turn crankshaft in the normal operating direction (CW viewing from the front-to-rear) until #1 piston is at top dead center after exhaust stoke.
At this exact point, the #1 exhaust valve should have just closed and #1 intake valve just starts to open)(The term for this position will be referred to as "rocking" for the remainder of these instructions).

Note: When locating the #1 piston to top dead center, if the piston is at top dead center on compression stroke the rocker arms will not be "rocking" and you'll need to rotate the crankshaft another full turn (360 degrees) in order to get the rocker arms in the correct position.

Important!!! The exhaust valve should have just finished closing and the intake valve just starting to open when the piston is at exactly top dead center. If not, your camshaft timing is set incorrectly.

If cam timing is correct, set the distributor rotor position to exactly 180 degrees opposite of #1 plug wire position and temporarily tighten the distributor (which will now have the rotor pointing to #6 on the distributor cap (for your 350 small block chevy motor)

4- Adjust #6 intake and exhaust rocker arms to "0" clearance + 1/4 turn for hydraulic lifters.

5- Next: Looking at #8 rocker arms, turn crankshaft until #8 exhaust valve just closes and #8 intake valve starts to open (rocking). At this point, adjust #5 rocker arms to "0" clearance + 1/4 turn.

6- Next: Looking at #4 rocker arms, turn crankshaft until #4 exhaust valve just closes and #4 intake valve starts to open (rocking). At this point adjust #7 rocker arms.

7- Same procedure with #3 rocker arms "rocking" and adjust #2 rocker arms

8- #6 rocker arms rocking, adjust #1 rocker arms

9- #5 rocker arms rocking, adjust #8 rocker arms

10- #7 rocker arms rocking, adjust #4 rocker arms

11- #2 rocker arms rocking, adjust #3 rocker arms

12- Now you'll need to loosen the distributor housing and turn '~10' degrees counter clockwise in order for the base timing to be close to spec. (a timing light may be needed to set correct base timing later according to specs for your motor/application).

13- Replace valve covers and re-install #1 spark plug

14- Crank the engine and run at ~ 1500-2000 RPM until hydraulic lifters adjust. (the motor may miss or the valve train may rattle (or both) upon start-up until the lifters adjust. Give it ~ 1-2 minutes for this to take place).

Hope this helps.

Mike
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