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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 07-23-2011, 03:03 PM
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Yea take the #1 spark plug out put the plug wire back on the spark plug, leave the key on so it has power, hold the dizzy in one hand and hold the spark plug against the lip of the head. You might have to clean the oil n gunk off it for a good arc. Turn the distributor until you see it spark against the head. When I did mine I had to turn it very sharply for it to spark, so turn it in short little jerks and then set the dizzy in the place it's at when it sparks.

After that put your screw driver in the plug hole n do what mike said, then time it with a timing light and set the valve lash.

Valve lash is set after torqueing the springs until you can almost turn the push rods, when they won't wiggle anymore give it another 1 to 1 half turn. How many turns is determined by the set valve lash. Get a haynes rebuild book on your engine from your local auto parts store. Torque specs are also in those books .

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2011, 01:03 AM
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Finally

Finally got motor to run on its own. Again my timing seems a little off. But question: my valves needs to be adjusted again. Is it better to adjust them while the car is running? I think it is a little easier, don't have to take out spark plugs, etc. Do I readjust the valves before I start breaking in the cam, of after. Thanks.
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Old 07-31-2011, 10:32 PM
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bump

Quote:
Originally Posted by pukas84
Finally got motor to run on its own. Again my timing seems a little off. But question: my valves needs to be adjusted again. Is it better to adjust them while the car is running? I think it is a little easier, don't have to take out spark plugs, etc. Do I readjust the valves before I start breaking in the cam, of after. Thanks.
Any advice? Thanks
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:06 PM
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Another thing to add is that a 305's harmonic balancer is at tdc at the 12 oclock position where a 350 is at 2 ish.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2011, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pukas84
Any advice? Thanks
If you can adjust them with the motor running all the better, but it's usually messy with oil going everywhere. Back 'em out one at a time till it ticks, then bring it to where it doesn't thick, then add a quarter turn. Keep the engine running about 2000 RPM for half an hour, do not let it overheat use a house fan to blow air into the radiator if necessary.

An old trick was to use an old rocker cover cut about in half to catch the oil coming out the push rod end of the rocker, this helps a lot but certainly not completely. You may want to cover the exhaust with aluminum foil to reduce the smoke and fire hazard from oil getting on the exhaust.

Bogie
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2011, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pukas84
Any advice? Thanks
Adjusting the valves w/the engine running at an idle is fine to do if the cam is broken in already. But one of the most important things when breaking in the cam and lifters is to not allow the engine to idle. Even a short amount of idling can cause grief.

Adjusting the lifter preload (or valve lash if a solid lifter) is done before the engine is started for the first time if the cam is new, especially. The timing is set statically to have enough advance to allow for an easy start up, then the timing can be set closer to where it needs to be while the engine runs for the first 20-25 minutes at >/=2000 RPM, varying the engine speed all the while. Insufficient ignition advance can cause the engine to run hot, and while it can be shut down during the break in procedure, it's generally better to complete the cam break in during one session if possible.

HERE is a page on cam break in.

HERE is a page on adjusting hydraulic lifters w/the engine off.

HERE is a list of valve train points to check.

Last edited by cobalt327; 12-19-2011 at 05:33 PM.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2011, 10:28 PM
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I did not know you could run a HEI dizzy with a MSD 6-AL box???????

Seems like a mismatch of components.

Don
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