[RichieB]

Hello!

I'm swapping a Borg Warner Super T-10 trans into my 86 Corvette, to replace the Doug Nash 4+3 trans. (The swap uses a special adapter to mount the transmission to the Corvette torque beam.) Trans is already in and new driveshaft is installed.

An Ohio rebuilder did the rebuild. The trans shifted into all 4 + R gears on the bench, using a 6" Crescent wrench to shift it. Now, when it is in the car and I am trying to select neutral for all gears, I can't get it to shift into any gear, nor reverse either.

No fluid in trans yet; driveshaft turns freely (wheels are off the ground). This would seem to indicate that I am in neutral.

I've read elsewhere that new synchro rings will make a trans shift stiffly for a while.

I'm ready to adjust the shift rods, but before I put the exhaust & X-braces on I'd like to make sure I didn't accidentally nudge two gears together...

What's a safe way to make sure I don't have a gear selection problem???

Thanks for your help!

[RichieB]

Update: A member on another forum asked whether I was using my hand to push the gear links; I said yes; he suggested putting a visegrip on the link instead. With the visegrip the reverse link snicked right in; I can't get to the other links with the visegrips...

I went ahead and filled the gearbox with 90w gear oil; fitted & adjusted the shift rods; turned the driveshaft a couple times...I'll try taking the alignment pin out and shifting it with the Hurst shifter; maybe it'll free up...

[Classic 52]

This may sound a little farfetched but I had a similar proplem after installing a GM T5 into my Flathead powered '52 F1. After wrestling the trans into place, finished hooking up starter, etc and installing the driveshaft, I realized I could not shift the transmission no matter what I tried. The next day and out of desperation, I took a pry bar and pried the driveshaft yoke rearward about a half inch or so and Presto! Problem resolved! I know this seems a bit simplistic but it may be all you need to do. I hope so 'cause I know how frustrated was.
Good luck

[AutoGear]

I'd like a little clarification.

What shifter are you using? and more importantly, from your 1st post, it sounds like the unit shifts without the shifter, and when you install said shifter, shifting becomes practically impossible?

[RichieB]

Originally Posted by AutoGear

I'd like a little clarification.

What shifter are you using? and more importantly, from your 1st post, it sounds like the unit shifts without the shifter, and when you install said shifter, shifting becomes practically impossible?

No. There is no shifter connected to the transmission. I shifted it by hand on the bench using a 6" Crescent wrench. Now it is in the car and the links are bolted to the fork shafts. I am trying to push the links to shift gears. The trans is bolted to the engine; clutch installed; throwout bearing slips freely on the trans snout. Driveshaft turns freely. I can now shift in & out of reverse with a visegrip. I can't get the visegrip up to the 1-2 & 3-4 links to try it on them.

[timothale]

Do you have the right pilot bearing in the crank and is it pressed in the right distance. You might be binding on the input shaft end of the trans.

[RichieB]

Originally Posted by timothale

Do you have the right pilot bearing in the crank and is it pressed in the right distance. You might be binding on the input shaft end of the trans.

I believe so. It is a 'clutch kit' by LuK, the original equipment mfg'er...Pressure plate, friction plate, throwout bearing, pilot bushing, and butt plug...Bushing is pushed in all the way. Trans went in with no problems; no hangups, no binding...

I'll hook up the shifter on Thurs and see if that works.

I guess my question was if the synchro rings would 'stick' when new...It's been 35 years since I rebuilt a manual trans...I can't recall if they 'stick' or not...

[lmsport]

Is there clearance between the shifter links and the side cover???...ie, did the shifter link bottom out on the side cover locking the link in place.

And what is a butt plug?

[V8&4spd]

Do you have any pictures? It sounds like the linkage. The linkage can be off just a little bit and you will have trouble shifting. The transmission has to be in nuetral before you adjust the linkage. Some of the leavers might say out on them,they face away from the transmission. Unhook the shift rods from the bottom of the shifter and see if you can move them by hand.

[66GMC]

Does this exploded view help?

The Richmond Super T-10 is a four speed countershaft helical
gear transmission synchronized in all forward gears. First and
reverse are constant mesh to prevent gear clash. Strut-type
synchronizers are provided for longer life and easier shifting.

#47's are the "Detent Kit" (1-2,3-4, and R)

If I understand the operation (and I think I do) if the front two levers are in the center detented position, the trans will be in neutral. Correct? I'm not entirely sure about the position of the reverse lever .... straight down would be the disengaged position?

I would think that it would be safe to assume that all 3 levers should be pointing straight down in order to be in neutral.

[66GMC]

Originally Posted by lmsport

...
And what is a butt plug?

Please, for the love of God, man ... don't Google that.

[RichieB]

Originally Posted by lmsport

Is there clearance between the shifter links and the side cover???...ie, did the shifter link bottom out on the side cover locking the link in place.

There is clearance; I can wiggle the links back & forth by hand, they just don't go far enough to engage the gear...It might just be that I can't get a good grip on them to move them...I can't get back to the car until Thurs; I'll try connecting the linkage [shifter rods] and try it then...

And what is a butt plug?

Short splined plastic plug you use to hold up the friction plate while bolting the pressure plate on...It engages the pilot bushing & friction plate, has a loop on the end...Looks like a sawed-off input shaft...

Thanks for the replies!

Still wondering about the synchro rings sticking...

[gmc1990rodder]

BUTT PLUG ?? WOW!! Here in florida we call it a clutch alinment tool... buuut I like butt plug better

[AutoGear]

Sometimes a ring can get forced on the cone or jostled and 'stick' but that doesn't seem like your problem. This takes quite a jolt and usually happens during shipping. Most people's new car transmissions (back until probably the late 80s) had this and they never knew, however applying engine torque pops the ring off and all is good. However this is one gear and it will lock the transmission up (when trying to turn it by hand). My inclination would be something in the sidecover or pilot. Pics would help.

[RichieB]

My employer let me go after only 8 hours of work today, instead of the usual 10 - 12...So I got the shifter rods attached & adjusted...

Lowered the car, removed the shifter neutral adjusting rod, and tried the shifts...No go...

I was a bit irked...I got in the car and pushed the [hydraulic] clutch in to the firewall...and tried shifting again...

Eureka!!! It shifts!!! All 4 gears plus reverse engage now!!!

I have no idea why engaging the clutch should free up the gears...but it does...

My heartfelt "Thank You!" to all who responded to my panicstricken pleas here!!! Even if the ideas presented weren't the answer, they did prompt me to consider other alternatives that I might not have thought of...

BTW, here's a pic of the trans installed...