[TurboS10]

Originally posted by KP'n It Real
agreed. camaroman70d is just a hotshot know it all most of the time. dont bother to argue with him.

I think you should watch your step. Trolling is not something we put up with here. Camaroman7d is one of the most knowledgable guys on this board. He also has real world experience and not just magazine expertise. Clean up your act or leave.

Chris

[87442lover]

Yeah.. We all already know I'm an *****, but what is with this new guy?

Camaroman7d seems to be pretty cool, and if I remember right the last "argument" I had with him he was right.... I think.....

[camaroman7d]

Wow, I guess I missed the action, I didn't even know I got flamed. LOL

Thanks for watching my back guys.

I won't bother to reply to the junk that was said.

As far as the race gas vs. pump gas, if your engine is tuned perfectly for pump gas pouring in race gas "should" make no difference. I bet in the cases it did make a difference you were probably experiencing some detonation (which will rob power). Either that or your timing was not where it should have been for pump gas. That is my take on it. We can agree to disagree, I have no problem with that. Matter of fact I think I will fill up my lawn mower with 110 and then I can cut the grass in half the time, LOL


I would have to see it with my own eyes on the dyno with a controlled test.

Now if you told me you filled up with race fuel and bumped the timing up, I would agree more power could come from the same engine by using the race fuel AND adjusting the timing. The power increase in that case would be due to the timing not actually the fuel, the fuel would just ALLOW you to run more timing.


87442lover, we have bumped heads a few times, it's good to know you don't take it personal (neither do I) This is what hot rodding is all about. You even had my back, with the troll


Royce

[syclone]

Now if you told me you filled up with race fuel and bumped the timing up, I would agree more power could come from the same engine by using the race fuel AND adjusting the timing. The power increase in that case would be due to the timing not actually the fuel, the fuel would just ALLOW you to run more timing.

Well this could have possibly been done being that I was not there to witness everything. Maybe I will dig out the sheets and check that. But in either sense fill your lawn mower and I will fill my tiller we will see who comes out on top lol

[2wld4u]

well, I have an update on this project, I started out wanting to put this in a S-10 body, well, the frame doesnt look so hot and I have been car hunting the past couple days...I finaly found something I like but........I need some parts...HELP! lol I found a 65 El camino and I really, really, like it. The problem is the side glass, back glass, was broken out about six months ago..I want the car but I cant seem to find glass for it..

If I can get the glass and a few other parts together I believe this will be a good home for my pump gas 383 and I may get a rock crusher 4-speed with it...

I do have a serious question to ask you guy's, Id like to get 500hp out of the 383 but with the 65 Im afraid I wont have enough torque, I have no idea what the weight is but im guessing it isnt light, with the parts I have do you guy's have any suggestions on the build to help insure I wont have any soggy bottom end issues.. I'll use at least a 3.73:1 rear gear but I really want this one to turn out right, its one of my all time favorite cars and I dont want to fugg it up...

thanks guy's...2wld4u

[87442lover]

Originally posted by stepside454
Aluminum bearings ? WTF
I think anyone would know forged pistons are obvious & a roller valvetrain to for that matter. Eagle rods? kinda general remark, dontcha think? I mean Eagle is an ok rod...& they do make a low cost standerd issue Ibeam rod & also a Hbeam. Oh well, those comments were from the guy who says he hates Chevy guys.

So your questions may be answered.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=FEM%2D4281M

Oldsmobile main aluminum bearings, take more abuse and wear and tear than standard "lead".

[badknuckles]

that's great but he isn't building an old's

[87442lover]

aaaaa.............. oh.

I know I saw chevy ones somewhere.

[badknuckles]

no offense but keep in mind everytime someone posts a question about there motor or car in general they don't give a rat's *** about the old's comparisons.
im just sick of hearing you compare everything to an old's

[camaroman7d]

syclone, LOL

2wld4u, you shouldn't have a problem getting glass for that El Camino. Very nice cars by the way. I don't think it is as heavy as you think it is. I don't know the weight off hand, but I would guess 3700lbs or so. It is a good choice to hot rod (full frame). The problem is getting them to hook, it can be done though.

As far as your 383 goes you should have plenty of torque, if you go with a manual tranny then you should be able to launch the car/truck. If you go with an automatic make sure you pick a converter that will put you in your power band at launch.

I didn't go back and read the whole combo, so I am not sure what the concern is. If I remember right you have 220cc runners and plan to use a Vic Jr, both of those are not the best choice if you want to build a torque engine. You can't have your cake and eat it too, you are shooting for 500-525 HP (on pump gas) in order to get there you will probably have to give up a little bottom end your power band will probably be in the 3500-6500 range. The Vic Jr and large heads should work OK but, if you want more torque I would have went with smaller runners 190-200cc and maybe a Performer RPM. Since you already have the heads, use them and gear, cam, stall, etc.. accordingly. Just make sure your combo is well matched (that is the key to success).

Royce

[TurboS10]

I have to dissagree a little bit on the manual lauch idea. The engine you are talking about building will not have real good off idle torque. On the street, I think this will make the car feel somewhat sluggish when compared to an automatic. Since you spend most of your driing time with a standard below that magic 3500RPM number I think you might be dissappointed. At the track, you can launch it alright, but that rock crusher will likely send the main shaft into the pavement if you try too many high RPM launches with slicks.

I would suggest an automatic and as much converter as you are willing to put up with. I think a 10 inch on the tight side would make you the happiest. It will let the engine run in its torque range and give you some torque multiplication where it is below peak.

Chris

[2wld4u]

this 65 isnt stock..lol it has been as quick as 7.010 in the 1/8 so yeah, it will hook, and that was with a 11:0:1 327, I know the car, I use to race against it, and this is what lead me to this being one of my all time favorite street/strip rides, I figure it weighs around 3200, the s-10 was going to be around 2800 so the 65 is definatly heavier..

yeah, I kinda want to drive this one on the weekends to crusies and get togethers so I will need to pay speacial attention to the combo, I have the Pro topline 220cc alum heads, I have since ported a weiand stealth dual plane that is capable of 500hp, I will use a "tuned" 2" spacer. as for the headers I have decided to use 1 3/4 steped to 1 7/8 longtubes with a 3 1/2 inch collector, and a true 3" dual exhaust system...

I thinking of using a Dr. gas 3" x-pipe and 3" spin Trap mufflers also from Dr. gas...

I have decided to go with a solid flat tappet (custom grind)

the carb will be a Holley HP 750 and Ill use a Msd Billet distrib, 7al2 and pro HVC coil.. ( the upgraded ignition is for the possibilty of nitrous down the road)

the rear will be a 9" ford with a 4.10 gear, and 28x10.5 super soft McCreary DOT's..

the tranny is still in question and I have thought about a richmond 5-speed, but I really like the close ratio munci tranny's so I may have one "pro shifted"

this is my idea for the 65 and all comments are welcome, nothing is set in stone yet, for the exception of the longblock...383 11:1 and the pro topline 220cc heads... also I wont use a hdy cam, roller or flat tappet, sorry fella's Im a solid kind of guy...lol

so what do you guy's think? will this live up to my expectations for the 65? a true street/strip ride with the abilty to go out a have some fun on the street...

at the track I expect this 383 will pull hard to 7200, and possibly beat that 7.010 with some giggle gas later on, Im looking for a 7.6 @ 2800 feet N/a and Im going to try and do it with the ported stealth, I may have to go with a single plane to get the full potential out of it, but Id rather use the dual plane on this one untill I feel the need to spray it..

Im being as realistic as I can, secretly Im hoping to get close to 7.010 N/a, but Id really dont want to be disapointed...

sorry for rambling, I spent 14 hours driving yesterday and im still kinda tired...



thanks, 2wld4u

[Cstraub]

If you go solid flat, go with a set of EDM lifters. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND them.

Chris

[machine shop tom]

Originally posted by 87442lover
aaaaa.............. oh.

I know I saw chevy ones somewhere.

You're right. Almost all of the OEM's and Federal Mogul, King, ACL, and others are changing to a high-silicon content aluminum material. I've seen many OEM engines with 150-200 thousand miles on them with little or no bearing wear that utilized this bearing technology. I have been selling the F/M brand for some time now and the quality is outstanding.

tom

[2wld4u]

Originally posted by Cstraub
If you go solid flat, go with a set of EDM lifters. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND them.

Chris

thanks chris, I look into it...