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Reclocking a CS130 alternator

6K views 8 replies 4 participants last post by  joe_padavano 
#1 ·
Is it a demanding process to reclock a CS130? I've been looking all over to find some instructions on how to do it, but have struck out. I was able to find quite a few threads and videos describing how to clock a 12SI, but not a CS130. I assume it wouldn't be the same, but perhaps it is.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks - Jim
 
#4 ·
Getting the alternator apart without upsetting the brushes is tough. Besides it's easy enough to pin them in place while reinstalling the front half. Pulling the case apart is a good opportunity to clean out and repack the bearings.
This is the inside of the 12Si I went through for my van build. You can see how dry the bearing was. you can also see the brushes hanging out of the holder and the little round hole in the holder.

Here you can see the pin I used to hold the brushes out of the way while I cleaned and repacked the bearing. It is coming through that little round hole in the brush holder.

From the outside you can see the "bent paperclip" I used to hold the them in.

I reclocked mine while I had it apart. Cleaned and painted it with Hammertone silver.

Mark
 
#5 ·
Ours is actually a new alternator, so I'm hoping it doesn't need any type of service yet. Also, I'm thinking I might have mislabelled the thread because now that I relook at the specs, this is listed as a DREI130 -

Product Detail - 91313 DREI130 New Alternator | Remy

Maybe a DREI130 is the same/equivalent as a CS130 - I'm not sure.

It is rated as 130 amps. We were running a 'true' CS130 prior to swapping this engine into another chassis. The last car, Astre (Vega look alike) had to have a SWP due to radiator clearance, but the G-body we have now is quite spacious under the hood. It's like working in a barn as compared to the Astre underhood pantry. I can see from your pictures you're running a SWP and I remember the pain of clearancing the motor with the accessories. Also, we (my son) is adding a high mount turbo to this so grabbing a LWP and mounting the accessories lower was a great option.

This alternator was the only OEM one I found with the mounting at 12 and 6 o'clock. I've found some more since, but it was less than $80 from Rock Auto; it is listed for 5 years worth of Vettes and that's it.

Thanks for the help - Jim
 

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#7 ·
Ours is actually a new alternator, so I'm hoping it doesn't need any type of service yet. Also, I'm thinking I might have mislabelled the thread because now that I relook at the specs, this is listed as a DREI130 -

Product Detail - 91313 DREI130 New Alternator | Remy

Maybe a DREI130 is the same/equivalent as a CS130 - I'm not sure.
It is the same. Be aware that there are two versions of the CS130 case with the mounting bolts at 12:00 and 6:00. One is spaced correctly to bolt to an older style GM alternator bracket and the other has the holes too close. I know from first hand experience that the version used on the late 1980s H-body cars (FWD versions of the Olds Delta 88, Buick LeSabre, Pontiac Bonneville) have the correct spacing. You just need to swap the serpentine pulley for an older V-belt pulley. These versions came in 85 amp and 105 amp configurations. You can buy them from RockAuto for about $80 or so. Delco P/N 3342355A is one.
 
#8 ·
JOe,
Using your method allows for not having to mess with the brushes. I removed the three (not 4 on a CS130) and the pulley nut and pulley and just spinning the forward part of the housing worked great. I held the rear section in a vice. It took less than 5 minutes. Thanks again.:thumbup:
 
#9 ·
Glad that worked for you. One more thing to be aware of. The CS130 requires a good ground path to the rear housing where the electronics are. If your brackets don't bolt to the rear housing, run a ground strap. This will prevent a burned out regulator when corrosion starts between the aluminum housing and steel stator frame. There is a TSB out on this from GM.
 
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