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Old 06-27-2009, 10:19 PM
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Recoat 2K Primer or straight to Slealer

OK... Applied PPG SX1071 Etch, Then DLV 8005 2K primer. Now wet sanding with P600 and got thin enough to see the etch in spots. I will also need to apply some glaze in a couple of spots.

So... do I need to apply another coat of 2K primer and sand again before sealer or can I just go straight to sealer and paint? Is that trying to short cut things. I am using DLV 8085 true sealer and then soon as flashing painting color.

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Old 06-28-2009, 12:12 AM
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A lot of money.

I would have wiped on some DX 520 SG metal conditioner then rinsed.
Sprayed generic 2K primer. Sand. Respray 2K primer on panels I cut thru. Sand till flat.
Sprayed Base coat. then Clear coat.

I don't use sealer because it adds an extra layer of texture and dust.

I would not use any glaze unless it has a catalyst. Can't you just shoot the slightly low spot with 2K primer instead of the glaze?

Since you cut thru, you can spray the cut with sealer to see if edges lift. If edges don't lift then shoot your sealer. Closely inspect sealer for lifting pre base coat. Check for lifting again post base coat.

On panels that you repaired with glaze/catalyst I would reshoot 2K.

Last edited by 001mustang; 06-28-2009 at 12:22 AM.
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Old 06-28-2009, 02:49 AM
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Hmmmm... No sealer because of texture? Don't take this the wrong way, you have been very helpfull, but the cost of the etch and primer is not a concern. It is an investment to making sure the finish is good. Lift I don't think will be an issue. The sealer I think is aproved for right over the etch. I will have to check but I am pretty sure. I need to use glaze and it has a hardner. It would be crazy to try to use the primer for the small imperfections that are left. Sorry... I apreciate your help.
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Old 06-28-2009, 12:22 PM
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The 2K says a minimum after sanding film build of 1.5 mils. Maybe I should be applying another coat of 2K before the sealer. Any other opinions?
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Old 06-28-2009, 02:38 PM
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Lift occurs with some paint systems when minimum film thickness is not maintained.
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Old 06-28-2009, 02:48 PM
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Thanks. I am thinking that reshooting the 2K after using some glaze is the best bet.
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Old 06-28-2009, 03:13 PM
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Don't forget that excessive film thickness and layers can lead to problems as well as making repairs more difficult.
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Old 06-28-2009, 03:18 PM
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i shot epoxy then 2 k . i had a few spots to fix and a few spots i used dolphin glaze on. i have now sanded the car and iam going to shoot it with 2k again then i can check it before paint.
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Old 06-28-2009, 04:17 PM
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I used to shoot epoxy followed by 2K.
I mostly quit using the epoxy because it sometimes causes more problems than it solves; there are cases where I still use epoxy.
It doesn't seem like epoxy adheres to metal better than 2K primer or 2K filler.
I like to minimize products on substrate to facilitate repair down the road.
BC can lift the DP epoxy if proper film thickness is not maintained; So be careful when you cut through.

Last edited by 001mustang; 06-28-2009 at 04:47 PM.
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