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Recommended Gun for Shooting SPI Universal Clear???

17K views 32 replies 15 participants last post by  69 widetrack 
#1 ·
I know that threads re spay gun recommendation have been done to death and after reading dozens of them, I am more undecided than ever.:confused:

(1) I am a DIY hobbist - NOT a pro;
(2) Will be shooting three cars at most, spread over a couple of years;
(3) Soliciting recommendations re the best gun (and tip size) FOR the PRICE to shoot SPI UNIVERSAL CLEAR COAT ONLY;
(4) I stress again that THIS GUN AND TIP will be used ONLY be shooting SPI UNIVSRSAL CLEAR COAT;
(5) I am more than willing to pay the price for a GOOD gun, but do not want to "overkill".
(6) I know that the final results are mostly dependent on the guy using the gun, but I also know and believe you guys when you say that using a good paint in a good gun gives better results;
(5) I would also be greatly appreciative of any and all advice/recommendations re air pressure, reduction, flash time, compatibility, etc. based on your actual experience, that you would be willing to add in addition to the EXCELLENT instructions and information that Barry K. already provides in the Tech Sheets and on the outstanding SPI website.

I would appreciate any and all help.:thumbup:

Tom
 
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#7 ·
devillbis guns are quality guns for cheap. I'd look into those guns in the $250 range. Most guns recommended would be good for atomization but the main question is, what kind of painter are you? Do you want fast strokes (1.4 tip) or do you want a slower more forgiving gun that's harder to run(1.3 tip)? This is yet another question to ponder before purchasing. Good luck and my recommendation is to look at the devillbiss line of guns and ask around about them. Nothing is as good for as cheap. Also, sharp finex isn't that bad for a guy that's only gonna use it a handful of times.
 
#8 ·
I have a Devillbiss Finishline lll for an all around gun and when I don't want to do a full blown cleaning job on my Iwata. You can get 4 different tips and I have all - and have used that gun for everything from lacquer primer (yuk!!) to polyester spray filler and everything between. Works great and have ~ $200 invested for a quality gun. The HF purple guns - work well for some folks, but not me so will not recommend it - it's also, an air hog which means lots of overspray which means wasted paint - my shop has a fair amount of paint speckles from my experiences. Astro also makes a fairly good gun in the $70 +/- range.
 
#9 ·
I would maybe try one of the cheaper guns untill you see if paining is something you want to do. You can always turn it into a primer gun later if you want to buy something more expensive, I just got a awtia 400 that works great but was over $600. Look at it like you would going deer hunting just because you bought the best most expensive gun there is dosen't mean your going to bag the biggest buck in the woods.
 
#11 ·
I used a gun with a 1.4 tip to spray base and SPI uni clear for years Then I got a deal on a nice gun with a 1.3 tip and although it saved a lot of base material it wouldnt spray the SPI uni clear well at all so the best all around tip would be a 1.4....
When I was starting out you wouldnt believe what crappy guns I used and got great looking jobs with so it really dont matter if your only using it once in a while Oh yeah all those guns were syphon types too.I was probably one of the last hold outs to use a gravity gun with the cup on top ,they just looked funny to me and I never thought they would catch on ,I've only been using them for about 1o yrs.
 
#12 ·
Thanks for all the comments, recommendations and advice!:thumbup:

I've decided on the IWATA LPH400-LV gun with the Silver Air Cap. It is overkill and I will probably never do it justice, but figure "what-the-H*LL" - at my age I feel that I deserve it, so I'm gonna' "treat" myself! :drool::rolleyes:;)

At least I will not be wondering if I could have done better with a "good" gun!!

Thanx again,

Tom
 
#15 ·
and if you groan later at the cost, just remember, you can't take the bucks with you anyhow.
.

Could not agree with you more!!:thumbup:

The way that I'm looking at it is that our Daughter, Son-in-Law and Grandkids bought this for "Grampy"!:cool::cool: (LOL)

BTW: I have a couple of the HF guns that I use for Primer and Base Coat. I have "opened up" the fluid nozzels a little to make a 1.6, a 1.7 and a 1.8 depending on what I'm trying to shoot. I've also got a HF 2.0 Siphon Feed Gun that I LOVE for heavy primers. I try to NEVER cross-contaminate the guns. At the prices of the HF stuff that's do'able. That's why my "plan":rolleyes: is to use the IWATA for ONLY Clearcoat.

Thanx again for all the help.

Tom
 
#16 ·
.

depending on what I'm trying to shoot. I've also got a HF 2.0 Siphon Feed Gun that I LOVE for heavy primers.

Tom
I too have a HF siphon gun - and use it for somewhat thinned house paint. Not a brush mark in sight. I do have to clean the nozzle occasionally, but with latex, a brush, soapy water and 4-5 minutes and back to work

Good to hear that the grand kids are giving you something useful. My ten GC - sigh. How many shirts can a retired OF wear.

Dave W
 
#17 ·
Good to hear that the grand kids are giving you something useful.
Well, to be completely honest - it's a "preemptive strike" on my part by spending some of their inheritance!:rolleyes:

While I love them dearly, I want them to be a little sad at my passing; not too busy enjoying counting the zeroes on the estate settlement checks!!:mwink::mwink::mwink:

Tom
 
#19 ·
FYI the iwata lph400 are guns that need proper setting and new way of spraying. They take less air and need to be sprayed closer to the panel and at a slower pace. I have one and have mix.feeling for theme I can sometimes get great results and sometimes get really bad results. So practice and practice before you attempt a whole car.
 
#23 ·
"FYI the iwata lph400 are guns that need proper setting and new way of spraying. They take less air and need to be sprayed closer to the panel and at a slower pace. I have one and have mix.feeling for theme I can sometimes get great results and sometimes get really bad results. So practice and practice before you attempt a whole car.

Setting for iwata are 18 to 20 psi Intel, 3 turns showing on the fluid needle 5-6 inches from panels. And medium movement."

The air cap says 16psi inlet = 10 psi for HVLP or LVLP, the gun can handle 300psi, so you can adjust it to fit your personal preference unless you're LEGALLY REQUIRED to use HVLP. Check your local air quality control board first.

Some clears will like the 1.3 tip, some need the 1.4 tip, I have not used any clears that need a 1.5 tip.

It's a great gun, personal favorite for clears, tone it down as low as you can use, it really does save on materials quite a bit. It puts the paint on the panel, not in the filters.

Have fun with it.
 
#27 ·
I know this is an older post, but I was wondering if anyone had ever sprayed the 1:1 or 4:1 SPI with a non-hvlp 1.5? I have a 1.5 that I LOVE and have really good results spraying other 4:1 clears with but I have never used the SPI. I hope to try it soon and the only 1.4 gun I have I use for base only. Anyone have any insight as to how well the 1.5 may work? Or go for it and see lol. I attached a pic of a hood I sprayed today with the 1.5. I will leave the name brand out but it is a value line of a major brand $100 a gallon 4:1 clear. Thanks in advance :)
 

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#29 ·
carolina',

If you don't get any other replies, contact Barry K. at the phone number given on the SPI website. SOOOOOOOOPER guy to talk with and will help you any way he can.

GOOD LUCK!!!!

Tom

Thanks, I have been talking with Barry about trying the SPI product line and didn't really even think of recommended tip size. I just happened across this thread and figured I would try to get some input from someone who had tried it. I know most people would say a 1.5 is a bit excessive :D, but its just what I learned to spray with and it gives good results.
 
#33 ·
It's rare to see two painter's that paint exactly the same way, yet often the results are similar...You like a 1.5 tip...Move fast and probably use 50% to 60% overlap....I like a 1.3 for most clears...I overlap 75% to 80% and have been told that I don't put clear down that fast...it's not right or wrong, it's what works for you.

Your right about trying different or new products before spraying the product on what matters, this way you learn what the product does and what's required to get the finish your looking for.

Ray
 
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