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Old 06-27-2005, 06:47 PM
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Recommended paint brand for 1st project?

I'm almost ready to paint the firewall of my project. I was wondering what brand of paint may be best for me to use. I'm planning on trying my hand at painting the whole truck, but I need to start with the firewall before I start to assemble the brakes and running gear. I'm thinking of a dark color (likely black which may be a curse...especially on my 1st project) I want a solid enamel that I can wet/ color sand and buff after several coats. (I figure this is the best type to use if I want to spray in my garage or driveway and still end up with decent results in the end) I also realize the body has to be arrow straight..also a challenge for my 1st....but we'll get there.

Any thoughts from the pros?

Thanks in advance.
Gear.

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Old 06-27-2005, 07:48 PM
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I would suggest a good quality acrylic urethane rather than an enamel. They're much more durable, they don't take multiple coats to cover and look good, and you can color sand and buff them to a very high gloss finish.

Some of our paint pros may have additional suggestions.....
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Old 06-27-2005, 08:06 PM
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Why not go with a bc/cc system, they are soo easy to repair if you have problems, you cant beat the UV protection for the color itself, they sand easy and buff easy.. If you are going to use black then I would suggest Southern Poly Urethanes.. You can buy a whole gallon of the base for less than $100 and can get a gallon of clear for less than $100... Trust me when I tell you that company makes great products and the owner BarryK who is our resident paint expert on the forum is the best in the business.. You cant beat this guys products for price, quality, and the customer service.. I have been so impressed I am switching everything over in my shop to SPI with the exception of bases I need for collision repair... Here is the link http://southernpolyurethanes.com/homepage.htm

Here is the link for the 1-800# http://bakerpbe.com/

You can ask many people on this forum and they will attest to the products and Barry.. I think you should look into it... One last thing.. the shipping is much lower for me to receive 3 boxes and over 4 gallons of product, than it is to get 4 ounces of pearl delivered to my door from somewhere else.. That is something to consider as well... Shipping cost... From Georgia to Kentucky for all of that was like 25 dollars..

BTW black is really not the worst color to paint.. you can paint panel by panel and never have to worry about it matching as long as you have good coverage

Matthew
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Old 06-27-2005, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BondoKing
Why not go with a bc/cc system, they are soo easy to repair if you have problems, you cant beat the UV protection for the color itself, they sand easy and buff easy.. If you are going to use black then I would suggest Southern Poly Urethanes.. You can buy a whole gallon of the base for less than $100 and can get a gallon of clear for less than $100... Trust me when I tell you that company makes great products and the owner BarryK who is our resident paint expert on the forum is the best in the business.. You cant beat this guys products for price, quality, and the customer service.. I have been so impressed I am switching everything over in my shop to SPI with the exception of bases I need for collision repair... Here is the link http://southernpolyurethanes.com/homepage.htm

Here is the link for the 1-800# http://bakerpbe.com/

You can ask many people on this forum and they will attest to the products and Barry.. I think you should look into it... One last thing.. the shipping is much lower for me to receive 3 boxes and over 4 gallons of product, than it is to get 4 ounces of pearl delivered to my door from somewhere else.. That is something to consider as well... Shipping cost... From Georgia to Kentucky for all of that was like 25 dollars..

BTW black is really not the worst color to paint.. you can paint panel by panel and never have to worry about it matching as long as you have good coverage

Matthew
I will testify to this, I bought well more than enough paint/clear and applicable reducers/activators for my car from Barry and paid under $280 once everything was shipped, turned out great
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Old 06-27-2005, 09:08 PM
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Thanks guys. I figured the clearcoat would be problematic if there was dust or foreign matters trapped within. I'd like a dark metallic red or a pewter, but figured I could never pull it off making black the choice (red interior - black, red, silver are my only options....white is definitely out) Perhaps my options are widening? Remember it will more than likely be painted outside on a calm day
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Old 06-27-2005, 09:26 PM
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Some of the cleanest paint jobs I have ever had were on a calm early early morning right outside my garage door... I have had less paint defects that way than sometimes in a booth... You will be suprised at how easy it is to paint outside... there will be some here that may not agree, and think you should only do this indoors, but many of us who have been doing this for a minute or two have done the "Great Outdoors" paint job with great success...
If you get a bug in single stage, you may sand through to the primer before you get it out, if it is in clear and you hit base then you simply spot in your base and reapply clear to the panel... Easy fix
Best of luck to ya.
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Old 06-28-2005, 10:16 AM
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Wow... I had no idea it could be that easy (sounds easy at least....We'll see I guess) Thanks for the great input and links to that site guys.


Gear
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Old 06-28-2005, 11:11 AM
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Chances are you're not going to be satisfied with your first attempt and the job may require some colorsanding and buffing to get the desired results. With a metalic color like you're wanting a basecoat/clearcoat system would be the way to go. You can't really do very much sanding and buffing on a singlestage urethane or enamel metalic. Single stage metalics can be some of the most difficult paints to spray with tigerstripes and mottling being common problems. Bob
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Old 06-28-2005, 12:29 PM
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just like everything, you get better with practice.

paint isn't cheap, i don't care which brand you use. But if you want the best results possible, buy a half gallon or even better, a whole gallon, of whichever you want, and use it to practice with. your thinking, 'this guy is telling me to piss off at least 200, most likely closer to 300 dollars practicing???!!! is he crazy or what???' if you don't, you really will be disappointed, you need to know how the paint works. by work, i mean sprays, flashes, lays out, and how your gun shoots/adjusts....etc etc etc.... trust me, I am no pro, never will be, but i am capable of good results in my own shop.
and for what it's worth, my next paint job is going to be done using SPI paint.
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Old 06-28-2005, 09:23 PM
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That's why he's called Crazy Larry.

You can get Nason base and Nason Select Clear fairly cheap for practice but for the price SPI gets for it's primo products,your $$$ ahead to use them besides the "spoiling" factor of shooting good paint instead of,well,you know.
Granted,they don't have a base color line and the Nason metallics are fair paints,so if you can lay a pewter or silver metallic out on some junk panels,your on the road to success.
I almost cringe anymore when someone want's a single stage paint.
BC/CC is SOOOOO much easier and forgiving,Mishaps are part of painting and it fairly easy to make repairs with base/clear.
I'm kinda like the Grumpy Jenkins of paint,I've figured out just about every way possible to screw it up to get it right.
Don't be afraid to do base/clear,It's alot easier than you think.
Besides,You got us to help you.
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Old 06-29-2005, 02:12 PM
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Yes I repainted a quarter on a mustang the last night that was AE, the paint job is only like 3 years old and faded sooo badly... I borrowed a little lazer dry from Jim clark and turned the AE single stage paint into a base coat and then cleared right over it in 30 minutes... It is a much better finish than is on the car... They still had some of the original paint or some someone had gotten for a match, anyways it was an easy way to ensure a more correct match since they just wanted the panel painted and not blended...

you can always buy some Acyrlic Enamel and the lazer dry and practice with it as your bc/cc system... Smartshoppers sells it and a cheap clear... It is not top of the line, but it is a cheap practice paint
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Old 06-30-2005, 05:14 AM
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Hey Bondoking, you keep mentioning my name and people are going
to start to think I know what I'm doing, just because I'm old enough
to be your dad doesn't mean I'm any expert. I'm still learning from this
forum just like most others here.
You're the man, (painting everything in site including boats)
I think you will be showing some of us what to do when we have problems.
You do good work-I've seen it. (son)
Now, if we can just get you to paint in the daylight hours
instead of all night!!! You Vampire painter!!!
(they only come out after dark)
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Old 06-30-2005, 05:16 AM
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Cool idea! What is the mixing ratio of lazer dry to AE? Do you think this would work with metallics?
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Old 06-30-2005, 05:30 AM
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It mixes one to one, and yes I have painted my car with this and
it was a metalic. It's held up great and is more than 3 yrs old.
Most major brand paint suppliers have a product like this for their
own acrylic enamel. The Lazer dry suggests you add a little hardener
to the enamel when using it. The acrylic enamel I got from
Smart Shoppers was less than $50.00 a gallon, I painted a full size
Grand Marquise with it and have a quart left over. It may be a cheaper
line of paint but you would never know it by looking at it.
I think the "lazer Dry" is pretty universal and could be used with other
brands.
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Old 06-30-2005, 05:45 AM
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Sounds good! I want to paint hubby's daily driver, white, before I tackle his race car. Didn't want to put a whole lot into paint in case I screw it up so this sounds like something worth checking into....think of the daily driver as one giant test panel....te hee hee
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