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Old 01-04-2005, 03:25 PM
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Red Oxide Primer

Hi, I was wondering if anyone knows if red oxide primer will do anything bad to wood?TIA
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Old 01-04-2005, 04:04 PM
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No. The red is iron oxide (rust) which is not a problem for wood. The only possible problem would come in with the solvents and carriers in the paint and even then I can't think of anything that wood wouldn't like.
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Old 01-04-2005, 04:32 PM
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i agree with willys. solvent base paints dont have any effect on wood. been finishing cabinetry for years with it and works great.
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Old 01-04-2005, 04:38 PM
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Works great on my barn walls..
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Old 01-04-2005, 09:41 PM
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Awesome, because I am building a snare drum and I am thinking of doing that color on it. Thank You Alll.
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Old 01-05-2005, 04:30 PM
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interesting.....i dont think we have too any people on the forum building musical insturments.
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Old 01-05-2005, 10:20 PM
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Does that stuff work on cars? Everyone is doing the oldschool flat black look, I'm wondering what the red oxide would look like?
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Old 01-05-2005, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 55ford
Awesome, because I am building a snare drum and I am thinking of doing that color on it. Thank You Alll.
Post it here when you get it done. A buddy of mine has made a number of kits check out his site (click here) . I know he has painted a few, in fact, as I remember I painted a set for him come to think of it. It was a blinding indigo blue color.

Why just a snare? Rockabilly are you?
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Old 01-05-2005, 10:53 PM
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Nope, not that i mind rockabilly music, just starting with a snare for now, hopefully a tom soon, and I will be sure to post a pic of it here when done.

Mollard, here is a link to a car done in red iron oxide primer, it is from american hot rod fansite.

http://dsc.discovery.com/fansites/am...rip2_hzoom.jpg



edit: checked out that site, it is awesome, favorited it.
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Old 01-06-2005, 05:14 AM
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can't believe I'm answering this post......

55 Ford, red oxide primer on wood alone will scratch very easy, you need to topcoat it or :
(better!) use red oxide (red mahogany) colored wood stain,
you can mix stain colors (black walnut for darker example) to get the color and shade you want
save all your scrap from building the snare so you can test for results with the stain or primer scratch problem
buy the small can(s), takes about 1/2 oz of stain or primer for a drum
want "flat" finish, top coat with clear and sand with 1,000 grit
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Old 01-06-2005, 05:55 AM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by red65mustang
[B]can't believe I'm answering this post......

&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&
This is getting to be big business, as far as furniture makers using automotive finishes.
For years some have used lacquer and some air dried stains and air dried polyurethane varnish.
Now your seeing house of color and base clear.

I sell two custom builders and here is their procedure.
Coat of epoxy (stop the soaking of primer), 2 coats (sometimes 6-8) of 2k primer (this person blocks her wood straight) and than the color with 3 coats of HS clear. 600 wet the next day and 3 more coats. It is than wet sanded and buffed better than any body shop would do.
$50,000 just for kitchen cabinets (Black) no counter top, no installation, just the cabinets!
My other builder is doing a bar $30,000. He stained the oak and let it set over night and now has 12 coats of polyurethane clear over a four day period wet sanding between applications. Talked to him last week and they have been buffing for two days.
As far as coatings on wood pretend its a car and use same procedure.
Yes automotive clear can be sprayed over the wood stains if they set over night first.
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Old 01-06-2005, 07:48 AM
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My wife and I are partners in a project to restore a 100 year-old Victorian cottage to a meetings/wedding/restaurant venue. We worked on it full spare time for over a year (what a burden!) but it is a jewel of a show place now. As you might expect the mill-work in the interior is magnificent. It is all paint grade clear vertical grain douglas fir, not a stainable variety so it had to be painted. Rather than using the crappy water based enamels that don't have any gloss and are impossible to lay on smoothly or the oil based ones that never dry and yellow in a year or so, I sprayed automotive single stage catalyzed urethane white. Incredible shine, color retention and will out-live the house.
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Old 01-06-2005, 08:00 AM
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here is a pic of the interior on one of the boats i used to build. all the woodwork is finished in urethane clear and then wetsanded and buffed. it was actually 3 step process. first coat was a very low solids clear with a dye in it for the color then a transparent polyester primer filler was applied to fill the grain then sanded smooth then a urethane clearcoat and of course the wetsand bufff. looks nice and durable but shows every fingerprint so i think its a little impractical, especially for a boat.
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Old 01-06-2005, 08:14 AM
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Being wood is not my thing I have a front door that has been sitting in my garage for about five years, maybe this is the way to go?

This door came from my grandfathers house built in 1928. I have pictures of my dad walking thru it on his way to overseas in WWII. I climbed the fence and swiped it off the house before the bulldozer knocked it down.

Anyway, I had some repair work done on it and the guy stained it (without me asking) he then promptly quit and I don't know what he put on. Well, I know it wasn't the right stuff for the project because after I coated it with Varathane the Varathane just peeled off like I applied it to wax or something.

I assume I am going to need to take Jasco or something to it and start all over. Anyone have any ideas? After reading some responses here I am thinking strip it, stain it and apply some urethane or polyurethane clear of the automotive variety.
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Old 01-06-2005, 11:52 AM
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this will be fun

Barry, good point, if you don't seal the wood with epoxy first, do allow atleast a day between coats cause the wood soaks up the solvents like a sponge and drys like a sponge....slow

willys36, bet it looks great, and when you do the exterior trim use a coat of auto urathane clear for UV protection. anytime you use auto paint on wood, leave one side "unsealed", wood has to breath or it will rot

mrclean, try some nu-finish auto polish, less prints and lasts

(side note: want a gorgeous surface on any varnished-stained wood table/chest/etc. use some Mother's on it. got a dull finish, use Maguir's cleaner wax)

martinsr, he stained it then rubbed it with linseed oil, that's why the urathane didn't stick. Do you know what wood the door is made from? There are several methods to re-finish it depending on the wood

I knew I never should have answered this thread.....credentials: learned from my grandad who was a master furniture builder, learned enough to work my way thru college re-finishing yachts!
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