When spraying basecoat does one reducer make it easier to get a better finnish than another.Like would a slow reducer be easier to spray than a fast reducer?
This is a tough one to answer with out writing a book, slower is better if you have the time for proper flash.
If your doing work in a body shop best to use grade for air temp or metal temp as time is an issue.
For special jobs the slower you can put up with the better the effect the base will have with clear coat(clarity) but this can be negated real fast if proper flash times are not followed.
For restorations I always use 895 no matter the temp or size of part be it a master cylinder or a body.
Contrary to popular belief slower does not improve adhesion as only 45-50 percent of adhesion is mechanical the rest is + or - charge.
This is short and sweet as far as answer as this is a very deep question but a good one. To save space if there is a certain item you want me to expound on let me know.
Your answer is yes and no!
But a foot note - proper temp reducer is one of the most important things you can do for any job. Fast is not good unless the temp calls for fast.
Would using a medium temp reducer with a temp around 65 be a wise choice?Should i wait for the temp to go up or speed up the reducer?Im a novice painter who has been learning from my mistakes .
Tomorrow ill seal the car and try to spray on Friday.Is there gonna be a problem leaving the sealer on for 24 hours before i spray the base coat?
Check the tech sheet for the sealer you are using, it should tell you how long of a time frame you have to spray the color coats. If you exceed the time, you will have to sand the sealer. I usually use a medium reducer or fast in my basecoat, depending on what the temperature. I believe the slower the activator or reducer you can use in the clear, the better it will lay out.
The medium at that temp would be great, just a little slower flash.
Do not seal until you are ready to paint as most sealers have a window such as 5 minutes to 30 minutes for painting.
Like the above post said get tech sheet for window of the sealer you are using.
Going out of window can mean, lifting, crazing, blistering or just plain loss of adhesion.
my products are the sherwin williams "western" line.The sealer is a enamel.On the label it just says "grey sealer".Its mixed with reducer.The basecoat is the same line of products.Should i use a different sealer?
Don't know! That why we said get tech sheet on that sealer as this is most important.
I hadn't seen an enamel sealer is so long I could not begin to guess.
Call the paint store and find out window for applying paint over sealer.
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