Remote cup gun OK for frame painting? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2005, 10:37 AM
Barrybomb's Avatar
Registered Loser
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Islip,NY
Posts: 51
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Remote cup gun OK for frame painting?

Somehow,I seem to be moving backwards,but I am going to be painting my open car trailer before I get to the car.I'm going to have it blasted next week.Deal is, he sandblasts(with commercial 500 CFM rig),I paint.I haven't painted in about 5 years,and even then was an amateur,but atleast I have the intentions of doing the best job possible. I'm planning on going with 2 coats of SPI epoxy,then topcoat with 2 coats of an acrylic urethane like Deltron, (DCC, not a base/clear system).I want to go with a silver metallic on this thing.I'm open to suggestions on the paint,I'm looking for durability and chip resistance more than anything.Also,should I treat the surfaces that will see abuse differently,for better durability(coat with clear?)

Is there anything I should do prep wise after the sandblasting?He's going to thoroughly blow the thing off after and with 500 CFM he should have it very clean.Can I get to it right away with the epoxy? I'll be painting outside as soon as he is done.

I want to use a remote cup gun.I figure that is the best way to get the paint everywhere.The gun I have is atleast 10 years old, I don't think it is HVLP.I know that everything is gravity feed now,will the remote cup gun be OK?

I know that this is only a trailer,but with all the prep work involved in any project, I don't see the sense of short cutting on the material or the equipment.After this project I'll move onto the real thing,But for now it's good to get my hand back into it with this.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2005, 01:20 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,578
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 61 Times in 39 Posts
Remote gun = Pressure pot??

If it is that will be no problem.
Clear will be your best protection.
Silver base I would say Diamont (Basf) would be most forgiving for a beginner with out getting into the premium brands.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2005, 04:43 PM
Barrybomb's Avatar
Registered Loser
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Islip,NY
Posts: 51
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thank you Barry,yes a 2 quart pressure pot.The challenge is that After it is blasted I will have about 5 hours tops to get this thing sprayed before I am kicked out and required to pick it up the next morning. I'll be spraying outside.Does this give me enough time for Base/clear?This is one reason I was figuring on single stage urethane.Also,what would be the differences between the BASF verses the "premium" paint.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2005, 05:23 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,578
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 61 Times in 39 Posts
With the pressure pot you can move and outside will be good for epoxy but not for base/clear.
Shoot one or two coats of epoxy and wait 60 minutes than single stage.
and outside I would try and find a polyurethane so check with Napa or a Sherwin Williams jobber.
You will have enough time and don't do no rain dances, for sure.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2005, 05:44 PM
Barrybomb's Avatar
Registered Loser
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Islip,NY
Posts: 51
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Barry,what kind of characteristics are the polyurethane paints going to have that are going to benefit me on this job?Will they be OK in metallic?How many coats should I figure on for durability?
P.S.- I don't plan on dancing in my Tyvek suit,Not cool!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2005, 05:50 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,578
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 61 Times in 39 Posts
Polyurethane is going to be the most durable BUT metallic spraying of a poly is no child's play unless its a small amount of metallic or real fine.
Two coats of a poly or urethane should do it.
Any U-Tech 200 around there? Sold by Sikkens jobbers.
Worth a check.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2005, 06:04 PM
Barrybomb's Avatar
Registered Loser
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Islip,NY
Posts: 51
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I know of a local Sikkens jobber,I'll check.What is it about this stuff that will turn me on?
What should my concerns be about shooting the metallic?
How should I set up my gun?Will the same setup work for the epoxy and the topcoat?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2005, 07:27 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,578
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 61 Times in 39 Posts
The 200 is a very tough acrylic urethane and has very good metallic control.
this paint use to be a polyurethane but was referred to as acrylic as not to scare the painters. When Sikkens bought company in 99 changes were make but its still pretty good. It used to be skydrol approved most likely not know.
1/2 the price of Concept, easier to spray and stronger.
mixes 3:1:1 and since outside use a slow reducer.

setup will get you through it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2005, 08:49 PM
Barrybomb's Avatar
Registered Loser
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Islip,NY
Posts: 51
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks Barry.What size tip should I shoot with? What cleaning procedure do you recommend between products?
I am I able to go staight to epoxy after the sandblasting/blowoff operation?Is there any additional prep?
2 coats and 2 coats and I should be fairly bulletproof?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
"Basic of Basics" How do I paint my car myself? Centerline Body - Exterior 5 11-07-2011 07:14 AM
Martin Senour Tech Sheets? unstable Body - Exterior 42 03-12-2011 09:09 PM
More on Orange Peel KarKen Body - Exterior 36 03-22-2009 02:18 PM
Orange peel in the clear Montypierce Body - Exterior 13 03-06-2005 08:49 PM
harbor freight hvlp gun jn0w Introduce Yourself 2 06-15-2004 03:08 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:02 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.