I have a 46 Ford 4dr Streetrod and I am installing power window so I can reach in and open the door.
I installed door poppers on my factory latches and they did not have the power to open them all the time. So I have removed them.
I have installed motors (reverse polarity) on my factory regulators and now I want to wire them. I can wire them for switch but I can not wire all four to the drivers door since I only have two wires run into that door. I will install a master switch in the console.
Basics of what I have and what I am looking for are:
I have a Painless harness installed in the car and a 6 button remote system that I am only using the trunk popper at this time.
I have two wires routed into the front doors at this time and will wire the rear doors and install the motors next winter.
Looking for a proper relay and wiring to run all four door window and the front ones need to run off of the remote also.
Dave,
When you say you installed door poppers on your old latches am I correct that up put actuators or solenoids in? We have springs to help them pull if they aren't strong enough. If the latch is releasing but the door won't swing open we also have a spring loaded pusher to help that as well.
Regarding wiring up the remote, who's remote is it? They should have given you instructions for running power windows. If you don't have specific instructions we may still be able to help you. It would be a help to know who's remote it is and if the P/W switches are 3 wire or 5 wire.
The system I installed is a AutoLoc - Remote Shaved Door Popper Kit.
Doors have to much pressure on the factory latch to pull them. The car has a 3" chop and that may be part of the issue. Would rather have the windows then the door poppers now.
I wanted the window crank look and no pwr window switches etc..... I purchased a set of window crank switches..... push the crank dwn..... window goes down etc......
I also wanted the ability to roll up and dwn the passenger window from the drivers side, again without the pwr window switches.... so I added a set of relays and a stainless steel mini momentary switch (about the diameter of a pencil eraser). When the mini switch is pressed, the relays disconnect the driver's window and moves the control of the passenger window to the drivers switch. Works pretty slick.
Not sure if the first schematic is right for me or not,
Thought about this some more and all I need is the ability to run the windows down with a remote.
I believe I need something like this if possible.....
That's what the 1st diagram will do, if you don't need an up, you only need one relay. (if your system came with/ uses two relays that's a different story)
Most power window switches........ the up and dwn buttons are resting at ground, for example.....when you press dwn button, it goes hot (+12v) and the up button remains at ground...... window goes down.
When you interrupt the original dwn power wire using a relay....... When the relay is at rest the normally closed and common terminals allow the door mounted down button to function as normal
When the remote is used, it closes the relay's normally open and common terminals and flows power from an always hot source and the window will go down as long as the remote energizes the relay.
If your remote utilizes a pulsed output, you would need to pulse it allot to get the window down, or utilize a latching relay with an overload circuit to disconnect the relay when the motor starts to bind when it opens fully etc.....
Not sure if I need to reread everything of if I am just missing something.
The car now has power windows installed in it and working. I would like to install one of my (+) powers from my remote to runt the window down when needed. The wires are all (-) while at rest so I can not just send power down the wire to the window motor unless I stop the power from going back to the switch (I don't want to burn up the switch).
Can someone tell me how to wire the (+) down wire on the motor.
It's a clear as mud to me and I am the one asking the question.
If you use the diagram from post #4, it will work. The motor and switch are labeled lock....... but it will work for a window...... the relay doesn't know it's not a lock .....lol
Easy day you basically change one wire from the orig diagram I drew.
Here is the new diagram with the neg trigger.
On many of these remotes, the neg out put from the remote brain is pulsed...... the remote only makes contact for a very short amount of time. If yours is like this ....I see you have two options.....
1 - (which I'd try 1st) is keep pressing the dwn button repeatedly until the window rolls dwn.
It doesn't like your image but I see what to do. Eliminate the ground and jumper the constant hot to that contact.
Thanks EOD I will give it a try latter tonight.
I assume you used the diagram from your post, If all you want is the down feature, I wouldn't use two relays..... two aren't needed.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Hot Rod Forum
2.2M posts
175.7K members
Since 2001
A forum community dedicated to hot rod owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about restoration, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!