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Old 03-20-2004, 04:51 PM
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Remote solenoid: problem starting the engine

Hi guys,

I need your electrical expertise. My 67 Camaro always had 'hot start' problems, when after driving the car and turning it off, I couldn't restart it in a few minutes. The car has headers, the starter is shielded.

I found this article:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te.../148_0312_hot/

and bought the kit to finally get rid of that annoyance. Installed the kit:
- Terminated B and S connectors on the starter solenoid with the provided metal clip;
- Ran thick wire from the B to the remote solenoid positive terminal
- Purple wire which originally ran to the starter's S terminal was re-routed to the remote starter's S terminal;
- Ran thick battery wire from the other positive side of the remote starter solenoid's terminal to the positive batter side.

Since the car has an GM HEI, there was no other wire hooked to the original starter solenoid (R wire).

Now, I can crank the car as long as I want, but I don't get the spark. The gas filter and carb are full of fuel.

I did some searching here and a few people installed these remote solenoids. What do you think the problem is? There is nothing hooked up to the remote solenoid's "I" terminal. The instructions sheet says that if the car is non-HEI I need to wire "R" wire to the "I" terminal. The car is HEI. So there is nothing there.

I checked the fuse box, the "Coil" fuse is not blown. The car has Painless Wiring kit installed.

I'd appreciate your help.

Thanks!
Denis
'67 Camaro RS

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Old 03-20-2004, 05:07 PM
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I installed one of those on my truck years ago and it worked flawlessly. Plus its nice to be able to hook up a remote starter button for compression tests and such.

As far is the HEI source wire, you can hook it anywhere you have full voltage with the key on. Mine came with HEI so its wired under the dash. You can take the dist wire back under the dash and put a spade connector on it and plug it in to any spare slot or double up on a used one, that is hot only with the key on.

Mark
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Old 03-20-2004, 05:12 PM
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Mark,

Do you think my setup is missing that HEI source wire? Why did it work before without this extra step?

Thanks for posting the reply so fast,
Denis
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Old 03-20-2004, 05:26 PM
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If it worked before, it should work now. Do you have power to the distributer with just the ignition switch at the on position, not cranking? Are you sure that you didn't tug on the distributer power wire and maybe broke it while working on the other wires?

Just a thought.
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Old 03-20-2004, 07:55 PM
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Poncho, I plugged my voltmeter into the distributor wire (says "Bat") and checked the voltage with ign. key "On" 12.5V. Then while cranking the starter. It was between 12.4 and 13.6V. I thought maybe the remote starter solenoid is cutting off the power to the distributor coil.

Any other suggestions? I'd hate going back to hot start problems :-)

Thanks!
Denis
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Old 03-20-2004, 08:00 PM
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If you have power to the distributer and no spark, you have a problem within the distributer. It has nothing to do with your new starting system.
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Old 03-20-2004, 08:15 PM
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Is there any way to take the top part off of the distributor (coil itself) and check it? Simple tests to check continuity?
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Old 03-20-2004, 11:17 PM
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Do you have a tach hooked up next to the "batt" terminal on the cap? where it says "tach"?
If so, unplug it and try starting it. May be shorted out somehow.

There is a real fast test for the coil and module.
Leave the dist wires all hooked up. Turn the 4 cap hold down screws and gently remove the cap and wires as far as you can. Look at the module inside the dist. One end has 2 spades that go to a plug that goes to the outside and plugs into the side of the cap.
The other side has 2 spades that go to the pickup. The pickup is the triggering device for the dist. One of those 2 spades is narrower than the other. I believe it has a green wire going to it. Leave all the wires plugged in. Take a test light and clip one end to the + terminal on the battery. Then tap the point of the test light on the small green wire where it plugs to the module. If the coil and module are good, each "tap" on the wire will trigger the coil and you will hear it click inside the cap. Its trying to fire inside the cap and is a noticable noise. If you hear the clicking in the cap each time you tap the green wire, you most likely have a good coil and module, but a bad pickup.

Changing the pickup requires removing the dist from the engine, removing the dist gear and pulling the shaft out the top of the dist to access the snap ring that holds the pickup in the dist. Its not really too hard if you mark where the dist is pointing and make sure you re-check the timing when you are done.

If you want to ohm ck the coil, here is how to access it.

The top of the dist cap has 2, 1/4" screws holding it on. You can un-plug the "batt" and "tach" wires, then the plug that goes down to the dist and remove the 4 coil hold down screws and then remove the coil for ohm testing. You'll need to get the specs from a manual.

My experience with HEI distributors has been that that coils rarely fail, but the pickup in the dist under the weights gives me the most problems. But "most problems" for me is maybe 2 pickups and one coil in over 333,000 miles on the same dist.

Ck the wires over good inside the dist to see if one of the wires on the pickup is shorting out or broken.

Mark
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Old 03-21-2004, 09:48 AM
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Thanks, Mark, for the detailed description! I will check it today.

Denis
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Old 03-21-2004, 12:04 PM
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Mark, you just saved me a lot of time taking that distributor out! :-) Without the tach hooked up, the engine started right away. I found the tach wires meshed together with the steering column bolt. Once isolated and rerouted, the tach worked along with the engine starter, hurah!

Lots of thanks to you and Poncho!

Denis
'67 Camaro RS
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