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Old 08-10-2010, 06:24 PM
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Removal of valve covers

I might have to remove my intake manifold and I am wondering if it is necessary to remove my valve covers to get the intake manifold unit off?
1). make of vehicle and year is a 1987 Chevy suburban with a 5.7 engine
2). fuel injection for carb
The statement of might be removing is not set in stone yet. Plan to test manifold for leaks with a propane torch. The other day I torque the intake and exhaust manifold along with the removal of my TB and got a fair amount of performance. Everyone of my exhaust manifold bolts were so loose I was able to take the doggone bolts off by hand.

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Old 08-10-2010, 06:43 PM
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I think they dont need to be removed to R+R the intake manifold. I recently replaced one in a newer van 2001 I think and I had to pull one side to get it off so I ended up pulling both and installing new gasket as it was a van and a pain in the @&& . The new gaskets will have restrictors (little tin plates) in the coolant passage area of the new gaskets. Be sure to put the restrictors to the rear or the engine will overheat.
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Old 08-10-2010, 09:11 PM
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yes, you do have to remove at least one. its really not hard at all, dont stress. btw just spray starting fluid around the manifold while its running at see if it revs up. your scaring me with this torch stuff! dont mix fire and gasoline!!!

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Old 08-10-2010, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdog7373
yes, you do have to remove at least one. its really not hard at all, dont stress. btw just spray starting fluid around the manifold while its running at see if it revs up. your scaring me with this torch stuff! dont mix fire and gasoline!!!
Bigdog, He's talking about using the Propane in the tank to check for leaks, not a lit torch, which is much safer for the engine than Starting Fluid. At least I hope He is.
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Old 08-10-2010, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdog7373
yes, you do have to remove at least one. its really not hard at all, dont stress. btw just spray starting fluid around the manifold while its running at see if it revs up. your scaring me with this torch stuff! dont mix fire and gasoline!!!
Chill out, Big Dog.......down boy! An UNLIT propane torch, with the valve open, will do the same as the starter fluid. It'll speed up the idle if theres a vacuum leak.
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Old 08-10-2010, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSedan64
Bigdog, He's talking about using the Propane in the tank to check for leaks, not a lit torch, which is much safer for the engine than Starting Fluid. At least I hope He is.
OK, ya beat me to it!!!
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Old 08-10-2010, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSedan64
Bigdog, He's talking about using the Propane in the tank to check for leaks, not a lit torch, which is much safer for the engine than Starting Fluid. At least I hope He is.
I also seem to remember propane as being heavier than air which will also help to not get false readings . I had to chuckle at the post . Whoah BigDog , down boy ! LOL
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Old 08-10-2010, 11:26 PM
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For more clarification on propane

http://crankshaftcoalition.com will give you several technique on how to find a vacuum leak. Nope, the propane torch certainly will not be lit and the web site I have supplied was passed down to me from another "Bro" from hotrodders,com Considering I now know it necessary to remove the valve covers turn me on to some technique advice on how to adjust valves. I now and then have a puff of white smoke coming from the exhaust when the vehicle is fired up. Guessing, this is the cause of valve guides. Besides a good cleaning and a quickie paint job, what else can I do while the covers are off? Let me emphasize the puffs of smoke are random. What gasket are involved in relation to the distributer if it is necessary to pull the intake manifold. My vehicle is a 1987 5.7 Chevy Suburban, with TB.carb.
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Old 08-11-2010, 12:12 AM
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Other things you can do

You can get an over the head valve spring compressor to replace the valve seals while you have the valve covers and intake off . BTW it is a good thing you are pulling the intake because the white smoke could be an intake gasket and hopefully not (though I think probably) a head gasket . Valve seals would be blue smoke. Coolant or water would be white smoke .You will have to have a spark plug adapter and air compressor to hold the valves up as you do one cylinder at a time . Remove all spark plugs and don't reinstall until you have readjusted all valves .You may need to put a socket over the valve spring retainers and give a sharp rap with a hammer to unstick the retainer keepers. Hope this isn't over YOUR head . LOL I like to adjust the valves before I reinstall the intake for reasons you will see . After the valve seals are all replaced watch the valve lifters as you rotate the engine by hand , and after the lifter for #1 intake valve goes down ,watch the timing marks and when it comes up to tdc you are ready to reinstall the rocker arms and pushrods (which you make sure go in the same locations as you took them out of along with keeping the pivots matched to the rockers also). 16 nails in a board work well . Now , mark the harmonic balancer every 90 degrees . Firing order is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 . Adjust the valves on #1 cylinder by turning the nut until you just take the slack out of the pushrod ( I like to blow the oil out of the top of the lifters for visual confirmation, which is why I leave the intake off ) when you feel just a little resistance to spinning the pushrod and confirm by looking to see that the plunger on the pushrod is just moving away from the retainer , turn the nut exactly 1-1/2 turns additional . Some say 1 turn , but I have found that the additional 1/2 turn gets rid of the start up valve clatter that the 5.7 is prone to have. Next turn the engine 90 degrees to the next mark that you put on the balancer and repeat the procedure for #8 cylinder and then turn the crank another 90 degrees to the next mark for #4 cyl and so on . The next time the factory TDC comes up you will be setting #6 cyl. All valves will be adjusted correctly in two revolutions of the crankshaft . Others may do it differently , but I have done valve adjustments on literally dozens of engines and have NEVER had to go back and re-adjust . Also , If you buy an intake gasket set it will have the intake gasket , the rocker cover gaskets and the distributor gasket . I would opt for the bonnet style valve seals even if your engine didn't come with them . I hope I am not forgetting anything . It is 2:00 am and I am overdue getting to bed . I hope this helps .
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Old 08-11-2010, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr
You can get an over the head valve spring compressor to replace the valve seals while you have the valve covers and intake off . BTW it is a good thing you are pulling the intake because the white smoke could be an intake gasket and hopefully not (though I think probably) a head gasket . Valve seals would be blue smoke. Coolant or water would be white smoke .You will have to have a spark plug adapter and air compressor to hold the valves up as you do one cylinder at a time . Remove all spark plugs and don't reinstall until you have readjusted all valves .You may need to put a socket over the valve spring retainers and give a sharp rap with a hammer to unstick the retainer keepers. Hope this isn't over YOUR head . LOL I like to adjust the valves before I reinstall the intake for reasons you will see . After the valve seals are all replaced watch the valve lifters as you rotate the engine by hand , and after the lifter for #1 intake valve goes down ,watch the timing marks and when it comes up to tdc you are ready to reinstall the rocker arms and pushrods (which you make sure go in the same locations as you took them out of along with keeping the pivots matched to the rockers also). 16 nails in a board work well . Now , mark the harmonic balancer every 90 degrees . Firing order is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 . Adjust the valves on #1 cylinder by turning the nut until you just take the slack out of the pushrod ( I like to blow the oil out of the top of the lifters for visual confirmation, which is why I leave the intake off ) when you feel just a little resistance to spinning the pushrod and confirm by looking to see that the plunger on the pushrod is just moving away from the retainer , turn the nut exactly 1-1/2 turns additional . Some say 1 turn , but I have found that the additional 1/2 turn gets rid of the start up valve clatter that the 5.7 is prone to have. Next turn the engine 90 degrees to the next mark that you put on the balancer and repeat the procedure for #8 cylinder and then turn the crank another 90 degrees to the next mark for #4 cyl and so on . The next time the factory TDC comes up you will be setting #6 cyl. All valves will be adjusted correctly in two revolutions of the crankshaft . Others may do it differently , but I have done valve adjustments on literally dozens of engines and have NEVER had to go back and re-adjust . Also , If you buy an intake gasket set it will have the intake gasket , the rocker cover gaskets and the distributor gasket . I would opt for the bonnet style valve seals even if your engine didn't come with them . I hope I am not forgetting anything . It is 2:00 am and I am overdue getting to bed . I hope this helps .
There are several posts on here regarding reinstalling the distributor which is why I didn't get into that .
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Old 08-11-2010, 01:12 AM
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Smoke coloration

Let me double check on the color of that smoke. When vehicle was orginally purchased the owner commented on how Chevy's are known to have these random puffs of smoke, that was four years ago. Being a head gasket appears to me to be unlikely. The valve adjustment seems to be pretty time consuming, I may have to put that off for another day. Besides smoke mentioned, I am not getting any clacking noise from the lifters.

Tommy
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Old 08-11-2010, 01:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy evans
Let me double check on the color of that smoke. When vehicle was orginally purchased the owner commented on how Chevy's are known to have these random puffs of smoke, that was four years ago. Being a head gasket appears to me to be unlikely. The valve adjustment seems to be pretty time consuming, I may have to put that off for another day. Besides smoke mentioned, I am not getting any clacking noise from the lifters.

Tommy
The whole procedure sounds a lot worse than it is . You could do it all in an evening , including the valve seals .
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Old 08-11-2010, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evolvo
Chill out, Big Dog.......down boy! An UNLIT propane torch, with the valve open, will do the same as the starter fluid. It'll speed up the idle if theres a vacuum leak.
I've never head of that before. I was just imagining him walking up the the engine with this torch and, boom! lol. Thanks for clearing that up guys.
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