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-   -   Removing Back Body Panel on Model A/T (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/removing-back-body-panel-model-t-98032.html)

jasonbeam 09-13-2006 10:51 AM

Removing Back Body Panel on Model A/T
 
I've managed to scrounge up a new back body panel for my T, but I am hoping to get some advice on the proper removal of the exisiting damaged panel. Any suggestions? I don't want to create more damage than what I am trying to repair.

Irelands child 09-13-2006 11:12 AM

The '31 that I had a few years ago had a bolt in back center panel - but it was an odd-ball slant windshield. My recollection was that the nuts were square with machine screws, probably 12-24's

jasonbeam 09-13-2006 12:43 PM

The part I am replacing is below the back window. I can see quite a few bolts to remove, but It looks like I have to really beat on it to get it loose. I'm wondering if I should take a cold chisel and work my way around the seams to loosen it - or if there is some other trick I should use.

Irelands child 09-13-2006 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasonbeam
The part I am replacing is below the back window. I can see quite a few bolts to remove, but It looks like I have to really beat on it to get it loose. I'm wondering if I should take a cold chisel and work my way around the seams to loosen it - or if there is some other trick I should use.

Remember that I am talking Model A - but depending on the year, the construction methods between a T and an A were about the same.

There should be a couple of body supports across that area as well. They should be, as a minimum, loosened on one side tho my preferance would be to remove them so you can get to all of the bolts and while out, cleaned and painted.

To answer your specific question, unless you absolutely have to, don't use a cold chisel. It will tear and distort metal that has to be fixed on the main part of the body before you can do any painting. If you are absolutely sure you have the right replacement piece, find a buddy that has a plasma cutter and cut it out, leaving a couple of inches between the cut and the main body flange. An acetylene torch will transfer too much heat and distort the adjoining body panels. Then you can easily reach in and remove the bolting. Throw them away and order new nuts and bolts from someone like Snyders or if it's going to be a street rod, drill 'em a size over and use a good grade of 1/4-20 with lockwashers

Dave

adtkart 09-13-2006 02:19 PM

I rep[laced the rear panel on my '26 Touring several years ago. The screws came out fairly easy. Separating the panels was another story. They were rusted together. I basically had to use a stiff scraper to drive between the panel and the bead piece that goes in there. It is a real pain to get them apart.

Aaron

Irelands child 09-13-2006 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adtkart
I rep[laced the rear panel on my '26 Touring several years ago. The screws came out fairly easy. Separating the panels was another story. They were rusted together. I basically had to use a stiff scraper to drive between the panel and the bead piece that goes in there. It is a real pain to get them apart.

Aaron

Sounds like the bead is separate on a T. My 31 slant W/S was bead rolled into the side quarters and surprisingly, came apart very easily - but that particular 31 was really put together like a '32 and had no body wood except for the top. Interesting car but was sold for financial solvency and to purchase my '31 roadster.
Dave

jasonbeam 09-13-2006 03:36 PM

Thanks for the input you guys, I appreciate it. I currently don't have access to a plasma cutter, but I may try something thinner than a cold chisel (such as an old steel putty knife) and try to work it a little. If that's not getting me results, I'll slide that project to the side until I find someone with a cutter. I've got plenty of other stuff to work on!

adtkart 09-13-2006 05:13 PM

The "bead" piece that I referred to id called a "T Strip" in Snyder's catalogue. It goes between the rear body panel and quarter panels. It hides the seam. Mine needed alot of work to be able to reuse them, because of the rust damage to them, from being rusted to the other panels. FYI.... They were $39 each back in the 2004 book.

Aaron


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