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Old 11-28-2007, 07:22 AM
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Removing Dents with Dry Ice

I came across this Video on another site-I'm not saying that I believe it, but I thought I'd share it-what do you think?

http://www.freevidbox.com/user/?vid=60&sort=date&page=1

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Old 11-28-2007, 07:48 AM
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That is too cool! I've heard of this method but this is the first time I've seen it in action. Thanks for sharing, dan
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Old 11-28-2007, 08:36 AM
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It is largely fantasy. I didn't look at this particular video but on another forum we came to the conclusion that the dent was literally being pushed out from behind.

There are SUPER rare cases where you can "pull" a dent up with a torch, heat will work like that. But a dent without some sort of brow or crown is not likely. This crown WILL hold the dent in to some degree. So like simply pushing a big dent out with your foot, the creases, crowns and brows will still be there the dent will just be not as deep as before, so what does that get you?

Brian
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Old 11-28-2007, 11:51 AM
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Brian,

Did some of the folks at that other forum actually TRY the technique and report back that it didn't work? Seems like a couple very simple and inexpensive "tests" could expose this as a myth...if it IS a myth.
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Old 11-28-2007, 12:45 PM
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I tried it on a Ford Fiesta with light hail damage and no luck. You know how thin that sheet metal is. I don't think the ice has enough surface area to conform to the sheet metal and pop the dent out on its own. Maybe it needs a little heat and then apply the dry ice. The ice still won't be conformed to the depression so it probably won't work anyway. Maybe the new Loctite Freeze spray would do the trick. It gets to 45 Degrees below zero Fahrenheit. It is called Freeze & Release. CRC has a similar product out as well. Both are made for releasing rusted fasteners.
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Old 11-28-2007, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclopsblown34
I don't think the ice has enough surface area to conform to the sheet metal and pop the dent out on its own.
Or maybe it IS just a myth and the video is bogus. Anybody else tried this.

Also, very interesting mention of the Loctite "freezing" spray. Anybody used that to bust rust?
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Old 11-28-2007, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cboy
.........

Also, very interesting mention of the Loctite "freezing" spray. Anybody used that to bust rust?
I am also interseted in this product... As for the dry ice has anyone ever seen it at the local supermarket?Thae last dry ice I saw came with a cheese cake from my aunt,and was stuck to my finger
Shane
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Old 11-28-2007, 07:01 PM
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Myth!
A small torch will work wonders on hail damage.
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Old 11-28-2007, 07:18 PM
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Tried it. Didn't work.

Larry
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Old 11-29-2007, 07:07 AM
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Maybe somebody should try using the wart freezer you can buy at the store, it is liquid nitrogen, just a thought.
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Old 11-29-2007, 07:24 AM
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I call it make believe.

The guy says it's the same technique as what the "paintless dent repair" guys use...

Not so. I have had the guys from "Dent pro" out to my shop 3 times in the last 10 years ,to work out some pretty good dings and even a 2' long crease from a parking lot encounter with a truck bumper,.....and they use spoons and picks and little teflon tipped hammers.

I'll tell you, those guys earn thier money, and it isn't by using dry ice.


The dry ice guy never says what happens when the magically straightened metal goes back to being ambient temperature either. I'lll bet it goes right back the way it was.(if it moved at all)

Just like you can raise a bump in sheetmetal with a torch, if you don't overheat it, it'll come back down when it cools.

The amount metal will move is dependant on the difference in temp, with dry ice, you are talking about less than 120 degrees difference, with a torch, you are talking hundreds of degrees.



Where is Centerline's BS flag?

Later, mikey
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Old 11-29-2007, 08:02 AM
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This just came up on another board... posted this: I saw some video of master metalshaper Scott Knight (inventor of the first shrinking disc as far as I know) shrinking a ding out of a flat panel by pressing the shrinking disc down on the high spot of the ding (backside) and quenching a few times to get the panel back to flat. This was on a bench, not a car, so it had support. The ding was heated up by the friction, and the pressure applied on the disc was pushing the ding out as the heat softened the metal. The metal shrunk when quenched resulting in a flat panel. A neat trick.

Fixing dings with just temperature changes and no pressure from a tool of some sort would be a rare accomplishment in my opinion.

John
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Old 11-29-2007, 08:13 AM
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Mikey, I didn't think mentioning that about the real PDR guys. I have a guy coming out to the shop every few months, and as my video (the one that I mention in another thread that I have) shows, they EARN THEIR MONEY. It is a learned art that they are very skilled at, they are NOT rubbing dry ice on it, that is for sure!

Ok, I give in, I called the local supermarket last night, they have dry ice for a buck a pound. I will pick some up and give it a try. I have a couple of dents on my drivers that this would be perfect for.

If any of you want to really see, simply do the same.

Brian
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Old 11-29-2007, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onebadmerc
Maybe somebody should try using the wart freezer you can buy at the store, it is liquid nitrogen, just a thought.

Not sure what's in wart freezer but it can't be liquid Nitrogen because that is a cryogenic fluid and has to be stored in cryo tanks and even then it can't be stored for very long. Liquid Nitrogen is available at most welding gas suppliers however and it is waaaay colder (-320 F!) than dry ice! It would seem that if dry ice works then liquid Nitrogen would be much better and the cold liquid or even the super cooled vapor would chill the metal more evenly than dry ice.
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Old 11-29-2007, 09:13 AM
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Would the steel become brittle at that low of a temp? (liquid nitrogen, -320F)

I know it is some pretty soft sheetmetal that they are building cars out of these days, but still... -320F?

The Titanic got brittle at what, +28?

Another thing that John K pointed out,(my interpretation, anyway), is that once shrunk, the metal would have to be "set" somehow to keep the dent from coming back.

Later, mikey
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