This little trick REALLY works, and if you get the bearing stuck, use a few smaller bearings to bump the stuck one loose.

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CanAm Chevelle Club
700R4 Basics
700R4 Basics W/pics
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good thinking......

Ok, couple questions on the ball bearing method. My primaries are 1 7/8", would I use this size ball bearing or one slightly smaller? Also, how should I go about pushing this through the headers? I was thinking about drilling a hole through it and attaching a metal wire through it. Anythign better/easier?

anyone? anyone?

obviously it has to be small enough to go into the tube..duh...

Give it up and use the nail gun.

xntrik... Thats funny... But basicly right also where are you going to find a ball bearing that size anyhow...? Go with his idea (the nail gun) and be done with it...


Sometimes the better mouse trap is sold out...

You might want to try a trailer hitch ball, they come in most header sizes.. 1 7/8,, 2.0" 2 1/8" etc.... weld a chain on to it so you can pull it if it gets stuck. heat the area up cherry red and work the ball through it....

I have herd of people using compressed air to pop the dents out also... You would need to block both ends of the header. and then heat the area cherry red and add like 100 or 120 lbs of air....

Keith

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K-Star Automotive
Performance Engines
It's better to have a gun and not need it, then need a gun and not have it.

Oil well pump balls come in sizes that big. Pump repair shops generate buckets full of them every day. Finding the ball isn't a big problem, it is shoving it through the dented pipe (usually at a curve) I have a problem getting my beady little mind around. Are the headers welded or totally mandrel bent? Either way, there will be natural not-round sections of pipe that the ball would have to pass. I can't envision this working - anyone ever try it?

Boy that sounds like a FUBAR looking for a place to happen.... LOL

The method I'd try would be the quenching method. The dent has caused the metal to stretch so ideally if you could reverse the stretch by shrinkage then you're in business. One at a time, get the dents cherry red with an oxy/acetylene flame and then quench the dented area with a large rag that's soaked and dripping with cold water. That causes the metal to shrink back close to its original shape. You'll need to do it several times but you'd see the effects with each pass you do. It goes without saying that you'll need heavy welding gloves to do the job with a level of safety. I witnessed a skillful guy where I once worked remove large dents and distortions from diff housing tubes in that manner. The diffs were demaged in car collisions.

I'm with cold knock, I've had to dent every set I've owned.

I have found that "new", application specific, Hooker Headers fit every time. However, back when I bought used swap meet headers (when I was broke most of the time) seems like the headers never fit. Welding, bending and denting were the norm. Another installment of you get what you pay for.

K-Star, using the "pump them up with air method" is one of the most dangerous things I have heard in quite some time. Capping off the header, pumping it up with air (along with the gas fumes) and then heating the whole deal with a torch? Come on, sounds like a cook book for making a bomb. You might need to lean on your "Jesus Saves" moto quicker than you had expected!

So many ways to get hurt, so little time.

if you can't afford or just just don't want to buy a stud welder, you can actually use a real nail & weld it in the middle of the dent & use heat/slide hammer/visegrips or whatever. it works.
robert.

go to any paint and body shop ask the bodyman how much would he charge to pull that dent if it is in a easy spot he might just say give me 5 or 10 bucks if you lived in texas city tx i would do it for you free to help you out thanks steve