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Old 06-05-2006, 09:37 PM
72NOVA454
 
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Removing Holley Choke Tower

anybody ever cutoff a Holley Choke Tower? I have no problem spending $100 for a new Holley main body without a choke tower but if I can easily and successfully remove the choke tower from my existing Holley 750 model 4160 carb for free why not do it. I don't use a choke, I don't need a choke. It's just a restriction for me and the top of the choke tower is too close to the lid of my air cleaner assembly. It's causing problems.

Is this something worth trying or am I just being stupid?

thanks.

Lee

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Old 06-05-2006, 09:48 PM
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Everone used to mill em off back in the early 70s and some still do. Its not hard to do as its only cast. The best way is on a bridgeport,but ive taken a band saw and finished it with a die grinder and a carbide followed up with rolls and finally used the cheap mans diechromate,Pagan gold touch up paint.
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Old 06-06-2006, 11:30 AM
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I did numerous ones with a hack saw, file and emory paper.

Tape the air bleeds to keep small debris from getting in them.

You can remove wall between the primaries and secondaries too.
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Old 06-06-2006, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryblack
I did numerous ones with a hack saw, file and emory paper.

Tape the air bleeds to keep small debris from getting in them.

You can remove wall between the primaries and secondaries too.
interesting: isnt the choke tower part of the wall between the primaries and secondaries? so it was no problem then right? I'm trying to decide if removing the choke tower would give me the same performance as purchasing a new main body from Holley or Proform with the choke tower already removed. It the answer is basically yes, then I will go ahead and do the surgery and save myself $100, otherwise I don't mind spending $100 for a new "towerless" main body if there would be a performance increase.

Your thoughts?
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Old 06-06-2006, 11:58 AM
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I noticed just enough difference to make the time and effort worth it. Small increase in vacuum and response. The time and effort was free. It takes 1 to 2 hours. More than anything it makes it LOOK more race oriented.

I just cut the tower flush with the air cleaner base level and left the stud tower alone. This left the some of the wall between the primaries and secondaries intact. A good dremel tool will make short work of that part if you want.

I would not pay $100 unless you are competitively racing and need the additional 1 or 2 hp.
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Old 06-06-2006, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryblack
I noticed just enough difference to make the time and effort worth it. Small increase in vacuum and response. The time and effort was free. It takes 1 to 2 hours. More than anything it makes it LOOK more race oriented.

I just cut the tower flush with the air cleaner base level and left the stud tower alone. This left the some of the wall between the primaries and secondaries intact. A good dremel tool will make short work of that part if you want.

I would not pay $100 unless you are competitively racing and need the additional 1 or 2 hp.
alright then, it's a deal. I will do the surgery on the carb this weekend. I have to figure out the best way to cut that thing off. First I will remove the carb from the car - DUH!!! then I have to figure out using the tools I have what is the best way to do it.

thanks.
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Old 06-06-2006, 12:38 PM
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Turn the body on its side. Then use the aircleaner base as a guide and cut until you touch the center bolt tower and the front air tower. Flip the carb over and repeat on the other side.

Using the front air horn and the center tower as a guide to cut vertically. Move to the other side and you will have 2 "U" shaped pieces to use as conversation pieces.

I like using a 32 tooth blade and going slowly. I use a file to knock down the ridges and progressively smooth the cuts. I use emory paper to fine smooth everything.
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Old 06-06-2006, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryblack
Turn the body on its side. Then use the aircleaner base as a guide and cut until you touch the center bolt tower and the front air tower. Flip the carb over and repeat on the other side.

Using the front air horn and the center tower as a guide to cut vertically. Move to the other side and you will have 2 "U" shaped pieces to use as conversation pieces.

I like using a 32 tooth blade and going slowly. I use a file to knock down the ridges and progressively smooth the cuts. I use emory paper to fine smooth everything.
so your talking about just using a hacksaw blade right? i wonder about using one of those rotozip power tools with a milling bit on it?
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Old 06-06-2006, 12:58 PM
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I've done a few, and I use a hacksaw. It may be a little easy to go further than you intended with the rotozip, as well as the bulk of the machine may get in the way.
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Old 06-06-2006, 01:00 PM
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Yes I was talking about a hack saw blade.

I have a couple of dremel type tools and a roto zip. You will need to have things REALLY, REALLY steady. You would need to clamp the body in a vice or have the tool in some immovable clamp.

I get the impression you will use good judgement. Let me know what cutter you do use.
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Old 06-06-2006, 07:28 PM
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Honestly, I would invest 100$ on the proform main body, very easy to swap and noticeable gains..

2wld4u
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Old 06-06-2006, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wld4u
Honestly, I would invest 100$ on the proform main body, very easy to swap and noticeable gains..

2wld4u
you may be right. I was just in the garage checking out the carb and looking at "exactly" what I would need to do to cut away the choke tower, and how it would look afterwords. Even with the choke tower cut away perfectly, the main body is still not the same as the aftermarket ProForm body. there are differences that appear to me would be noticeable in terms of performance. At this moment (I change my mind every 30 minutes !!) I am leaning towards putting out the $100 and getting a new Proform body. I can also sell the old body on ebay for maybe $20 - $30. So I would really only be spending say $75 for the upgrade and it would be perfect, no cutting and grinding, no second guessing.
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