[Gforce]

I have a 67 camaro im gonna be installing full 1/4 panels,I am looking for as much info and pix as i can on doing this as i have not done this b4.All info and pix will be much appreciated.Thanks

[DrChop]

If possible, sandblast or scrape in the rear wheelhouses and along the underside first, getting as much deadener/undercoating off, and to assess the existing metal better...

Might want to plan on some new inner/outer wheelhouses, or perhaps a wheeltub kit if you wanted the option of a slightly wider tire. Originals will likely be rusty/rotting away...

Get your replacement panels BEFORE doing any cutting. Lay them on over the existing panels and scribe into the original paint where the edges of the new panel stop..

I have found it many times easier, when doing large panel replacements, NOT to start trying to drill out spot welds. You know where your panel edges are, lay out some 2" masking tape on the edges to duplicate how the new panel will fit, then cut out anything INSIDE the 2" tape. This will remove the majority of bad metal and leave you with a 2" narrow panel to worry about, only NOW you can get to the backside easily as well.

Might also try a small chisel or wedge between the panels to help find hidden spot welds. Don't mangle up the inner structure too bad, many times you can just hit the outside of the junk strip with a grinding wheel and buzz thru the outer skin.

Hammer and dolly the inners back into shape after removing the strips, and cleaning the metal from any old paint/undercoat/seam sealer.

Old speaker magnets are like your 3rd, 4th, and 5th hands when replacing large panels, they will usually hold the panels together quite firmly and yet you don't drill any holes in the new panel...

Don't make lap joints where there were none. On the C pillar, for example, if your replacement does not reach the factory seam, cut on your scribe line and the panels are fitted flush. If your panel fits at the factory seam do your joining there, lead solder can be melted out with a propane torch if needed. The idea is to do highly visible seams between panels with flush welds, and if you can get a small section of flattened copper pipe behind it, it'll hold your weld puddle in place.

If you cannot reach the backside and have'nt figured out to use the MIG like a spot-welder in very short bursts to put metal on without blowing holes along a seam, put a backup strip on one side of the joint, and put a speaker magnet on top to hold it in place.

Take your time, put all your welding tacks very far apart, and keep welding tacks in place until all seams are fully welded. The idea is to keep your welds as low-temp as possible to avoid warping the panels.

Drilling 5/16 holes along spot-welded seams in your new panel, then filling the holes with weld until flush, is an acceptable method to replace spot welded panels, and one way not too many think of...

One side at a time, until you have it all welded up, THEN do the other. Camaros depend on the quarter skins for support, don't whack both off at once or the trunk area goes helter-skelter...

Take your time and have FUN. If you need to, take a break or 3. Don't rush the job, or it'll show...

Doc

Doc Chops Garage

[BT61]

Pick up a copy of "How to Restore Your Camaro" from Classic Industries. It has step by step with photos of 1/4 replacement on a 69.

[troy-curt]

Like already stated, cut the old panel short, then whittle the rest of piece by piece. Be real careful around the trunk area as this lip has to be reused. The only finished joint you will have is at the top of the sail fin where the quarter panel meets the top. Have a dozen or so pair of vice grips before you start, and several drill bits. Just take your time. HTH

Good Luck
Troy

[BH69Camaro]

The Sept 93 issue of Musclecar Review has an article with pics on replacing quarters on a '67 Camaro.

If you'd like, I could scan it and send a copy to you.

Brian