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Old 06-29-2009, 08:53 AM
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removing old holley gasket material & couple other holley questions

i'm working on a old holley 1850 and when i split it apart the gaskets all ripped apart and are freaking glued to everything. Anybody got any tips on getting all that old gasket material off, looks like its gonna be a pain in the butt.

question 2:
i flipped the carb over with the shooter off and something fell out of that channel. Its a little metal piece with a needle end. Is that all that goes in the chamber under the accel shooter or is there something else also?

question 3:
when i was removing the metering block one of the locating dowels that locates the metering block on the main body broke off. Can I repair this somehow or do I need to get a new metering block?

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Old 06-29-2009, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkostoj
Anybody got any tips on getting all that old gasket material off
Soaking it in carb cleaner is the easiest way. I recently priced carb cleaner (the "dip" kind, not the spray cans) and like to have f-inf fell out when I saw the price NAPA wanted for the crap!!! It was like $60 or some such BS! Needless to say, I passes. I use that "black Jack" 409-type cleaner for most degreasing, but care must be used if using this on anything except iron. Aluminum and zinc will be damaged if left in it too long, and it MUST be completely rinsed off of every part and orifice it contacts.


Quote:
question 2:
i flipped the carb over with the shooter off and something fell out of that channel. Its a little metal piece with a needle end. Is that all that goes in the chamber under the accel shooter or is there something else also?
That's it. Other model carbs have check balls and weights. Point goes down. Don't forget there's a gasket between the shooter and body.

Quote:
question 3:
when i was removing the metering block one of the locating dowels that locates the metering block on the main body broke off. Can I repair this somehow or do I need to get a new metering block?
All I would do is carefully align the block and gasket, and screw the bowl screws down to hold it in place. As long as you're careful, the alignment will be fine and you need do nothing more.

If you opt for a new block, get one that matches your original one (providing it's correct- they get mixed up after years of being rebuilt and "modified"). The blocks look similar, but can vary greatly in their calibrations.
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Old 06-29-2009, 05:10 PM
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If you opt for a new block, get one that matches your original one (providing it's correct- they get mixed up after years of being rebuilt and "modified"). The blocks look similar, but can vary greatly in their calibrations
Right on man. There are a few good Holley books out there that have all of the Holley numbers, which ones go with what etc etc etc. Post up any and all numbers you find and maybe some of us can help tell you what you need, or if something is amiss. Just a thought.
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Old 06-29-2009, 07:09 PM
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i used the gallon can of carb dip. i payed 21.19 for mine at auto zone.
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Old 06-29-2009, 09:54 PM
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I love the carb dip for cleaning the carb, but it takes too long IMO to soften up glue and gaskets. I go straight for the mechanical fixes; razor blade for the big stuff, and a fine or medium (blue or red) scotch brite pad on my 3" air angle grinder. It will polish up the aluminum, but won't remove much material at all. You really have to linger on one spot to mess it up.

If you do gouge it with the razor, or have doubts about how flat it is, take a piece of glass, lay a 200 grit emery cloth on it, and re-true the surface by sanding it. I like to spray some adhesive on the emery to hold it on the glass. I have several grits all on a shelf for truing up all kinds of stuff including 2-stroke heads, throttle body flanges, etc.
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Old 06-30-2009, 04:56 AM
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carb

I use the spray gasket remover. I actually think it's just paint remover in a spray can. Spray it on, let it sit a few minutes and most will clean off with a wire brush (the little ones that look like tooth brushes).

Keith
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:06 AM
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Since they took out the methylene chloride, etc. from the dip, it's not nearly as good as it was. The spray remover does do a good job, I have a can left over from when it still had DCM in it, the current formulation may still, for that matter.

But the good dip is long gone. I knew when I used the last of my stash (note the date , pre-zip code), that the next that I bought wouldn't be as good. Oh, but I do feel so very safe... Thanks, fedgov- for saving me from myself!
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