Removing Rear Axle Bearings - 1972 Nova - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2006, 07:35 PM
72NOVA454
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: chicago area
Age: 51
Posts: 922
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Removing Rear Axle Bearings - 1972 Nova

Help

I will be upgrading the rearend of my 72 Nova starting November. Amongst the numerous upgrades and tasks include removing and replacing the rear axle bearings and seals. I've never done this. I'm sure it's easy but...... I've seen specialty tools like slide hammers and punches, etc used to remove and press in the new bearings.

Can somebody help me - describe the process please. What are the tricks. I will be removing the entire axle housing from the vehicle. Send some pictures if you have them. I usually rent tools from Advance Auto Parts or AutoZone. they both rent all the popular auto service tools - I'm sure they' ll have whatever I need right?

I have a 10-bolt 8.5" housing - thanks.

Lee

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2006, 08:09 PM
poncho62's Avatar
Out of the Loop Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Streetbeasts links
Last journal entry: at car show
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Hanover, Ontario, Canada
Age: 62
Posts: 16,857
Wiki Edits: 5

Thanks: 20
Thanked 246 Times in 200 Posts
There were 2 types of GM axles....those with the pressed on bearings and the ones with the full floating bearings. I am not sure which you have.

Press on type....You undo the 4 bolts nolding the backing plate to the housing and pull the axle....Like you said a slide hammer may be needed. A piece of chain bolted to the stud works just as well. Bearings are then pressed off and on.

The full floating type has to have "C" clips removed in the rear end to pull the axles. A bolt and a pin has to be removed that retain the "C" clips. You have to be careful because this pin also hold the spider gears in place. The bearings can then be removed and replaced in the ends of the axles.
__________________
Ontario Rodders
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2006, 08:22 PM
Henry Highrise's Avatar
Lost in the 60's
 
Last wiki edit: Removing stuck fasteners Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Dixieland
Age: 69
Posts: 15,189
Wiki Edits: 4

Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
The Nova should have the floating type. You will have to remove the cover from the rear end and remove the cross pin and c-clips that Poncho mentioned...then you can remove the axles.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2006, 12:06 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Shreveport LA
Age: 64
Posts: 5,103
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Put the axle on jack stands and support the front of the center section. Put a drain pan under the center and remove the bottom center cover bolt. It may or may not drain from the bolt hole. If not, remove the cover, leaving the top 3 bolts in, but loose. Pry the bottom of the cover out a little so the oil can drain out. Don't get in your hair or it'll stink for a week. Finish removing the cover and let if drip for a while.

Look for the finger-diameter pinion shaft that runs through the differential carrier (the thing the ring gear is bolted to). At one end of it is the retaining bolt, which runs perpendicular to the shaft through one end. Remove the bolt. It's threaded just under the head, with a smooth shaft extending past the threads for an inch or two.

If you're lucky, the shaft will try to drop out by itself. It may need some persuasion. Try not to turn the axles or carrier too much after the shaft starts coming out, or the spider gears (pinion gears) will slide out of the carrier and you'll pull your stinky hair out trying to get them back in right. Once it's out, push the axles inward far enough so you can remove the C-clips from the inner end. A "magnet-on-a-stick" tool is real handy about now. Once the C-clips are off the axles, you can slide them out.

Use a slide-hammer puller to remove the wheel bearings & seals. They can be a bear if they've been in there for a while, so don't be afraid to bang hard.

Look at the machined surface on each axle where the bearing rides. If it's grooved about as wide as a roller bearing is long (3/8"-1/2"), you probably need to get new axles. I've heard there are aftermarket bearings that ride on an unmolested part of the axle, but I wouldn't use them in a high-performance car.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2006, 07:54 AM
72NOVA454
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: chicago area
Age: 51
Posts: 922
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimfulco
Put the axle on jack stands and support the front of the center section. Put a drain pan under the center and remove the bottom center cover bolt. It may or may not drain from the bolt hole. If not, remove the cover, leaving the top 3 bolts in, but loose. Pry the bottom of the cover out a little so the oil can drain out. Don't get in your hair or it'll stink for a week. Finish removing the cover and let if drip for a while.

Look for the finger-diameter pinion shaft that runs through the differential carrier (the thing the ring gear is bolted to). At one end of it is the retaining bolt, which runs perpendicular to the shaft through one end. Remove the bolt. It's threaded just under the head, with a smooth shaft extending past the threads for an inch or two.

If you're lucky, the shaft will try to drop out by itself. It may need some persuasion. Try not to turn the axles or carrier too much after the shaft starts coming out, or the spider gears (pinion gears) will slide out of the carrier and you'll pull your stinky hair out trying to get them back in right. Once it's out, push the axles inward far enough so you can remove the C-clips from the inner end. A "magnet-on-a-stick" tool is real handy about now. Once the C-clips are off the axles, you can slide them out.

Use a slide-hammer puller to remove the wheel bearings & seals. They can be a bear if they've been in there for a while, so don't be afraid to bang hard.

Look at the machined surface on each axle where the bearing rides. If it's grooved about as wide as a roller bearing is long (3/8"-1/2"), you probably need to get new axles. I've heard there are aftermarket bearings that ride on an unmolested part of the axle, but I wouldn't use them in a high-performance car.
thanks buddy.

and yes, I will be pulling the whole housing out anyway and installing new axles, carrier, ring&pinion etc. these are the original (34 year old) bearings so I imagine they will be tough to get out. I'm just not sure what type of slide-hammer tool to rent. I'll see what they have. Also, what about installing the new bearings? How is that done. How deep to I press/punch them into the axle housing?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2006, 08:03 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Cali
Posts: 994
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
If you've got the differential out you can drive the axle bearings out from the opposite side with a long pipe. I use electrical conduit from Home Depot.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2006, 08:08 AM
72NOVA454
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: chicago area
Age: 51
Posts: 922
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by onovakind67
If you've got the differential out you can drive the axle bearings out from the opposite side with a long pipe. I use electrical conduit from Home Depot.
WOW - DUH!!!!

excellent idea. why didnt I think of that. I've got plenty of steel pipe and conduit around. that's what I'll do. thanks.

what about installing new ones? How far do I "pound" them in?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2006, 10:09 AM
poncho62's Avatar
Out of the Loop Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Streetbeasts links
Last journal entry: at car show
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Hanover, Ontario, Canada
Age: 62
Posts: 16,857
Wiki Edits: 5

Thanks: 20
Thanked 246 Times in 200 Posts
They will borrom out in the pocket that they sit it. You will see it once you get the old ones out.
__________________
Ontario Rodders
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2006, 07:52 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Shreveport LA
Age: 64
Posts: 5,103
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
They make a bearing driver tool, but I just put a chunk of wood between the bearing and a 2# hammer and drive it in that way.

Same with the seal, just put a little sealer on the inside of the axle tube and drive it in lightly until it's flush with the end. Put a little gear lube on the bearings and on the seal surface before you install the axles.

Before you put the rear end back in the car, put it on stands nose down and put some lube in through the back side. For an 8.5" GM, put about 1.5 quarts in, then add the Posi additive if you're using it. Total capacity is around 2 quarts, so you won't over-fill it. Don't forget to top it off through the filler plug after it's installed.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Transmission - Rearend posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
'69 Nova Rear Suspension & Axle stratt134 Suspension - Brakes - Steering 2 08-08-2006 07:38 PM
rear suspension/Welding on Rear Axle redsin Hotrodding Basics 4 05-30-2006 08:25 PM
Help Me Identify the Rear Axle in my project? Bud's 27 T Touring Suspension - Brakes - Steering 7 05-29-2006 10:01 AM
1956 Oldsmobile Rear Axle Ted's37 Transmission - Rearend 7 04-17-2004 08:28 PM
Rear End - 5 bolt axle shafts into 6 bolt rear axle??? Blue Chevy Transmission - Rearend 0 06-07-2002 05:23 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:40 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.