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Old 04-09-2005, 08:51 PM
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Removing Rear Brake Drums

Hey all,

I am tearing down the frame for my '53 Packard, but have come to a road bump. The rear drums are press fit onto the axel and require a hub puller to be removed. I borrowed a puller from a guy at the hardware store (just meet the guy yesterday, and he offered to let me borrow it!!) Well, after bolting the puller to the drum, and tightening it down. I found that 3 of 5 lug holes are stripped !!! This was on the drivers side drum. The passenger side drum has 1 stipped lug hole !!! I am at complete loss at how to pull these drums off. A 3-jaw puller will not work on here either. ANyone have any ideas on how to pull them? Any help is welcome.

Chris

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Old 04-09-2005, 09:47 PM
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stripped holes

You could drill them out, retap to a bigger size, and insert heli coils.
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Old 04-09-2005, 10:17 PM
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????

Are those the ones with the tapered axle ends...??

You can tell if there is a big nut that holds the drum on the axle..

Need just a bit more info on this..

OMT
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Old 04-09-2005, 11:35 PM
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yeah, they do have tapered axels with the big castle nut on the end.

Sadly enough, this is currently the best pic I have of the rear end if it helps any.



Chris

Last edited by Malibucdl; 04-09-2005 at 11:39 PM. Reason: added picture
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Old 04-10-2005, 12:07 AM
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Oh man that can be ugly

Thsi is when I pull out the big guns...those kinds of drums can get stuck and practically welded to the axle...

Can you get a BIG 3 jaw puller..one large enough to catch the outside of the drum..??? since your lugs are stripped this may be your option..Other than that you may have to weld the nuts on the lugs and then cut them off and replace the lug studs...

Loosen the castle nut and leave it on so you have full bearing for the puller..this also helps to prevent damage to the threads on the axle end..

Do you have access to a rosebud torch???...sometimes those hubs need to be heated to help them loosen up..put a bunch of tension on the puller and then heat the hub in the area of the axle...

hopefully the drums are savable...

Bout all I can think of...Sorry

OMT
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Old 04-10-2005, 11:47 AM
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Don't use a puller that pulls on the outside edge of the drum. At best you will warp it, at worst destroy the drum and axle. Where you are in assembly, pull the axle and drum assembly and press the axles out on a press while supporting the center of the drum. Dissasembly can be hard but it can be done.
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Old 04-10-2005, 02:33 PM
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I do have a big 3-Jaw puller, and it has been tried before in the past before I began working on the car. The driverside drum is already warped and should be replaced when I re-assemble the rear end. I will try that one more time. If that doesn't work, I will try welding the studs onto the drum and going that route.

I alreay tried pulling the drum and axel assembly as one, but it seems that the bolts that hold it on also have nuts on the inside of the brake drums, and are spinning.

I am afraid to say it, but this is gonna be ugly. I may wind up replacing either the drums (most likely) and the axels (I pray it doesn't come to that).

Thansk for the help guys, I'll let you know how it turns out later this week. Any more suggestions?

Chris
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Old 05-07-2005, 11:49 PM
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I finally got a much better pic of the rear brake drums. I have not gotten them off because Life keeps getting in the way. Maybe these pics will help you guys help me.

I need to re thread the holes since they got stripped somehow in the cars 52 years on this planet.

If I used the 3 Jaw puller and torch, where should I apply the heat?

Anymore ideas on how to get these things off?

Chris


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Old 05-08-2005, 02:15 AM
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Man that looks like a pain

Owwww..Looks like the backing plates will interfere with applying a 3 jaw puller..looks like they come right out to the edge of the drum..

The nuts at the center need to be removed as that is what holds the hub and drum assembly!

Are any of the holes able to be chased with a tap so you can thread some bolts into them..?? Maybe you can attach a puller that way..??

Heat is applied to the center of the drum, right around the area just back of the big nut to expand the hub a bit so it will come unseized so to speak..

Other wise got me as I am running out of ideas..Hope you have source for new drums for that thing..

Now it will come apart...I do know that...just how much work to get to there is the question..I have had to wind up just getting somethng apart and then getting replacements on some of the old stuff I deal with..

Sorry wish I could make it all good..

OMT
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Last edited by OneMoreTime; 05-08-2005 at 09:52 AM. Reason: forgot something
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Old 05-08-2005, 08:48 PM
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I think I would start with grinding the heads off of the bolts that hold the backing plate/retainer. You will then be able to see everything a bit better when everything is appart and bolts are very easy to replace (and should be anyways). You should then be able to get the 3-jaw puller on the thing to get it off or use a hydraulic press.
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Old 05-08-2005, 09:35 PM
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Brute force works....

I had those tapered axles on my old Volvo 122s....They suck....
My memory is I held a 25 pound sledge against one side of the center hub boss, and whacked the boss on the other side with my 10 pound sledge....
Works on stuck tie rod ends, too....
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Old 05-08-2005, 10:04 PM
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A 3 Jaw will bite on the back of the drum, there is enough of a lip on it to get a solid grip. I will have to chase the holes this week on my off days to see how well they will rethread.

I can get new (reconditioned) drums through Kanter for $66 a piece, which isn't too bad. Looks like I will be getting new drums by the time this is over with. Guess it comes with the territory.

Chris
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