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Read this thread. Deadbodyman shows how to make a tool to remove door skin. There is some really good info in the thread. Start with post #15.
What is the best method to treat surface rust in doors John L |
| The Following User Says Thank You to John long For This Useful Post: | ||
John68040 (07-10-2012) | ||
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try to peel up the bottom and fix it without taking off the skin. I'd try to peel it back just on the bottom around where you'll be fixing it and have a look to see if it will be possible to fix it that way, if not then plan on the bigger repair. Seems like a
2x4 clamped to the top surface would help while peeling the flange up so the skin doesn't distort. You can also just cut away the flange and fabricate a piece that looks like the flange and reweld it back on after the door frame is fixed. I dunno... just shooting around idears. |
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If I don't remove it, I'll have to peel the skin back and distort it to be able to weld the inner frame. I figure I'll just deskin the door and have the frame sandblasted (then epoxy it) while I'm at it. I have a couple other spots to fix on the door skin which would be easier with it off. A redneck shoved bolts in the seam and ran weld over it to keep the doors shut for a circle track. The door I needed was the only straight panel on the car.
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Instead of removing the skin to repair the door shell, why don't you remove the area on the door shell to repair and weld it back in leaving the skin intact?
Post a photo of the damage and lets see if this can be done. Brian |
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I can't get one tonight, but it seems easiest to remove the skin. I'll try to get one tomorrow when I'm at the shoip. It's mainly the bottom edge of the frame where it touches the skin, and if I weld it with the skin touching then the weld will penetrate to the skin.
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When I closed my bodyshop back in the late 80's I threw away a brand new drivers door for a pinto. Still kicking my butt. Really should have saved it.
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door skin tool
I copied a door skin too years a go, and haven't seen it since I've moved twice. I forget where i saw it being used. I started with a steel block, I think about 1 X 1 by 2 in long, I cut a slot 3./4 deep length wise just wide enough to slip over a door edge . I rounded the edges by slipping the slot carefully over the back side of my 6 X 48 belt sander and carefully deburring the edges. I drilled a couple 1/2 in holes to intersect the slot. Then I cut 1/4 and 3/16 slots 90* to the long slot. The next part is to take a couple old screwdriver, that fits the short slot, sharpen the end then heat it up and bend it to 90*. You slip the tool over the door edge , then hook the screwdriver blade edge on the edge and pry back, that lifts the edge of the skin, work along the door to bring the edge up. That tool would work where the tile nippers wouldn't fit.
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![]() ![]() ![]() Here's what I've got to fix. Quote:
Quote:
This one that John long linked to seems like it might not fit, but I could probably make one that would work in the tight space I have. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...p;d=1339970760 |
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Never used them so I don't know if they are worth 6 bucks or not.
Harbor Freight Reviews - Door Skin Removal Pliers |
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that's totally a good candidate for a lower skin job or to just peel it back where needed. Peeling back the whole door is a lot of work. If you have a metal brake you're in business. the rest of the door inside is probably still good and if you see anything above the bottom of the door it's probably superficial and just on the surface due to gravity and water that will rest on the bottom of the door as opposed to settling on the side of the door above the bottom.
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Or cut the sections of the shell out as I originally suggested. There is absolutely no reason to remove that skin if you can't get a replacement. Just cut the shell, remove it out from under the skin and fab a new piece and sand blast and repair the skin right at that spot only.
Brian |
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in other words, fabricate the flange on the backside of the door where needed?
The other day I did a lower door skin that I fabricated and on the other side I did just that...cut a chunk of the flange out, replaced a piece on the inners and welded a piece back to look like the flange. I also didn't cut it all the way at the bottom cause the metal was ok there so I didn't have to file it down or worry about it changing the gap to the rocker. Saved soo much time doing it that way. Good call. Funny, I'm actually editing a video on the lower door skin and left out the footage of the repair of the flange being cut out on the other side but after this thread I will probably go back and insert it into the video. |
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Quote:
Fab the new inner piece, weld it in then cut a small strip of metal to replace the piece of the folded lip of the skin. Brian |
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