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Old 10-05-2010, 09:31 PM
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removing runs in clear coat???

hey guys, I just painted up my ride yesterday, it came out smooth as glass, best job i've ever done, no sanding at all needed, but in some spots around groves, or channels i got a couple small runs in the clear,(none in paint) to remove... wet sand with 2000 or 1500, but always end with 2000, then polish it after i sand it out? all im going to do is polish the entire vehicle in a couple days, so just sand the run itself, and polish with rest of ride?? any advice and tips will be appreciated, im trying not to mess this job up. Thanks.
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Old 10-05-2010, 09:49 PM
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If they're small it should be okay, but sanding runs out depends on the clear itself.

My R-M Diamont is stable within a day or two, in warm temps, and once it is sanded off, it's gone forever.

At the other extreme is a clear like PPG Concept. If you get a big run, it holds the solvent and is swollen. If you sand it off, it will eventually release those trapped solvents, and actually sink in! I talked to a guy who uses it a lot, and he said just let it dry for a couple months, then sand it off. What the.... !
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:37 AM
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true,just sand it off after you are sure that it is completely dry. Maybe 2 weeks is enough..
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Old 10-06-2010, 07:17 AM
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try this cool trick

A retired bodyman showed me a cool trick. Take a single sided razor blade. Cover both tips with masking tape. Back blade over the run. It removes the run without giving you the hollow spot that sanding does. I tried it and it worked great.
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:44 PM
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Runs are thicker so they stay softer, they will sand different than the
surrounding, harder clear.
It's best to level them roughly as soon as possible then let them harden up
a couple of days to catch up with the surrounding clear hardness.
Then finish sand and buff.
When they're soft, they tend to telegragh through no matter how much
you sand them.
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Old 10-06-2010, 01:30 PM
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The single edge razor blade works great, just round off the sharp corners of the blade before working on that run though. Shave it off a little at a time holding the razor blade at 90 degrees to the panel.

Vince
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Old 10-06-2010, 01:53 PM
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thanks for the info guys, i still gotta run the exhaust, and mount the body and all that, so it'll be about a month before i finish sand and polish, but im thinking about getting those runs out soon, i might try the razor blade in a week or 2 when im off of work again.
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Old 10-07-2010, 05:39 AM
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The trick to sanding a run is sanding only the run...taking most of it down with a razor works fine if its completely dry all the way through ...I like using a small 1/2"x1/2" x2"L piece of hard wood as a block it planes the run like a wood planer..if its soft I start with 600 when it gets close I do 1200 and work up to 2000 ...you should get the majority of it out right away and let it dry more before finishing and polishing,for the reasons above...
BTW, they're called "flow indicators" not runs..
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Old 10-07-2010, 11:56 AM
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I use the razor blade method, but I bow the blade a little bit and pull the blade across the run, bowed side leading the cut. I cut a little and let it sit a day then cut a little more unless it has had a week or so in the sun to dry the run out. I'll then follow up with a little 1500grit wet on a cut down stir stick as a sanding block. Good luck on the project. They're also called signing our work.
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Old 10-07-2010, 12:29 PM
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put a piece of 2 inch tape over the run . then hard block with 320 wet. you will cut through the tape and only sand the run. when done go over it with finer grits with the tape removed and polish .

blades work real good....... they can also create a massive repair .
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Old 10-15-2010, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
blades work real good....... they can also create a massive repair .
So true... one must be very careful or you can make a mess of it.
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Old 10-15-2010, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
put a piece of 2 inch tape over the run . then hard block with 320 wet. you will cut through the tape and only sand the run. when done go over it with finer grits with the tape removed and polish .

blades work real good....... they can also create a massive repair .
Shine, leave it to you to inject common sense and a logical method to this thread. Thanks man.
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Old 10-16-2010, 09:07 PM
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I'm gonna have to try that one.
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Old 10-17-2010, 06:50 AM
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Mirror glaze sells a little stone block that works real good.
They come in different grits and you soak them in water
to use wet.
They can be trued up by running them on sandpaper.
They work well because they're rock hard and you can feel
the run as you're sanding, avoiding the surrounding area.
They'll surprise you how well they work.

http://www.meguiars.com/estore/produ...ectionID=37301
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Old 10-17-2010, 06:59 AM
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Man,that sounds like a good product JC...I wish all this cool stuff was out when I started painting...
Hows it hold up, as far as clogging goes ? Can it be cleaned ?
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